Some good tips on how to polish antique furniture. They will allow you to do this job like a pro without damaging the value of the piece. And your investment will be safe.
Steps
Step 1. Make sure you don't remove the patina from an old and expensive piece
What you don't need is to turn a 1,000 euro table into a 100 euro table with a simple polish.
Step 2. Before you begin, always read and interpret the instructions on the labels of the products and solvents you use and work in a well-ventilated area
The fumes can cause dizziness and even death when used in an enclosed area. You will also receive useful advice from the hardware store clerk, regarding the materials needed for these steps.
Step 3. Washing or exfoliation?
Decide whether or not you want to remove the old polish or if a good clean is enough. Maybe a coat of polish will restore the furniture to its original luster. If you are cleaning a piece that hasn't been painted, a pumice-based cleaner smeared with a toothbrush to soak into the crevices is ideal. Once cleaned up, you will understand better what you are working with.
In many cases you can save yourself the trouble by arranging only a part of the whole, for example the front drawer and the top of the table or desk or maybe just the armrests and the seat of the chair and then rejuvenate the rest of the piece
Step 4. Exfoliation / Paint Removal:
always use rubber gloves and a face mask when exfoliating. Pour in a lot and don't brush back and forth. With a single pass, dose a nice layer. The exfoliant will form a skin, like boiling milk. Place plastic bags or newspaper on top to keep the exfoliant from drying out. Always place the piece you are working on on a horizontal surface, so you will also avoid doing too much all at once. Put masking tape on the back, handles, and locks so the exfoliant doesn't run on it.
Step 5. Wait for the exfoliant to do its job
Until you can scrub with your finger (but without scratching), the exfoliant is not ready to be removed. If the piece has a notch, leave it on for longer on those areas.
Step 6. Remove it
Periodically take a look under the plastic to see if the exfoliator is doing its job. If the previous polishing layer is thick, you will need to apply a second coat of exfoliant. When the polish has finally softened, scrape it off with an old credit card or scraper, even if the credit card is less likely to damage the wood.
Step 7. Washing:
when the exfoliator has softened the finish, scrape off the can and wash with the right solvent or water. It is very important to read the instructions to understand which washing liquid is best to use. Scrub with a stiff brush and some wood shavings or even clean hamster litter! This way you will clean and dry the piece also around the notches and balusters.
If the cabinet is veneered, be careful when using water not to lift the veneers. When cleaning a piece of furniture it is best to try to bring the original surface back to light and not create a new one
Step 8. Sanding:
to remove light scratches, which is what you should do, use very thin sandpaper. As a beginner, the thinner the card, the longer it will take you to fail. The 120 C sanding roller for example will do just fine. For removing any residual exfoliant and preparing the wood to accept polishing, 220 is great. You can also use felt to sand various shapes and moldings. Shape it and cover it with sandpaper.
Important information about sandpaper: 120 refers to grit. The lower the number the more abrasive the paper
Step 9. Tint:
your best bet is to purchase the leading brand of pigmented wood dyes that color quickly, formulated to develop and accentuate the grain of any wood. Brush the dye, leave it on and scrub to dry. Always use gloves and a mask during the process.
You can mix various colors to achieve the desired shades, for example by adding mahogany to walnut for a reddish brown, or ebony to walnut for a deep dark brown
Step 10. Place all used rags in a suitable airtight container. Do not leave them on a bench in bulk, because spontaneous combustion could cause them to ignite! If you don't have a container, place them open to dry, preferably outside. Any rag that contains solvents is extremely dangerous.
Step 11. Polishing:
now the piece is ready to be polished again. For simple work, the best method is to polish with a rag. It can also be done on polyurethane polishes for optimal protection. Apply the polish with a soft cloth until it feels like the furniture can't get any more, then wipe to dry.
Wait 24 hours and give it a light coat of sandpaper (320) then pass a second coat. You can do this as many times as you want, but three or four should be enough. Start with a bright polish and finish with a partially matte one. Your furniture is ready to make a good impression again in its corner at home.
