Nothing compares to the unmistakable look of antique wood, but no one has the time to wait for furniture and accessories to age naturally. In this case, a technique is used to "antiquing" the surface in order to instantly obtain a worn look, completely transforming an object in a matter of minutes. There are several methods you can put into practice, but the basic principles are always the same: a combination of blows, bumps and pressure to make the wood look like an old family heirloom rather than a cheap reproduction.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Create a General Wear
Step 1. Sand the edges
Go over the corners of the cabinet with a sheet of sandpaper. Go for the very fine-grained one by applying variable pressure in the different areas to give a more natural worn look; alternatively, use different sheets of different grain to slightly change the characteristics of the surfaces.
- You can also decide to sand the flat areas, especially the smooth and shiny ones that reveal the true age of the material.
- A few strategic shots of sandpaper give a brand new wood an antique look.
Step 2. Wear down the wooden planks with gravel
Simply place one on the ground and cover it completely with a layer of crushed stone; put another on top and slowly walk on it from one end to the other. Your weight makes the pebbles penetrate into the boards leaving characteristic marks and with a random distribution.
- Don't just walk, rock back and forth, jump and do other similar movements based on the level of wear you want to achieve.
- Remember to flip the boards over and treat the opposite sides of both as well, if they are visible once assembled.
- This remedy saves time when working with raw wood in place of furniture or other pre-assembled items.
Step 3. Chop the wood with a blunt object
Take a hammer, screwdriver, heavy chain, high-heeled shoe or other similar object and use it to hit the entire surface. the impact should leave dents that look like the result of bumps, falls and blows received over the years.
- If you want to get as realistic a result as possible, chains are particularly useful, as the links strike at a different angle with each impact.
- Be careful not to overdo it; too many dents can raise the suspicion that the object has been artificially antiqued.
Step 4. Use screws to make woodworm holes
Insert 5-6 screws into a thin wooden stick so that the tip goes through the other side; repeatedly hit the piece of furniture you want to antique with this "iron club" by varying the strength, in order to create a series of holes that resemble those left by insects.
Change the position of the screws on the stick or hit at different angles to prevent the holes from all respecting the same arrangement
Step 5. Chisel the edges with a chisel
Place the flat tip of this tool (or awl) diagonally to the wood and tap it with a hammer. Move through the material hitting here and there; remember to carve the wood at irregular intervals.
- If you want the object to look very worn, insert the tool deeper and remove entire pieces of material.
- Recreate crevices that give a lot of personality to wooden accessories, especially pieces that take a lot of load, such as door frames, desks, coffee tables and beams.
Method 2 of 3: Using Paint
Step 1. Lightly sand the wood
Before you go headlong into the task of antiquing the item, rub an emery block or fine-grit sandpaper all over the material. In this way, you open the pores of the wood and allow the paint to penetrate, obtaining a lasting finish that, ironically, will not be affected by the action of time.
- Smooth with gentle circular motions starting from the center portion and gradually moving outward.
- Fold the sandpaper over the clean edges and slide it across the surface with smooth movements.
Step 2. Paint the piece with a light color
The ideal is a shade such as white, ivory or opal; do not overdo it with the first coat of paint, you just have to apply a little color and not achieve full coverage.
- Smear the base coat on corners, crevices and any hard-to-reach areas using the tip of the brush.
- Light colors are more visible under other layers of paint, making the effect more noticeable.
Step 3. Let the first coat dry completely
Store the item in a cool, dry place; the process takes about 8-10 hours, but it is recommended to wait up to 24 hours, so that the paint has had a long time to settle. When the color is dry, you can move on to the next stage of the project.
- Do not touch the painted wood as it dries;
- If you'd rather see natural veins rather than a layer of color, skip this step and begin the "aging" phase right away.
Step 4. Apply a second layer of color
Choose a brighter one that contrasts with the lighter base and apply it all over the object; apply several coats until you reach the intensity you want and the surface looks as smooth as you want.
- Change the direction of the strokes to let the color penetrate into thin cracks and other uneven areas.
- To highlight the antiqued look, go over the final layer with a pastel, faded hue, such as a brick red, dusty yellow, or robin's egg color.
Step 5. Rub the paint with a wet rag
Dampen a soft kitchen cloth or sponge and squeeze it to remove excess liquid; then use it to blend the color while it is still slightly sticky to the touch. This way, you expose the lightest layer of paint which creates the illusion that the piece has been repainted over the years.
- Work slowly and rub in the color applying minimal pressure to avoid removing too much in one go.
- If you accidentally remove more paint than you want, simply apply another fresh coat and start over.
- For an even more noticeable result, you can sand the surface with very fine sandpaper.
Method 3 of 3: Apply the Topcoat
Step 1. Leave the wood as it is
If you prefer an element to have a rustic look, you may decide not to paint it at all. A few nicks and dings are ideal for this project, especially if you're using a piece of reclaimed wood that's already a little worn.
If you decide to continue with the treatment, apply a layer of clear varnish with the brush for the final finishing touches
Step 2. Color the material
Dip a soft-bristled brush or the corner of a clean rag into the liquid impregnator and dab it all over the surface. Diffuse the pigment until it is evenly distributed by applying successive layers, if necessary; remember to choose a shade that matches the natural grain of the material you are working with and that goes well with the finished product.
- For example, an intense chestnut or mahogany color makes the dresser look as though it has been handled for generations, while more subtle shades can be used to achieve a "weather-worn" effect on patio furniture and outdoor structures.
- The right primer hides the sloppy color of the brand new wood and accentuates the wear marks you have made giving the item a timeless look.
Step 3. Ruin the finish to further age the material
As soon as you have applied the primer, use a dry rag to scrub the wet areas and remove the excess pigment; what remains penetrates into the veins underlining the surface characteristics, while appearing faded.
- For more intense shades, allow the product to soak into the wood for several minutes before scrubbing.
- It is better to add more impregnator a little at a time until you get the desired effect rather than overdoing it and trying to remove it later by any means.
Step 4. Protect the aged finish with a final coat of clear varnish
Brush an even layer of lacquer or polyurethane over the surface and let it dry overnight before applying another coat; this layer protects the wood from dust, scratches and atmospheric elements, preserving all the modifications you have made.
Use a water repellent product on pieces that are to be used or displayed outdoors
Step 5. Wait for the top coat to dry for 4-6 hours
Wait until the paint or polyurethane is no longer tacky before moving, assembling, or otherwise handling the piece. Patience is rewarded with a strong and durable finish; afterwards, you can enjoy the rustic elegance of your new but old item!
Clear coatings sometimes need up to 4 weeks to fully "cure"; meanwhile, items that are outdoors are worth storing indoors to prevent moisture from interfering with the process
Advice
- Hardware stores, lumber yards and landfills are perfect places to look for reclaimed wood to use for this project.
- Any changes you make to the surface are man-made, so brand new lumber gets as good an aged look as old materials that have lost their luster.
- Buy used furniture from an antique shop or flea market and bring it back to life with a combination of colors and surface treatments.
- Look for wood that has unique natural characteristics such as knot holes, stained streaks, wrinkled areas, and other eye-catching patterns. these peculiarities make the piece stand out even after having aged and colored it.
- Keep at least a piece of scrap wood on hand, as well as paints and primers, to try out various aging techniques before practicing them on the actual cabinet.
