A cameo is a very elegant piece of jewelry that has made a comeback recently, but given its popularity there are far more realistic imitations around than there was a while ago. It can be difficult to tell when a cameo is a true piece of antiquity and when it is a modern day imitation, but there are several clues to consider.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Part One: Generic Identification
Step 1. Know which are the most authentic materials
True engraved cameos can be made of shell or natural stone, while authentic painted ones are typically porcelain.
- As a general rule, any engraved cameo created from a natural material can be considered authentic. Among the materials used there can be shells, agates, dogwood, onyx, ivory, lava, coral, bone, mother of pearl and various gems.
- An inauthentic or fake cameo is spoken of when it is made of plastic or resin.
Step 2. Inspect the cameo for cracks
Hold the cameo up to the light. Regardless of the material and age, you shouldn't see any chips or cracks on the main material.
- Soft plastics chip more easily than shells, porcelain, and stones. However, hard resins resist chipping.
- This control says a lot about the value of the cameo rather than its authenticity. A chipped cameo may be real, but this damage can decrease its value on the market.
Step 3. Look at the direction of the face
Most ancient cameos show a figure turned to the right. Later, the one looking to the left became more common, in turn followed by the one looking forward.
- Since the figures on an authentic antique cameo can look in any of these three directions, this is not in itself an indication of authenticity.
- However, if you have other reasons to doubt the authenticity of the cameo, the fact that the face is looking to the left or to the front instead of to the right may give you other reasons to doubt.
Step 4. Look at the face
An authentic cameo will show a high quality face. The natural curves of the chin and mouth will be reflected in the drawing, and the face will typically show rounded cheeks.
- Portrait cameos showing a straight nose are typically from the Victorian era.
- Portraits with prominent noses, "Romans", generally date back to before 1860.
- A "delicious" or button-like nose generally indicates a cameo made in the 21st century. If the nose is upturned and the face is flat, it could indicate that the cameo is somewhat modern and probably laser created, thus making it inauthentic.
Step 5. Check the brooch
Turn the cameo and check the brooch on the back. An antique piece will have the classic "C closure".
With a "C-lock" the hook of the brooch goes around a piece of embossed metal. There are no other hooks to keep it fixed
Step 6. Consider the details well
Although many authentic cameos are simple, other more valuable antique pieces feature finer details in engraving or painting. These details typically include earrings, pearl necklaces, buds and flowers.
- Note how some details may indicate the piece is not authentic. For example, many laser cut imitations show a slight white band on the outer edge.
- Some authentic cameos are set in 14K or 18K gold bezels. Silver and gold bezels are also very common. But sometimes there is no frame present.
- These frames can be decorated with valuable stones, but even this is not always true.
Step 7. Weigh the cameo in one hand
Plastic and glass cameos tend to be built on heavy metal bases, thus leading to them being heavier than shell and porcelain cameos.
- However, this too is not always true, so the weight itself is not an indication of authenticity.
- Many stone cameos are naturally heavier than shell and porcelain cameos.
Method 2 of 3: Part Two: The Qualities of the Engraved Cameo
Step 1. Look at the finishes
Turn the cameo in your hands and see how the light hits it. A genuine shell cameo will appear dull rather than shiny.
- This is true for almost all engraved cameos, as many natural materials are difficult to polish after being worked.
- Some genuine stone cameos may be slightly polished though, so it's not a definitive proof yet.
Step 2. Inspect the back
Hold the cameo face down and rub the back with your index finger. If the cameo is genuine shell, you should feel it slightly concave or curved.
- Shells naturally have a curved surface, so a cameo carved from a shell will typically have this curve, although it can be very slight.
- This does not necessarily apply to cameos carved from stones or other materials.
Step 3. Look at the cameo in strong light
Looking at it from the back, hold the cameo against sunlight on a very clear day or against strong artificial light. You should be able to see the whole silhouette if the cameo is carved from the shell.
- Note: this does not apply to stone cameos.
- Although rare, some plastic cameos are still thin and can show the silhouette too, making this a non-definitive proof.
Step 4. Use a strong magnifying glass to observe the signs
Inspect the front of the cameo with a strong magnifying glass, perhaps a jeweler's. You should see the slight marks caused by the engraving around the carved parts of the cameo.
- This applies to all cameos carved in natural materials.
- The engraving marks generally follow the lines and curves of the design. The signs that do not seem to follow these lines are therefore only scratches and should not be evaluated as signs of authenticity.
Step 5. Feel the temperature
Hold the cameo in your hand for about 30 seconds. A real stone will appear quite cold, while a piece of plastic will heat up quickly thanks to the temperature of the room and the warmth of your hand.
You can also keep the cameo on your wrist or chin. These are typically cooler areas on the palm of your hands and can give you a more precise indication
Step 6. Test the hardness
Gently hit your teeth with the cameo and hear the sound it produces. If it sounds dull or hollow, it's probably plastic.
- Conversely, a cameo that sounds very solid is likely to be made of stone or some other natural material.
- Be careful when doing this test. Don't hit the teeth too hard with the cameo as you could damage both.
Step 7. Touch the cameo with a heated needle
Heat a sewing needle over a small flame or under hot water, then use it to touch the cameo. If it's plastic, it will melt it easily, while it won't do anything like a clamshell or stone.
- Notice how many modern resins are very hard and don't melt that easily, so the test may not work.
- Be careful not to burn yourself when using the heated needle. Wear insulated gloves or hold the needle with clothespins.
Method 3 of 3: Part Three: The Qualities of Painted Cameos
Step 1. Examine the cameo for paint or enamel chips
Examine the paint or glaze on the decorated surface of the piece. The number of deep scratches or nicks should be minimal, if not none at all.
- The quality of the paint and enamel used by the old artisans is typically more durable than that used by modern counterfeiters. Real cameos were made to last, so the design should be basically intact.
- This also indicates the value. Scratched designs decrease the value of the cameo.
Step 2. Ask yourself how new it looks
While the damage to the cameo should be minimal, an authentic piece shouldn't look new. Expect to find faded colors, some slight scratches on the painting, and other signs of wear.
As a general rule, if the painting and the piece itself appear as new it is probably because they are
Step 3. Check the cameo under a lens
Use a magnifying or jeweler's glass to examine the front and back of the piece for less noticeable signs of light wear.
While there may be some slight scratches noticeable already with the naked eye, you should see marks all along the surface under a magnifying glass
Advice
- Consider taking the cameo to a professional jeweler for evaluation. It is almost impossible for a non-expert to understand the real value on the market of a cameo, so if you want to know how much that piece is worth, you must seek the advice of a professional. Do this when you're pretty sure it's authentic, which saves you time and money.
- When buying a cameo, go to a reputable dealer. In particular, look for a retailer who takes some responsibility for the authenticity and value of the goods sold. These dealers are very likely to inspect parts personally and only sell authentic, quality ones.
