Pyrography is a wood decoration technique that uses a high temperature metal tip to leave a "burned" trace on the worked surface. Not only is it an excellent anti-stress, it is also an artistic activity that produces attractive artifacts capable of making a good impression as furnishing accessories. Use the pyrography tool for yourself, to create works to display on the walls of the house, or for others, as a gift. Whatever project you have in mind, you'll do well to familiarize yourself with the basics of this technique first.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Basic Concepts
Step 1. Get the tools you need
To do some pyrography, at first you will need a minimum of essential tools. After doing a couple of jobs you can move on to more sophisticated equipment, but still the essential is:
- A pyrography tool. There are two basic types: the common one, which is a tool similar to a soldering iron for electronic components, at a fixed temperature and equipped with interchangeable metal tips, and then there are the top-of-the-range ones, with more wire holders and temperature regulators.. You can get a soldering iron pyrograph for as little as € 20 or € 30, while the more versatile pen types also cost more than € 200.
- An assortment of tips. The various types will allow you to produce a lighter or more pronounced stroke, as well as different types of signs.
- A strop impregnated with aluminum oxide paste for periodic cleaning of the metal tips of the pyrograph.
- A pair of pliers.
- An earthenware jar or pyrography holder (to rest it safely while still hot).
Step 2. Get some good wood tablets for your works, preferably soft
The hardness of wood is measured on a scale from 1 to 10, where 1 corresponds to the softest wood (such as Balsa) and 10 to the hardest (such as Padauk). Especially for a beginner it is better to use very soft wood. Hardwoods are expensive, heat resistant, and generally quite dark. Soft woods, on the other hand, are cheaper, easier to work with and are typically also lighter so they offer a good contrast to the burn mark. To gain experience, look for these types of wood:
- Pine tree
- Linden
- Birch
- Ash tree
- Maple tree
Step 3. Handle the pyrograph carefully
The tool heats up quickly, so remember to insert the tip you intend to use before turning it on. Always use pliers to insert and remove the tips. In two or three minutes the pyrography is hot. While it is heating up, place it on its stand or place it in a clay jar to avoid accidental burns.
Step 4. Sand down the tablet before starting
Take some fine sandpaper (320 grit), wrap it on a flat block of wood or on the appropriate backing, and lightly treat the surface of the wood evenly. Details will be sharper and more precise if the surface of the wood is smooth.
- Pass the sandpaper in the direction of the grain. The grain corresponds to the direction of the fibers in the wood. By passing the paper in the direction of the grain, you will avoid smudges and scratches on the surface, as would happen by passing it in the opposite direction.
- After sanding, clean the surface of the tablet with a damp rag. Thus the sawdust residues will come away and it will be easier to transfer the design of the work to be carried out.
Step 5. Use a light stretch, don't tread too hard
Many beginners make the mistake of pressing the pyrograph tip too hard on the wood, believing that it takes a lot of pressure to make a mark. It's wrong. In fact, using light touches is much better than pressing hard. It is easier to control the movement of the tip, fewer mistakes are made, and also eliminates the possibility of accidental burns.
Step 6. Take your time
Nobody will give you an award for completing your work in record time. Pyrography is a slow technique, no matter what material you are working on. As you familiarize yourself with the tool, remember:
- It is best to apply constant pressure with the tip. Beginner projects typically require the markings to be stamped evenly throughout the design.
- The longer you hold the pyrograph on one spot, the darker and deeper the mark will be.
Step 7. Move the tool in the direction of the wood grain, so the work will require less effort
Turn the wooden board so that the prevailing direction of the grain is downward. This will make your job a lot easier, as most of the time you will find yourself moving the tip down, and so it will be natural for you to follow the grain. Going against the grain you would encounter much greater resistance.
Step 8. Get some test material to practice
When you have prepared the necessary equipment and understand how to use it, find some tablets and practice using the different tips of your pyrograph. Learn the effect of each tip well, so you'll know which one to use depending on the type of project. The choice of tip depends on the type of design and the details you want to make.
Part 2 of 3: Transfer the Design to be Made to the Wood
Step 1. Choose your preferred method for transferring the chosen design to the wood
While it is certainly possible to create good quality work without resorting to a pencil sketch, beginners usually find it helpful to lay out a design on the surface. There are three basic ways to copy a design onto wood.
Step 2. Trace the design directly onto the wood, freehand
If you have talent and practice in drawing, you can have fun tracing it directly in pencil on the tablet surface. It is certainly not the easiest and most efficient way to reproduce the sketch of the work, but it brings a trait of originality that is often lacking when mechanically copying a drawing of others.
Step 3. Transfer the design with carbon paper
Trace or print a sketch of the design you want to make. Place the carbon paper face down on the wooden board, tape it down, and place the paper with your design on top of the carbon paper. Then with a 2B pencil trace the image with a fluid stroke and without pressing too much. Remove the carbon paper and go over the drawing on the wood, again with the same pencil 2B.
Step 4. Transfer the design with a tip to transfer
It is a flat tip that uses heat to transfer ink from an image printed directly onto the wood. Scan or search the Internet for the image you want to use. Print the image, preferably with a laser printer. Then he fixes the sheet firmly on the wood and begins to pass the tip to transfer. Slowly, calmly, pass the tip over the back of the print, in the areas where there is ink. Remove the paper and admire the transferred design.
Part 3 of 3: Practice
Step 1. Place the wooden board in a comfortable place so that you can easily work with the tip
It takes a little while, but you may want to readjust your position frequently. If you are all bent over your work and keep the tip dangerously close to your belly, you will end up struggling more than necessary.
Step 2. Start machining from the bottom edge or to the side
So, if you make mistakes, the flaw will be less noticeable. In any case, rest assured: you will be able to erase most mistakes simply by using the sandpaper.
Step 3. Depending on the type of wood, don't be afraid to go over the same area of the drawing even three or four times
Remember, keep the stretch light. Apply just enough pressure to maintain tip control. During processing, move the pyrograph by pulling it towards you, not pushing it far; if possible, rest your wrists on the wooden board.
Step 4. Complete the outlines first
Immediately draw the lines that form the design, so that they are permanently fixed.
Step 5. Then, experiment with various strokes and shading
If you intend to make images with a three-dimensional look instead of the usual two-dimensional drawings, practice first using different tips, choosing those that can give you shading and various types of strokes. As usual, a few hours spent practicing on scrap pieces of wood will be invaluable when you dedicate yourself to the actual jobs.
Step 6. Add the color
At this point you are ready to add color to your image. Color is optional, and may be suitable for certain images but not for others. Use water colors and brushes of your choice. Watercolor pencils are very suitable.
Step 7. Periodically clean the used tips to make sure they are able to transfer all the heat developed to the wood
You can give the tips a quick pass on an abrasive block, or you can clean them (after letting them cool well) using a strop and aluminum oxide paste. This removes the carbon residues that remain attached to the tips. If you're not sure if the tips are very cold, soak them in cold water for a minute or two before touching them. Remember to always use pliers to remove any type of tip from the pyrograph.
Step 8. Think about equipping yourself with a vacuum cleaner to use during processing
All types of wood emit smoke in greater or lesser quantities; you will end up inhaling it and it may irritate your lungs. To reduce these problems, turn on a fan if you work indoors.
Step 9. Finally, give your work a protective coat of paint
This is the last step. Let it dry well, after which your work is truly complete.
Warnings
- Apply the protective paint outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Inhalation of paint vapors can be severely harmful.
- Always be very careful, because the pyrograph is very hot and contact with it can cause severe burns. Never leave the pyrograph turned on unattended, as it can cause fires.
