Most modern vehicles are equipped with a drive belt, although this piece is sometimes referred to as the "fan belt". Older models instead contain a belt that is used only to activate the fan that cools the radiator; these are very similar elements that can be treated in the same way. When they are noisy they emit squeaks, creaks or creaks that can be constant or intermittent; usually, such noises indicate a problem that needs to be solved, such as a damaged or loose belt.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Apply Antiskid to the Neoprene Straps
Step 1. Verify that the strap is made of neoprene
Most modern cars have drive belts instead of fan belts, although the names are used indifferently. Older models and some high-performance vehicles still use this fan-specific system instead of an electrical system. In the past the belts were constructed of neoprene and should benefit from the application of a specific lubricant; however, modern ones made with EPDM rubbers can dry out when they come into contact with this substance.
- If the belt was installed after 2000, it is likely to be EPDM.
- It is difficult to visually recognize the two materials until the belts are damaged and need to be replaced.
Step 2. Open the hood
You have to spray the anti-skid directly on the belt; to proceed, you must open the hood and remove any carter protecting it. You may need some basic tools like a socket and a wrench.
- Some car engines are covered with a crankcase that you need to take apart.
- You must be able to see and directly access the belt while the engine is running.
Step 3. Locate the fan belt
It is likely mounted in the front of the engine, connected to the pulley that rotates the radiator cooling fan (s); you can find it more quickly if you start from the radiator and move back towards the engine.
- In many old American vehicles the belt is attached to a shaft with a large fan at the end that allows you to easily recognize it.
- You may notice the drive belt or accessories that perform the same function on the side of the engine, mounted horizontally.
Step 4. Start the vehicle
Check that the gearbox is in neutral, that you have activated the parking brake and then start the engine; this is an essential step, since the belt must move if you want to cover it entirely with the anti-skid.
Leave the hood open and the engine cover removed when you start the car
Step 5. Spray the product directly onto the belt
Apply it to the component while the engine is running. In this phase the belt moves very quickly, so you can hold the can still and maintain a constant flow of lubricant.
- Continue like this until the entire belt is wet.
- The squeak should stop almost immediately.
Method 2 of 3: Tighten or Align the Belt
Step 1. Inspect it for alignment problems
A common cause of these noises is misalignment of the belt relative to the pulleys. Open the hood and check the piece to make sure it is mounted on the top pulley and that it is straight; if in doubt, place a tape measure on the pulley for a reference point.
- If the belt is minimally misaligned, it may make squeaks, creaks and creaks.
- Plus, it wears out much faster.
Step 2. Identify signs of damage or excessive wear
If the belt needs to be replaced, it often becomes noisy due to wear. Observe it in the light of a torch; if you notice any obvious cracks or missing pieces, you need to replace them immediately.
- Modern belts built with EPDM tires are made to last up to 160,000km before needing to be replaced, but they can fail prematurely due to misalignment or abnormal driving conditions.
- Those in neoprene must be changed every 50,000-100,000 km.
Step 3. Locate the idler roller
Some cars have this mechanism that applies tension to the drive belt or fan. If you are not sure if your vehicle is also equipped with it, consult the use and maintenance manual specific to the model and year of production of the car.
- The idler roller is often bolted directly to the engine block and has an opening that allows a 12mm socket wrench to be inserted.
- Not all vehicles have this roller.
Step 4. Replace it
If the roller or automatic belt tensioner is too worn to apply enough traction, you need to replace it. You should not be able to press the roller and loosen the tension on the belt by hand; however, if you succeed, it means the part needs to be replaced. Most belt tensioners are fixed with one or two bolts.
- Remove the old one by unscrewing the bolts that go through it and engage the engine block.
- It is recommended to change the belt at the same time, as it could be damaged due to the slack roller.
Step 5. Pull the roller
On some vehicles you can change the traction on the belt thanks to an adjustment bracket that is mounted on an accessory, such as the alternator; in this case, loosen the two bolts that pass through the adjustable eyelets of the bracket. Insert a crowbar between the engine block and the alternator to remove the latter with the belt over the pulley; maintain traction as you screw the bolts back into the eyelets.
- It is best to do this with the help of a friend who keeps the belt under tension.
- Check that the belt is perfectly aligned on the pulley.
Method 3 of 3: Replace the Belt
Step 1. Purchase a replacement part
You can get it from a specialist shop, but remember to give the clerk all the exact information regarding the model, make and year of production of the vehicle as well as the volume of the engine, so that he can give you the right belt.
- It is recommended to use an EPDM rubber belt to replace the old one.
- Compare the replacement with the old part to make sure it is the correct width and length.
Step 2. Release the tension on the belt
If your vehicle is equipped with a tensioner roller, you can proceed by inserting the end of a 12mm socket wrench into the hole in the center of the roller. On some vehicles you can find a bolt head that you need to turn with the correct key. Rotate the roller clockwise to fold the tensioner arm down and release traction.
If the belt is secured by a bracket located on the alternator, loosen the bolts passing through the adjustment eyelets to relieve tension
Step 3. Remove the belt from the motor
Observe its location and the path it follows inside the engine. If it only serves to spin the fan, it may form a few curves and creases; however, if it is a modern drive belt, its path is likely to be complex and encircle numerous pulleys. Your vehicle manual should have a diagram of the location of this piece, but it is always worth looking at the original carefully before disassembling it.
If you don't have a chart, take a picture of the old cell phone strap before removing it
Step 4. Install the new belt
Slide the replacement through the pulleys following the path of the original. Make sure it fits snugly around each roll and is perfectly aligned to prevent it from getting damaged or making a lot of noise.
- Consult the operation and maintenance manual to find out how to fit the drive belt or fan of your vehicle in the right way.
- If inserted diagonally, it can produce a loud noise; check that it is straight and flat.
Step 5. Apply voltage
Once the belt is inserted, release the tension you applied to the automatic belt tensioner. On cars equipped with an adjustment bracket, insert a crowbar between the bracket itself and the engine block to remove the former; tighten the bolts in the eyelets without releasing the tension.
- Visually inspect the new belt to make sure it is straight.
- Start the vehicle and pay attention to any screeching sounds.
