Most people who buy a sword do so for the beauty of the object or because they are dedicated to collecting. It may happen, however, that by acquiring a minimum of knowledge of kendo or kenjutsu, certain swords bought at a high price then reveal themselves for what they actually are: an expensive rip-off! Reading this article can help you correctly evaluate a Japanese sword while also learning a few specific terms.
Steps
Step 1. First, consider whether the Tsukaito (the grip cover) is tied tightly
Step 2. If you want to use the sword, the scabbard should have a Sageo (woven cotton webbing used to secure the scabbard to the belt)
Step 3. The tip of the sword shouldn't make too sharp an angle, but look like this
Step 4. If the seller tells you that the sword is made of carbon steel, they probably don't know what they are talking about (steel always contains a quantity of carbon, otherwise it would be iron)
However, generally speaking, the term carbon steel can help to understand if the blade is stainless or not. If it is stainless, then we are talking about a modern reproduction to simply show off (the blade will not hold its sharpness and the economic value of the sword will be rather poor).
Step 5. A handmade sword does not have the "Made in China" designation
Step 6. If the blade is well maintained or recently made (there are also good modern swords), make sure it is sharp (it will need to be sharper than the sharpest kitchen knife you have ever used)
DON'T DO THIS BY CUTTING YOUR FINGERS! Learn to evaluate the sharpness of the blade with safe methods (you can find several on the net) or ignore this step entirely.
Step 7. The sword should have a Mekuki, the peg or "ankle" that holds the blade and handle together
Step 8. The blade should not be triangular
Step 9. The line that runs on the back of the sword is drawn by grooves which serve to lighten the structure of the blade and make it more flexible without weakening it
Other schools of thought argue that it serves to extract the blade more easily from the enemy's body, avoiding the "sucker" effect. More rarely, the blade is processed in this way to remove any impurities in the metal.
Step 10. The back of the sword and the sides adjacent to it should be shiny (there are kata where the katana blade is used as a mirror to identify any opponents behind), while the center and the blade may be slightly duller (but still shiny); they must have the characteristic design that recalls the grain of the wood or the flow of water
This motif is unique to each sword and expresses its personality. In ancient swords, this design was the result of a repeated forging process, but in modern swords it could be done artfully or obtained by corrosion.
Step 11. Learn to gauge the age of the sword
Japanese blades can be classified according to the era in which they were forged (for example, Gendo-era swords date back to the period from 1877 to 1945). Indicatively, the more ancient a sword is, the more it has value, even if a lot depends on the blacksmith who forged it (an ancient sword forged by a minor blacksmith has less value than a more recent one forged by a master). In particular, the swords forged in the vicinity of the Second World War have little value, because they are mass produced (however, there are master craftsmen who have distinguished themselves in modern times). In general, recent blades can be good as souvenirs or for training, less for collecting.
Step 12. Before spending a lot of money on a sword, read a good book about Japanese sword evaluation, personally examine as many swords as you can (go to a museum) or, even better, contact an expert
Step 13. Know that if the sword is of value and you leave marks on it by touching the blade with your fingers, it could cost you $ 300 per centimeter to have it polished again
Advice
- There are no straight-bladed katanas. If you see one, it is more likely to be a sword from the Middle East. A straight oriental sword is not necessarily a ninja blade, although ninjas were famous for wielding swords of this type.
- Immediately after purchase, store the sword in an appropriate container, as carrying it around may be illegal.
- If you touch the blade, quickly wipe it with a specific metal polishing cloth or apply a good clear oil (WD40 or baby oil) on it. Acids from human skin can damage the blade or leave a halo of rust. This is especially true for ancient blades and some modern ones (the higher the percentage of carbon, the more likely it is to rust). If in doubt, wipe the blade and lubricate it.
- For long-term protection of other parts of the sword (especially those that are not metal or fabric), microcrystalline wood protection wax can be used. However, if you have any doubts, ask an expert first. Such a wax can also work well on certain metal parts, although oil should suffice for these. Read the instructions on the product before applying the wax! If you put too much wax or streaks form, use clear oil right away to dissolve the wax. Do not resort to acid substances!
- A real sword should have no symbols on the blade.
Warnings
- Remember that good swords are sharp ones, and for that reason it is possible to get hurt with them.
- Unless you know what you are doing, don't try to sharpen a valuable sword yourself, you could scratch the blade or even destroy its geometry (its profile)!
- Be very careful when handling a sword, you could damage it or harm yourself if you don't use it properly.
