Building a surfboard requires a lot of patience, precision, and, of course, the right equipment. This is a long and tiring process. On the other hand, the reward of a totally customized surfboard made to your needs is worth the hard work.
Steps
Step 1. Choose a work space that is appropriate and that can withstand permanent damage
You need a space that is large and well ventilated.
- Working outdoors is best for ventilation, but an indoor space with three well-placed fluorescent lamps can show flaws in your table that you may notice sooner.
- This is a weather dependent project if you work outdoors. Know that you will not be able to work in rain, snow or strong wind.
- It would be a good idea to allocate a room solely for the construction of the table; for a short board you will need a room of at least 5x3m, and a couple of meters longer to build a larger board.
Step 2. Write down all the measurements you want the final product to have
It will depend on your intentions and the ability to ride the waves you want to get from the board.
It would be a good idea to create a cardboard template with these exact measurements and place it against the wall so that you can refer to it often
Step 3. Create a template
The easiest way to create a model is to draw a pre-existing board and, if necessary, change according to your measurements.
- Spread the plywood on the floor, freaking out over the board. Make sure the spar (the strip of wood that runs its length through the center) is perfectly aligned with the edges of the plywood.
- Mark the positions with a marker at the tip and tail, the central parts of the board, and then all around making each point parallel to the previous one, so that the shape of the board is accurate. This template will be the shape of your board, so be very careful not to move the board or plywood. Be absolutely precise in making the marks.
- Put on some safety glasses, turn on the jigsaw, and very carefully cut along the points to create your surfboard silhouette.
Step 4. Choose a basic shape for the surfboard
You can choose from infinite shapes, lengths, weights and different densities, as well as a different choice of foam or wood. You can also order custom ones.
- The type of shape you need depends on how you ride the waves. If you like riding small ones, a lower density will suit you (if you don't mind replacing it every now and then). The denser the board, the longer it will last.
- EPS foam is often referred to as a good choice for making a board, being a strong and durable material, yet less dense than polyurethane foam.
Step 5. Place the shape on the work table with the bottom side up
Place your template making sure it lies completely flat on the side member. Using a thick pencil, trace the outline of the template on the shape from bow to stern. Turn the shape over and retrace the shape to the top side.
Step 6. Cut the excess foam (or wood) from the template with the jigsaw
be sure to leave 2-3 cm of excess from the surface of the board; it will give you the space to form it without catastrophic errors.
Cut with extreme caution, especially when cutting around the forward spar
Step 7. Place the empty shape between the stops on the work table
Set the sander to a depth of 2mm and very gently level (stern to bow) the bottom of the board. Turn it over and smooth out the table cover. Sand just enough to reach the softest foam under the hard surface.
When you get close to the nose, it will become difficult to use the electric sander; and it will be time to use a hand plane, large or finger sized, to be more precise
Step 8. Shape the curves of the edges using the large or small hand plane
Approximately reach the shape you want, and then leave the plane alone so as not to overdo it.
Step 9. Perfect the shape by using the wire stitch with both hands along the edges, moving from bow to stern
The back edge bow should be a sharp corner, while the front 3/4 should be rounder.
Step 10. Cover the bottom of the board shape with approximately 170g of fiberglass cloth
Using well-sharpened scissors, shorten the cloth around the shape making sure to leave about 2 inches of extra cloth on the board. Cut the cloth into "V" shapes where the board curves, so you can fold it at the edges.
Step 11. Mix 800ml of resin with its catalyst (read the proportions for your specific product on the label)
Step 12. Pour the surfboard resin mix onto your board, on top of the fiberglass cloth
Starting from the center of the table, use the window cleaner to work the resin into a sort of 8-shape along the entire central body of the table. When you reach the edges, spread the resin out and over the rails to secure the fiberglass. The resin should take about 5-6 minutes to cool, so timing is important. Make sure the entire cloth is evenly covered and secured to the shape. Leave any excess parts there (it will soon be covered anyway), but make sure there are no lumps or leaks.
Step 13. Let the resin set completely for approximately one day, then repeat on the other side
Add another 130ml layer of fiberglass cloth to the blanket for added strength.
Step 14. Mark the positioning of the fins based on your measurement diagram
Cut six 12x5 cm pieces of fiberglass cloth and attach them to the board with paper tape.
Step 15. Wet the entire fiberglass string so that it is completely wet (except the potion in your hand) with 100ml of resin and catalyst mix
Squeeze out half of the table resin using your gloved hand. Immediately place the string along the fin marks and stretch it 2 cm beyond the mark. Cut the string and repeat for all marks.
Step 16. Place the six pieces of fiberglass cloth at the base of each side of the fins immediately after placing the string
Smooth the resin against the base of the fins so that the cloth holds it in place. Remove any excess resin lumps with the window cleaner and leave the resin on for 1 day.
Step 17. Mix 1 liter of hot resin and catalyst
Pour onto the board, fin side up, spreading it with a wide brush until the entire surface (including fins) is covered. Brush off excess lumps and drops with the brush until it stops dripping, then let the board dry for 3 hours. Turn it over and repeat on the other side.
Step 18. Dig a hole for the rope dowel, using a drill with a 35mm diameter bit
The hole you dig should be about 6 to 8 cm from the stern, near the spar. Use a small knife to scoop out the fiberglass and foam until the plug is level with the blanket. Mix 100ml of hot resin and catalyst and pour a small amount into the hole. Place the plug in the hole and fill with resin to secure it. Remove excess resin with a brush and let it dry until it solidifies.
Step 19. Sand the bottom of the board using an electric sander until any flaws (bumps and bumps) go away, along with the shiny layer
You will need to sand a little by hand during this step. A fine textured sandpaper is the most advisable.
Don't sand too much; you will damage the board. If this happens, use some resin and fiberglass cloth to repair the damage, then re-sand it to smooth out the defects
Step 20. Wet some sandpaper and sand the entire board until it is shiny again
Without this extra step to sandpaper, your surfboard would cause irritation and itchiness from rubbing with your skin
Step 21. Let your board rest 3 days for the resin to set completely and finish the process
Advice
Check the prices of the necessary tools. It takes a lot of equipment to build a surfboard, so make sure you have the funds to do it
Warnings
- Always wear latex gloves when working with resin.
- Always wear safety glasses when working with saws and powders of all kinds.
- Don't let the hot resin come into contact with your skin.
- Always wear a mask when sanding.