A central air conditioning (AC) system is a wonderful thing - but it's not always practical. For example, you might have another building to air condition, or a refurbished garage, or an attic where the heat breaks out. You could use windows, but this is a bulky solution that reduces the light by 50%. The alternative? An air conditioner in the wall! It's quiet, efficient, and it's going to be so cool!
Steps
Step 1. Choose where to install the AC
Avoid doing this on electrical or electronic equipment, in order not to create problems with condensation that can form on very humid days.
Expect a height of 30 to 150 cm. from the floor to prevent dust from clogging the filter and condensation from forming in the ceiling
Step 2. Locate the wall posts
Use a device to find the posts, inspect the baseboard for screws, or tap the wall with your knuckles - the sound changes from empty to full at the posts
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Trace the wall with a pencil at the uprights.
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Make a rough sketch of the AC unit on the wall, in order to minimize the number of uprights to be removed.
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Step 3. Clear the area
Remove the molding above and below the opening point.
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Remove the drywall between the uprights by first marking the inside of the uprights with a razor blade.
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With a hammer or with your hand, using a glove, knock down some wall, enough to check if there are cables or other elements that can be damaged by a saw.
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A blade works great on drywall, minimizing dust, and the risk of damaging electrical wiring and pipes that may be present. To use the blade, make more tracks in the wall. There is no need to cross the entire wall - a deep trace from half to 3/4 of the thickness of the wall is sufficient. A sharp blow with the gloved hand is, therefore, enough to knock down the wall along the tracks.
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Alternatively, you can saw the drywall by cutting as close as possible to the side of the studs. A drywall hand saw reduces dust considerably. If you are using a Sawzall or similar tool, an assistant with a vacuum cleaner can practically eliminate the dust that forms as you trace.
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Remove the insulation.
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Remove the central uprights, if necessary to fix the AC unit.
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Step 4. Report the dimensions of the AC unit or unit enclosure on the external wall
Arrange the tube for the unit so that the rope is positioned just below the wire of a sleeper, cladding element, or cross section, where it will be more aesthetically acceptable (or at least less unsightly)
Step 5. Open the hole for the outside of the unit
Mark the opening to be made using a template, if provided by the AC manufacturer, or draw one.
- If you are drawing the template, use a square and level to make sure the hole is square and level.
- Add 1/4 inch to the height of the opening. This extra 1/4 inch will allow you to tilt the unit slightly outwards, avoiding the collection of condensate and rainwater on the unit and dripping inside the house. If you have a precise point for the top of the opening, add this 1/4 inch at the bottom.
- Create the opening carefully by cutting along the lines with a Sawzall.
Step 6. Build the supports
Cut a sleeper to join the uprights that form the sides of the opening created for the AC unit.
- Team up and install at the base of the compartment created for the AC unit.
- Cut a board to be placed between the sleeper in the floor and the base of the support for the AC installed in the previous step.
- Screw or nail this plank to existing ones. There must be three (possibly four if the unit is very wide) vertical axes in the space under the unit that extend from the base to the part below the horizontal support; one in the middle, one on the right and the other on the left positioned next to the uprights.
Step 7. Build a warhead
It will be the top of the opening pane.
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Cut two or three boards of the same length by dividing one. Cut one or two half-inch strips of plywood of the same size.
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Place the plywood strips between the planks and screw or nail them together. The thickness of the full head should be very close to 3.5 or 5.5 inches, depending on the type of wall.
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Cut two boards equal to the height of the hole. Secure them with nails or screws to the existing uprights in the space for the unit, resting them on the previously installed base support.
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Secure the header on top of the vertical supports installed in the previous step.
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Secure the head with screws or nails.
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Step 8. Add uprights
He places a board, securing it with screws and nails between the header and the left post.
- Adjust the axis with the hammer.
- Repeat for the right upright and for all vertical uprights installed under the unit in the previous steps. If a post has been installed in the middle to support the base, then at least one must be placed at the top. These posts must be tightly fixed. Without tight fastening, cracks can form on the surface of the wall due to the weight.
Step 9. Refine the box
Cut two boards equal to the height of the hole. Make this cut slightly longer (about 1/16 inch) and make sure that by arranging them, they minimize movement and do not reduce the size of the hole. Hammer these boards to either side of the hole, securing them with screws or nails.
Step 10. Install whatever power outlet you need while the wall is open
If the unit is placed high in the wall, consider installing an appropriate switch for the power outlet now, because this will facilitate switching on and off. It will also reduce the chance of damage by shutting down during a lightning storm
Step 11. Put the wall back in place
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Reinstall the insulation.
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Install drywall.
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Nastra, use binder and sand when dry.
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Paint the wall and reinstall the molding.
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Step 12. Install the AC unit
Remove the front cover of the unit and everything that holds it in its casing.
- Remove the unit while an assistant holds the casing in place.
- Install the enclosure or container of the unit in the opening. Make the casing or container protrude from the wall into the room.
- Measure the protrusion in one of the top corners, and screw the casing or container to this corner, preventing it from moving.
- Adjust the wrapper or container until the protrusion in the other corner is the same, then screw it so it doesn't move.
- Repeat this process for the bottom corners, but remember that the overhang should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch greater than that measured at the top. This creates an outward inclination that reduces the possibility of condensation and dripping inside.
- Once the casing or container has been positioned, secure it with at least two screws on each of the four sides.
Step 13. Seal around the unit
Seals the inside and outside of the unit with plenty of foam between the unit and the surfaces around it. Doing this carefully will allow you to keep the water out. Don't skimp - use a high quality sealant for 30 years or more, suitable for outdoors. Make sure it can be painted
Step 14. Install the molding
Add a finish around the unit with 45 ° slats. Secure them with finishing screws. Cover the screw heads and paint.
Advice
See other Wikis related to the power sockets and switches you need for this installation
Warnings
- A container is required for wall units that cannot be extracted from the case enclosure. Without the container, there is no possibility of fixing the unit. When using a container, the references to cut an opening of the AC size must be intended for the container and not for the unit casing.
- The containers are also nice because if the unit needs to be replaced, there is no need to find one of the exact same dimensions. Simply take out the old one and insert the new one.
- Containers will require more time and materials to adapt the unit to the container. This part, which is required for your particular installation, will be up to you. However, it should include, at least, the insulation and finishing strips. After filling with insulation around the top and sides of the unit, fix the finishing strips with screws to the inside of the container. Make sure you do not cover any unit fans.
