Daffodils are beautiful and exceptional flowers with a bright yellow or dazzling white color and are incredibly easy to grow. With a little effort and a few simple tricks, you can have a garden full of these flowers, which are a clear sign of spring!
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Preparing the Ground
Step 1. Choose a spot in full sun
Daffodils grow best when exposed to sunlight, although a partially or slightly shaded location is also acceptable. If they are completely devoid of sun they may not flower for a couple of years after sowing.
Step 2. Check that the soil is rich and well-draining
Daffodils grow in many different types of soil, but ideal is one that is moderately fertile and that you drain properly. Some varieties prefer an alkaline earth; therefore, if you are growing a particular species of narcissus, consult your nursery or garden center for more information.
Step 3. Plant the flowers in the fall
The ideal month to plant them is October, but you can also proceed in early September or later, such as in November. If you live in a colder climate region, you should start planting them 2-4 weeks before the frosts start.
Step 4. Purchase the bulbs when you are ready to plant them
Go to a reputable nursery or garden center and plant the flowers within the week you bought them. the bigger the bulbs, the better. Do not buy discounted or promotional offers, as they may not have the flower inside.
- Never buy or plant bulbs that are too soft, as it means they are rotten or suffering from some other disease.
- Two-pointed bulbs produce two stems.
- The small ones may not bloom in the first year.
Part 2 of 3: Plant the Bulbs
Step 1. Dig holes or channels
You can of course plant each bulb individually, but most gardeners typically grow a row of 3-8 bulbs at a time; however, feel free to create the shape you want. You can make straight or long rows to give the garden a tidy look, otherwise you can arrange the flowers in a circular way to get a more "natural" look.
Step 2. Provide ideal conditions for the bulbs to grow
Spread a small handful of fertilizer in each hole or in each row and be sure to space the bulbs properly; it does not matter if you are planting them individually or in rows: always check that they are about 8-15 cm apart.
Plant a single variety of flower for each hole or row
Step 3. Plant the bulbs
Insert them at a depth equal to 3 or 4 times their size; if you have chosen small daffodils such as "Tête à Tête", place them 10 cm below the ground, while if you have chosen a larger variety you must bury it at least 15 cm. Make sure the pointed end is facing up.
- If you live in a region with severe winters, make sure that the bulbs are covered with a layer of earth of at least 8 cm.
- If you can't figure out what the tip of the bulb is, put it on its side.
Step 4. Cover the bulbs and water them immediately after planting them
Keep the area moist during the growing period, until about three weeks after the flowering phase. After three weeks from the moment the flowers appear, you need to stop wetting them.
Step 5. Leave them undisturbed
Although in certain regions daffodils develop roots in the fall and foliage in the winter, the flowers and buds are not seen until the following spring. Trust that daffodils are working hard to develop and leave them undisturbed for them to thrive.
Part 3 of 3: Taking Care of the Flowers
Step 1. Fertilize the soil if necessary
If the bulbs are not growing well in the spring, you need to add a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen but high in potassium. Remember that you may not see great results in the first year, but ask the nursery for more details or consider planting new ones if the problem persists.
Step 2. Don't cut too many flowers
While it is obviously possible to cut them off to keep them indoors or sell them to other people, keep in mind that if you overdo it, you can compromise the growth of the bulbs in the following years.
Do not place daffodils in the same vase with other flowers, as their sap can cause other varieties to wilt
Step 3. Wait for the plant to die completely before pruning it
Remove only foliage that has turned yellow or has died; if you go too early, you can jeopardize future growths.
To proceed safely, do not start pruning until late May or June
Step 4. Protect the plants from pests and diseases
The narcissus fly and bulb mites are the most common insects that affect this flower. If you see them on the plant or if the bulbs feel soft to the touch, keep them in near-boiling water for up to three hours (this method is known as hot water treatment).
- Yellow patches on stems or leaves can be a sign of stem nematodes, parasites that infect the whole plant and can be killed with hot water treatment.
- If the plant has contracted a fungal infection such as rot and mold, use a fungicide spray and instead treat viral diseases, such as those that produce leaf spots, with a spray insecticide or always with the boiling water method.
