When your walls are in desperate need of a freshen up, you may be tempted to grab a paintbrush and start painting them. However, before proceeding you should know the basics of this job to save your valuable time and effort. The secret to obtaining a smooth surface free of imperfections is an adequate preparation: after having cleaned the wall and passed the first coat of adhesion, you have to take care of the outer edges and gradually proceed inwards by applying a color that makes the room irresistible!
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Prepare the Workspace
Step 1. Remove all accessories from the wall
Locate all the knobs, socket plates, switches, the thermostat and anything else on the wall and remove it. Working on a smooth, unobstructed surface allows you to proceed more efficiently.
- In most cases, you just need to unscrew these elements and lift them; remember to label the various plates and spacers and to put the screws together with the components they belong to.
- Next, you need to cover any items that you can't take apart with masking tape.
Step 2. Move the furniture
Find an area to store furniture, appliances, and other personal belongings until you have the work organized; if you have space problems, just move these objects away from the wall you are about to paint. Remember to cover everything else with tarp or plastic foil as a splash protection.
- It is almost impossible to get the paint off the upholstery, so you should cover the furniture even if you think it is at a safe distance from the wall.
- Unplug all electronic devices and store them in a place where they cannot be damaged.
Step 3. Spread out a tarp
Place a plastic or jute one on the floor to prevent splashes and drops of color from soiling the surface. For maximum protection, the sheets should reach the base of the wall.
- Do not use flimsy covers, such as newspaper or sheets, to protect the floor; these materials are generally too thin to prevent paint from passing through.
- There is no need to cover the entire floor; just slide the sheet over the areas you need to protect as you go from one end of the wall to the other.
Step 4. Gently clean the wall
Wet a clean rag or sponge with warm water and mild liquid soap. Squeeze it to remove excess moisture and use it to scrub the walls from top to bottom, thereby removing dust and other debris that can interfere with the adhesion of the paint.
- Use a light touch, you just need to clean the wall and not soak it with water.
- A small dose of sodium phosphate diluted in water may be useful to loosen encrustations from dirtier areas such as those in the kitchen or basement.
Step 5. Protect adjacent surfaces with masking tape
You can apply it on the edge of the skirting board, on the top molding and around the door jamb; It is also very useful for repairing elements that you have not been able to disassemble from splashes of color, such as the switch to reduce the intensity of the lights. Be careful to align the tape precisely, otherwise you will get an uncertain result.
- You can buy this adhesive tape at any DIY store, supermarket and stationery shop.
- Take some of different widths to have greater flexibility during the covering phase and to ensure greater protection for parts that could accidentally get dirty.
Part 2 of 3: Applying the Gripper
Step 1. Buy a bucket of clinging
For most jobs, a normal white primer that highlights the final color is fine; in general, four liters of adhesives are sufficient.
- When painting interior walls you must always apply this basic product; not only does it allow the paint to adhere, it also reduces the number of coats required to achieve an intense and uniform color.
- The primer is especially important when you want to cover a dark color with a lighter one.
Step 2. Spread the primer with a painter's roller
Spread an even layer from floor to ceiling covering the largest area in the center of the wall. This layer should not be too thick, the paint will adhere easily as long as it is smooth and homogeneous.
Be careful not to leave out some areas, because in case of irregularities the final color of the paint would be altered
Step 3. Get a brush to cover the areas you couldn't reach
Use the tips of the bristles to spread the primer into tight corners and other hard-to-reach places. Pay particular attention to corners, niches, spaces around jambs and accessories attached to the wall. Try to get a thickness similar to that of the layer applied with the roller.
- Make long, steady movements and then smooth the primer with strokes in different directions.
- Remember to use masking tape for sharp lines and corners.
Step 4. Wait for it to dry
Allow the base coat to settle for four hours. It should be dry to the touch before starting to coat it with coats of paint; it is better to apply the adhesive during the afternoon or evening and wait until the next day to apply the color.
- Painting over the wet primer stains the color and makes it dull, thus ruining the final job.
- You can speed up the drying process by keeping your work area well ventilated by opening windows, turning on a ceiling fan or air conditioner.
Part 3 of 3: Paint the Wall
Step 1. Choose the right type of paint
When it comes to buying interior color, you have many options. Don't just consider the shade, but also the type of surface and finish you want to achieve; for example, pastel colors are used to make service bathrooms or living rooms brighter, while darker ones are perfect for giving space and size to common areas, such as the kitchen.
Purchase enough paint to finish the project without running out of stock. A four-liter bucket usually allows you to paint 38 m2.
Step 2. Mix the paint thoroughly
You can use an electric mixer or hand tool to give the product an even texture, even if it was already mixed when you bought it. By doing this, you prevent the pigments and oil from separating, thus ensuring better coverage and a smoother finish; once it has a perfectly even consistency, you can start painting.
- To reduce splashes and spills, pour the paint into a larger bucket before mixing.
- This step is critical, regardless of whether you are using a new or partially used tin of color.
Step 3. Start whitewashing the edges by hand
Dip the tip of the brush for about 5 cm in the color, letting the excess product drip; then rub it on the wall by resting the sloping edge of the bristles and starting from an upper corner of the wall. Follow the strips of masking tape you applied earlier in smooth, linear movements until you have completed the perimeter of the wall.
- Painting a strip of 5-8 cm all around the edges allows you to "fill in" the rest of the wall using the roller.
- Stop occasionally to dip the brush again when the color becomes less intense.
Step 4. Switch to the inner surface of the wall
After whitening the edges, use a large roller to take care of the center area. The best way to proceed is to alternate an "M" with a "W" movement, working back and forth on the same section until it is completely tinted; later, you can move on to the next section always respecting the same scheme.
- A telescopic extension for the roller is very useful for reaching the upper sections of the wall near the ceiling; be sure to superimpose the color on the edges you whitened earlier.
- Use only the necessary amount of paint to cover the adhesion layer; if you over-saturate the roller, drops form which leave unsightly streaks.
Step 5. Roll out the subsequent coats
Depending on the intensity of color you want to achieve, you can apply a second and even a third layer of paint; always follow the same method starting at the outer edges and moving towards the inside of the wall. Remember to wait 2-4 hours between coats to allow the paint time to dry.
- In most cases, no more than a couple of layers are needed; however, the extra coats are useful when the finish is grainy or a dark color needs to be covered.
- To avoid noticing the "passes" of the roller, be sure to paint the entire surface of the wall, including the areas surrounding the perimeter.
Step 6. Let the paint settle overnight
Take a last look to make sure there are no small imperfections, clumps of color, drops or other defects before finishing the job. Be aware that the final layer may require twice the drying times compared to the adhesion agent; meanwhile, resist the temptation to touch the surface to avoid accidental stains.
- Typically, an interior wall needs 24-48 hours for the paint to fully set.
- Don't forget to remove the masking tape when you are satisfied with the job.
Advice
- Between applying the primer, painting and respecting the drying times, painting the interior walls can be a long job; schedule it for the weekend or on days when you are off work, to have enough time and not have to rush.
- Fill the holes and smooth out any imperfections around corners, fixtures and grouted areas using fine-grained sandpaper before applying the bonding agent.
- Multiply the length of the room by its width in meters to calculate exactly how much paint you need for a large whitewash project.
- To better match the colors, mix the primer with a small amount of the paint you want to use for the final coat.
- Remove the masking tape when the color is still wet to prevent it from cracking or peeling.
Warnings
- Be careful when climbing stairs and stools; accidents often happen out of carelessness.
- Keep small children and pets away from freshly painted walls until they are dry.
