5 Ways to Train a Horse

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

Training a horse is a long but rewarding process. It allows, first of all, to teach the animal to behave exactly as it wants and, secondly, to build a solid empathic bond with it. Start with the basics and, in time, you will have a perfectly trained horse at your disposal.

Steps

Method 1 of 5: Part 1: Becoming a Good Trainer

Step 1. Assess your experience level

Training a horse is an interesting prospect, but the excitement could prevent you from properly assessing your skills in the field. Training is a long process, to be undertaken with great courage. If you are determined but do not have the necessary experience behind you, contact a professional or ask for help from someone more experienced than you.

Step 2. Don't expect your new horse to trust you immediately, even if you have some experience in this matter

Step 3. Be authoritative

For the training to be successful, you will need to prove yourself a good leader for your horse, letting him know that you have his needs at heart. However, being authoritative does not mean being authoritarian. During training, give the animal convincing signals without being aggressive or violent. As a leader, you should:

• Amounts, but without aggression;
• Work at a slow (but steady) pace to build a relationship of trust;
• Caring for the health (physical and mental) of your horse;
• Be confident and always remain calm;

Step 4. Develop a work plan

Even the best trainers have in mind a work program to follow during training. Organize your lessons by developing a training plan. If you want your horse to learn to perform a given task, continue for small milestones, so that the animal learns gradually.

• Stick to the program. Sometimes it may happen that you overstep or anticipate the timing of the lineup; however, try to stick to your work plan, without letting too much time pass between one training session and another.
• Make a detailed program. Rather than including 'basic activities' in the program, it breaks the goal into more specific tasks such as 'making the horse back away' or 'turning the horse'.

Step 5. Develop a system of rewards / punishments and be consistent in applying it

If your teaching method lacks consistency, you will not be able to train the horse properly. As is often the case, rewarding results in better results than punishment. As soon as the horse does what you ask, reward it by stroking it on the neck or praising it out loud. Never punish him unless he repeatedly ignores your cues.

• Reward the horse immediately once it does what you asked it to do. This includes an immediate release of the pressure used to conduct it and sometimes a word of praise.

  Do not reward your horse with treats, as over time it may make him anxious and biting. You can give your horse a treat, but only from time to time and away from training

• Discipline the horse if he intentionally disobeys with a weak excuse. Horses always have a reason for their actions, and very often they are just trying to communicate that they have a problem, that they are in pain, or more generally they are trying to tell you something.

  • The punishment must be given as it would be between horses, as would a pack leader with his subordinate. 'Bite' the animal by pinching it on the torso (or by pressing hard on its body with your hand).
  • Never beat up or whip the horse. As a trainer, it is your duty to be authoritative without endangering your horse's physical and mental health.

  Method 2 of 5: Part 2: Basic Activities

  

  Step 1. Train your horse to be touched

  Much of caring for a horse includes physical contact, and it's not a good idea to start training a horse you can't get close to.

  

  Step 2. Train the horse to tolerate being touched by the muzzle

  By starting to work with a horse, you will often find yourself in a position to frequently touch its face and head; the animal will therefore have to get used to the contact. Start by placing your hand on an area of the muzzle or neck where the animal seems willing to accept it and then move it slowly, caressing its head.

  • Make slow movements. Being prey and not predatory, horses do not like sudden movements, which make them anxious.
  • If you feel the horse fidget when you touch a certain part of its muzzle, stop your hand and wait for it to calm down, then praise it for controlling itself.
  • If you feel nervous, don't remove your hand. By taking it off, you would convince him that your hand is dangerous and that it is best to get rid of it.
  • Continue the process until the horse lets itself be touched all over the muzzle without showing any signs of nervousness (there is no need to repeat the process on the rest of the body).

  

  Step 3. Teach the horse to walk alongside you

  When leading the horse, stand parallel to its head. It is the ideal position, since, placing yourself in front of the animal, you would not have its attention and, staying behind, you would not be leading. Use a whip or whip as an extension of your arm to transmit more energy. Start walking alongside the animal, pushing it away if it gets too close and pulling it towards you if it moves away.

  • If he tries to overtake you, put the whip in front of his body to stop him; if he lingers, wave it near his rear to make him move.
  • When the animal begins to walk, put the whip aside. If he starts to overtake you or linger again, pick up the whip again and repeat the process, restraining it or cheering it on as the case may be.
  • Continue until the horse walks by your side without the need for a riding crop.

  

  Step 4. Teach the animal to stop

  A horse that does not stop on command is a horse that does not recognize you as its master. Walk alongside it (as described above) and stop after a few steps. If the animal does not stop, repeat the process by turning towards it when you stop walking, in order to stop its advance. If he continues, repeat the above, but this time, put the whip in front of him when he tries to overtake you.

  • Once you have made the decision to stop, be inflexible and don't move forward in the slightest. If the horse continues and you take a few steps behind him, he will think he can control you and will no longer take your commands into account.
  • You can make the horse stop by saying 'woah' the moment you stop walking.

  

  Step 5. Teach the horse to back off

  A well-trained horse must be able to back up on command. Take the horse to an open space by putting the halter on it. You will also need a whip. Start by keeping the rope taut by placing yourself at about 1.20 m from the animal. Make sure you have the horse's attention, which should be looking towards you with one ear pointing in your direction.

  • Tap the rope with the whip and say 'back' with a certain firmness (but without aggression). Wait for the animal to step back.
  • If the horse does not back away, repeat the process by hitting the rope harder. Continue to put pressure on the animal by hitting the rope; if the horse does not seem willing to move, hit it on the nose with a whip saying 'back' decisively.
  • When the animal backs up at least two steps, release the pressure by stepping back and stop looking him in the eye. Then step forward and caress him praising him.
  • Get it used to backing off by repeating the above steps.

  Method 3 of 5: Part 3: Training the Horse on the Longina

  

  Step 1. Train the horse on the line at different speeds

  The benefits are numerous: train the horse to focus on you and your signals, discharge excess energy and reinforce the commands previously taught. Stand at a distance of about 6 meters from the animal and let it walk in a circle around you. After a few minutes, launch it at a trot by clicking your tongue and swinging the rope near the animal's hindquarters at the same time.

  • If it does not respond to the signal, click your tongue and put pressure on the animal by running close to the rear.
  • If the animal continues to ignore the command, wave the whip near its tail. The whip will act as an extension of your arm, prompting the horse to increase the pace.
  • To get the horse to gallop lightly, do the same thing, but smack your lips instead of your tongue. This will teach the animal to respond to two different signals and to behave accordingly.

  

  Step 2. Have the animal arrested

  Put on the 'woah' mentioned above and stop the horse. As it moves, take a few steps forward in the direction it is galloping and, without getting in its path, but still making your presence felt, let it 'woah'.

  • If the horse doesn't stop, shorten the rope and repeat the process. You can also shake the rope, in order to reinforce the command and make the animal stop its run.
  • When the horse stops, stop looking him in the eye and move towards him to stroke him. Praise him and let him know that he has done his duty.

  

  Step 3. Change of direction

  Make the horse change direction without stopping. As he moves, take a few steps towards him to intercept him (as you would order him to stop) and at the same time swing the coiled rope in front of him. This will transmit the impulse to the animal to continue running without continuing in the same direction, causing it to turn around.

  • If it does not turn immediately, take a few quick steps towards where it is heading while continuing to move the coiled rope. When turning, stand back to release the pressure.
  • Click your tongue to keep him running.

  Method 4 of 5: Part 4: Desensitize the Horse

  

  Step 1. Mimic the reins using the rope

  Get the horse used to holding the reins on his neck by putting the rope behind his head. Take the horse into the paddock and let him sit still. Lift the rope and rest it on his back, then move it up and down his neck.

  • If the horse squirms or snorts, do not let it retract and do not remove the rope. On the contrary, keep moving it until the animal calms down and stops moving, then remove it.
  • Repeat the operation on both sides, passing the rope over the muzzle as well. The aim is to get him used to contact with the reins.

  

  Step 2. Train the horse with the bag

  Get the horse used to not being frightened by sudden movements by training it with the sack. Tie a plastic bag to a long whip or rod, then wave it in the air in front of the animal. The horse will fidget and start snorting. Continue to shake the sack until the animal realizes that it is harmless and calms down, then put the sack and whip aside and begins to praise it.

  • Shake the bag close to each part of his body. Remember not to remove it until the animal calms down.
  • Replace the bag with other noisy or frightening objects. A black windbreaker, for example, is a great item to try with.

  

  Step 3. Use the Jeffery method to get the horse used to your movements

  After a few days of training with the bag, prepare the animal to be ridden by letting it feel your presence next to you. Approach the horse and jump close to it, wave your arms and make strange movements that could scare the animal. As previously recommended, don't stop at the first sign of impatience from the horse; on the contrary, continue until it calms down.

  • Rub the animal's body and move quickly around it, so that it doesn't get too annoyed.
  • When the horse gets used to your movements, lean with your stomach on its back. This will gradually get him used to having a weight on his back.

  Method 5 of 5: Part 5: Getting the Horse Used to Harnesses

  

  Step 1. Start with a saddle blanket

  To get the horse used to the saddle you have to proceed step by step, starting with the most basic of harnesses: the saddle blanket. Lead the horse to an open place (in a paddock, for example) and bring the blanket with you. Make the animal see and smell it and then put it on his back. Tap it lightly and adjust it to his body to make sure it doesn't bother him.

  Have him walk with the blanket on. Since the blanket is not fixed in any way, it is important to proceed slowly, so that it does not fall and frighten the animal

  

  Step 2. Add the girth

  The next step is to secure the blanket with a girth, a harness that surrounds the horse's chest. The girth accustoms the animal to wearing the saddle, but without the weight and bulk that come with it. Once applied, walk the horse in a circle using the lead. After a few minutes, make him go to a trot and a light gallop.

  Have the horse wear the girth for a week or two before moving on to the actual saddle; in this way he will get used to having something around his torso

  

  Step 3. Switch to the saddle.

  To start, choose a light English saddle, so that the horse doesn't get too frightened by a weight it is not used to holding. Allow him to see and smell the harness before placing it on his back. Put the saddle down gently and evaluate the animal's reactions, then fasten it and let the horse walk.

  • Finally, remove the saddle and repeat the process after some time. Wear it on both sides so that it gets used to having you around while you tinker with it.
  • After a few days, use the lead to make him run with the saddle on or just walk beside him.

  

  Step 4. Have the horse wear a bitless bridle

  Never place the bit directly on the horse; start with a bitless bridle to get the horse used to having something other than a halter on its muzzle. For starters, you can either place it on top of the halter or put it on without it. Have him walk in the bridle and, if he also has a halter, have him run in circles.

  

  Step 5. Place the bite

  When the horse seems comfortable with the bridle, try biting it. Use a jointed bite (more comfortable) and gently place it in his mouth, tickling his gums. Make him keep it in his mouth for a while, then take it off. Repeat the process daily, gradually increasing the bite pressure; the important thing is that the animal gets used to having something in its mouth.

  • Getting the horse used to the bit is a slow process, so don't be in a hurry. If it takes time to get them to accept it, persevere until you succeed. Patience is essential when it comes to getting the horse to wear the bit (one of the most critical phases of training).
  • When he's used to wearing the bit, start using the reins to guide him. When wearing the bit, do not let it run with the lead: it could be dangerous.

  

  Step 6. Have the horse put on the harness

  Finally, have the horse wear the entire harness. Go slowly and walk leisurely. Use a bridle without the bit to make it run a bit or just walk alongside it.

  • Repeat this process daily before attempting to ride.
  • While wearing the harness, you can continue to use the Jeffrey method to desensitize him, so that he gets used to the idea of being ridden in the future.

  Advice

  • Show the horse that you demand your space. Don't let him rub against you or push you back. This can give rise to bad habits in the future.
  • Always be patient when training a horse.
  • Spend time with the animal even outside of training sessions. Groom him often and work alongside him throughout the day to develop a strong emotional bond.
  • Be careful. Dress appropriately, wearing a suitable helmet, shirt, trousers and boots.