Are you thinking of buying a pearl jewel? Do you have a family heirloom made up of just these gems? A few simple tests allow you to understand within a few minutes whether they are real or fake pearls. Learn immediately how to look for and perceive the characteristics of a real pearl in order to no longer run the risk of buying a fake.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: Visual Tests
Step 1. Look for small imperfections
As previously written, real pearls are rarely "perfect". They usually have small flaws or irregularities in shape. The outer layer of mother of pearl can also reflect light in different ways, from one point to another. The imitations are mostly "too perfect": they are exactly spherical with a uniform sheen on the surface, and show no flaws or dents.
Although it is possible that there is a perfectly spherical real pearl, an entire necklace can never be made up entirely of these specimens. A necklace made entirely of identical and very smooth pearls is probably a fake
Step 2. Check that the gloss meets the requirements for clarity and intensity
Luster is the characteristic that jewelers use to describe how light reflects on a precious stone; contributes to the beauty of the gem. Good quality pearls have an intense, clear luster, which makes them sparkle when light hits them. If you look closely, you are able to see your reflection on the pearl.
One of the problems that can arise with this test is that real but low quality pearls can look dull and "dull" just like fake ones. Check the result of this test with that of others described in this tutorial
Step 3. Check the patina
The price of authentic and good quality pearls is often determined by the patina itself. This indicates the slight color that is visible on the gem when it is illuminated; fake pearls generally lack the patina (a difficult feature to replicate). For this reason, if the specimen seems to show very light colored reflections when you place it under a light source, know that there is a good chance that it is true. Pink and ivory are the most requested patinas for white pearls, although the variety of color is quite wide, especially for black pearls.
Since some real pearls do not have a visible patina, remember that the fact that there is not does not mean that you are necessarily handling an imitation
Step 4. Look for clues near the hole that was drilled
The beads strung in a necklace have mostly been drilled with a drill to allow the string to pass through. Examine this point very carefully, because it can help you determine the authenticity of the gem. Here's what you should check:
- Hole with well-defined edges. Real pearls usually have holes with sharp edges and the hole is a hollow cylinder. Fakes often show holes with rounded or rough edges. However, a worn pearl may show a blunt-edged hole. Furthermore, in fake specimens the hole may not be perfectly cylindrical and may protrude slightly from the surface of the gem.
- Chipped paint or coating around the hole. Since the fake pearls rub together with use, the coating or artificial paint wears around the holes; in this case you may be able to see the underlying shards of glass or plastic. All these clues make you realize that it is a fake gem.
Step 5. Look inside the hole for a line between the core and the mother of pearl
A real gem practically always has a well-defined outer layer of mother-of-pearl, while artificial ones do not have it or have only a thin coating. If your pearl is pierced, you can check the inside by examining it with a magnifying glass. The real ones, usually (although not always), have an obvious line that separates the core from the mother of pearl (inside the pearl).
Method 2 of 4: What to Avoid
Step 1. Do not rely on a single test to verify the authenticity of pearls
It will never be repeated enough: every single check described above can give false results. To be sure, take multiple exams.
To cite an example of how the results of a single test can be misleading, be aware that a research source claims that a specially polished pearl can be extremely smooth on the tooth and friction test
Step 2. Avoid the "burn" test
Some recommend holding the pearls over an open flame to determine their authenticity. According to this rumor, fake pearls should burn or melt, while real ones remain intact. The reality, on the other hand, is much more complex. Although most artificial specimens are damaged by fire, be aware that it also happens to some real pearls. Those that have been worked with an artificial external coating are particularly vulnerable to flames and can be damaged, deformed at the level of the holes or lose their luster after a few seconds in contact with fire.
In addition, it is worth pointing out that pearls are excellent conductors of heat and become hot on fire. If you absolutely want to try this test, take every precaution not to burn yourself
Step 3. Don't be fooled by imitations that are sold under exotic names
If the vendor is trying to "foist" you on a pearl by leveraging the gem's strange name rather than its physical qualities, chances are he is scamming you. For example, the pearls of "Mallorca" (or "Majorca") take their name from the Balearic island, but are entirely built by man and sometimes sold as real to naive customers.
Step 4. Don't ignore your instincts and common sense regarding the price of a pearl
This depends a lot on the size, shape, patina and other characteristics of the gem. However, it is never a cheap item. For example, a necklace made with freshwater pearls (the real cheaper ones) retails for several hundred euros. If the seller is offering you a deal that is too good to be true, be aware that it probably isn't.
As a general rule, you should only buy pearls from a licensed jeweler and from shops that only deal with pearls. If you rely on vendors you met on the street or in the pawnshops, you could run the risk of being scammed. Read this article for more details
Method 3 of 4: Advanced Tests
Step 1. Check the surface of the pearl with a microscope
The classic "flake" structure must appear. You can also use a jeweler's magnifying glass (30x), but the microscope with at least 64x magnification is the ideal tool and gives reliable results. The surface of a real pearl has a flaky structure similar to a labyrinth; looks like a topographic map. This structure is responsible for the "grainy" consistency of the gem.
By contrast, the synthetic ones are often covered with regular bumps and grains that give them a moon-like appearance
Step 2. Compare the pearls with the real certified ones
All the tests that have been described are easier to perform if you have comparison samples that allow you to detect the differences. Try to get in touch with a jeweler and ask if they can compare your pearls to some genuine gems. Alternatively, borrow a friend or relative's pearls for comparison.
Use common sense when choosing which test to put in place to compare pearls to real ones. For example, do not attempt to examine the tooth or the friction on authentic specimens owned by others
Step 3. Take the pearls to an expert for an evaluation
If you have difficulty in determining the authenticity of gems, then you can contact an expert jeweler or gemologist. Both are professionals who have the right tools, knowledge and an expert eye to tell you if your pearls are real (and if so, what quality). However, this is far from an economic solution: a basic estimate could cost even more than 100 euros.
Step 4. Book an X-ray test
This test allows an expert to determine the authenticity of the pearls by means of an X-ray. In the plates, the real specimens appear in a semi-transparent gray color, while the fake ones give a white and full image in the negative prints, black in the positive ones.
Step 5. Request a refractometer test
This advanced test measures the amount of light that passes through the pearl, to determine if it is true or not. Pearls have a refractometer value (called refractive index) between 1.530 and 1.685. The difference between these two values (0, 155) is called birefringence of the pearl, and determines the appearance of the gem under light.. These qualities tell an expert whether the pearl is genuine or not.
Method 4 of 4: Tactile Tests
Step 1. Rub the pearls against an incisor
Hold one or two pearls between your thumb and forefinger and gently press them to the chewing surface of the tooth in a horizontal motion. A real pearl should have a rough and slightly grainy texture with small flake-like imperfections on the outer surface of the nacre. Faux pearls, made of glass or plastic, are almost always too perfect and smooth.
You should brush your teeth before doing this to make sure they are clean. Residues from a recent meal could lead to wrong results
Step 2. Rub the gems together
Keep a couple in your fingers and create friction between them. You should feel a slight friction sensation. Real pearls create this feeling because the outer layers of mother of pearl have small imperfections that prevent them from flowing smoothly. In the fakes, however, the pearls are finished with a smooth cover and move one over the other without problems.
At the end of the test, carefully observe your hands. When you rub the pearls together, tiny particles of mother of pearl come off. If you notice a white, dusty and very fine residue on your fingers, it is very likely that it is mother-of-pearl dust, consequently they are real gems
Step 3. Check if the pearls are perfectly round
Since they are a product of nature, each real pearl is slightly different, just like snowflakes or fingerprints. Many of them are not perfectly spherical: they are often oval or with small defects. If the pearls you are analyzing are perfectly round, there is a good chance they are artificial.
- However, there is a possibility that real pearls are spherical, but they are very rare and expensive specimens.
- How to tell if a pearl is perfectly round or not? Roll it gently on a flat surface. "Imperfect" specimens will not be able to roll in a straight line.
Step 4. Test the sensation of cold to the touch
For this exam you need a few gems that have not been worn for a while. Grab them with one hand and focus on the warm sensation of your skin. The real ones are clearly cold and take a few seconds to warm up. The sensation is similar to what you get when walking barefoot on a marble floor.
- Plastic beads, on the other hand, have a similar temperature to room temperature and heat up quickly.
- Note: good quality fakes are able to reproduce the "cold" feeling of pearls. Compare the results of this test with others if this is the first exam you take.
Step 5. Weigh the pearl
Carefully bounce one or two specimens in your hand to see how much they may weigh. Most real pearls are quite heavy in relation to size. Fake pearls, on the other hand, give the feeling of having little "substance" and are light (especially plastic ones).
For obvious reasons, this test can't be perfect - evaluating the weight of a few small pearls isn't easy. For the most reliable results, you should compare the weight of pearls whose authenticity you are certain of with those that are subject to verification. Remember to always use more evidence, no matter how confident you are about the weight
Advice
- Remember that real pearls exist in two varieties: natural ones, which are extracted from wild-harvested oysters, and cultivated ones, which come from farmed oysters. Between the two types there may be differences in color, mother of pearl, luster and shape. Natural ones are rarer and more expensive than cultivated ones.
- If you want to clean your real pearls, consider visiting an experienced jeweler. Some solvents and detergents commonly used for household cleaning can make them permanently dull. Fortunately, most jewelers offer cleaning services.
Warnings
- Be very cautious when attempting the tooth test on a single pearl. Grab it securely to avoid accidentally swallowing it.
- When you bite or rub pearls to check their authenticity, you may cause scratches on their surface. Just rub them several times with your thumb to make the defects disappear.
