A picnic table is perfect for getting together with the family and is a fun project to build. This project in particular is great for lunches, because all the seats are facing the center and the items on the table will be within everyone's reach.
Steps
Step 1. Get everything you need (see the “Things You'll Need” section at the bottom of the article)
You need good quality wood, without knots or cracks, and not boarded. You can use solid wood or recycled wood covered in plastic. In our example we will use fir wood.
Prepare your work area so you can cut and assemble the pieces comfortably. You will need a table of at least 120 cm on each side, trestles and a place to rest the miter saw
Step 2. Draw the center table hex on your work table or plywood sheet
It will help you place the pieces correctly.
You can trace the hexagon with a square, by drawing a center line, approximately 4 cm longer than the width of the table, then mark a 60 degree angle on both sides of the line, find the center and draw two more lines. Connect the ends to create the hexagon
Step 3. Use the drawing you just made to find the length of the pieces that will make up the outer edge of the table
For our table, the six side pieces are 61cm long. Make a 30 ° cut on each end, resulting in a 60 ° angle. By joining the pieces two by two you will get an angle of 120 °.
Step 4. Join the ends to form a hexagon, using 6 cm galvanized (corrosion resistant) wood screws
Drill the holes first, so you don't break the wood with screws.
Step 5. Check that all sides are equal by measuring the distance between the parallel sides with a tape measure
For the table in our example, this measurement is approximately 114 cm. You can secure the hexagon to the worktable with a couple of screws to prevent it from moving until you have secured the internal spokes.
Step 6. Cut a 5x10 cm joist to size to be inserted between two opposite corners, making a 30 ° cut at both ends, on both sides
Step 7. Secure the piece at both ends with wood screws
Again, drill the holes first to avoid splits in the wood. This assembly will be the support for the table surface, so a good precision will correspond to a greater solidity of the final result.
Step 8. Cut the four spokes
Measure the length that the radius should have from the center of the hexagon to the corner. To cut corners, first mark the center of the 5 cm joist on each end. Then make two 30 ° cuts on the outer end. On the inside, make a 30 ° cut and the other 90 °, or cut both sides at 30 ° and then make an additional 60 ° cut on one side to get to 90 °.
Step 9. Secure the first two spokes to one side by placing screws in the head, through the center joist
The other two, on the other hand, will be fixed to the side. Pre-punch holes where possible to avoid cracking, especially when working very close to the ends.
Step 10. Check the hoop to make sure it is symmetrical and all sides are equal long
Check that the corners match both above and below. Planed wood can also vary slightly in thickness and width, so this step is important to get a good end result.
Step 11. Cut the six table supports and six corner pieces
The table legs in the illustrations are 25 cm long, while the corner pieces are 15 cm long, with an inclination of 45 °.
Step 12. Drill the holes to insert the screws
Secure each leg to the table, using 7cm long outdoor screws.
Step 13. Also fix the corner brackets and check if the mounting is correct
Step 14. Place a 5x10cm, 240cm long joist on two opposite corners of the hex, centering it
Then fix it with screws.
Step 15. Mark the center of this joist
Draw a line with a square on both sides to mark where the other joists will be attached. Cut 4, with the same 30 ° angle used previously.
Step 16. Attach these 4 joists to the middle one and, at the other end, to the legs previously fixed
If you want you can reinforce with other angles.
Step 17. Cut 6 pieces 30 cm long from another 5x10 cm joist, with a 30 ° cut on both ends
Secure them between the spokes to increase their stability. Make sure they are all the same length, as they will need to support the seats.
Step 18. Cut another six 35cm pieces (flat) and 6 25cm pieces, at a 45 ° angle at the ends
Step 19. Attach the 35 cm pieces to the ends of the spokes
Use larger screws for this step, as they will need to support the weight of the table and the people seated.
Step 20. Attach the diagonal supports to the legs, always making sure that each piece is square
Step 21. Check the final result to make sure the fasteners have a good seal and the structure is solid
Add screws if any fasteners seem weak, possibly replacing the veined pieces.
Step 22. Pull the frame off the workbench and flip it over so that it rests on its feet
The structure must not wobble. If a piece feels too long or out of square you can shorten it, but if you have done all the cuts and assemblies correctly it shouldn't be needed.
Step 23. Begin fixing the planks of the table
The illustrations show 3x15 cm boards with beveled edges. You can use the essence you prefer.
Step 24. Center the first board between two opposite corners, leaving about 7.5 cm of leftover at one end
Fix the board, then add the others until you finish one side.
Step 25. Draw a hexagon that is 7.5 cm wider than the underlying frame and cut the boards with a circular saw
Make sure you secure the boards well, otherwise they could embark if exposed to the elements.
Step 26. Finish covering the table, shorten the boards to size and sand the edges so that no one gets hurt by the splinters
Step 27. Place the seating planks on the joists that extend beyond the table
Each will have a 30 ° cut at the ends. The outermost plank must cover the table leg. Drill the holes before screwing the boards.
Step 28. Secure all of the seat boards, checking the angles and adjusting them so that each fits snugly against the next
Step 29. Sand the edges and round the corners to make the table safer
Step 30. Paint with an outdoor primer or water resistant paint
Now you can enjoy your table!
Advice
- Choose wood without knots, uneven edges or veins.
- Use galvanized or stainless screws. Screws will give a more durable result, but you can also use nails.
- An easy way to mark the cuts to be made on the joists of the structure is to place them on the central crosspiece and engrave the mark with a nail or a blade. You can use a larger mark to find the incision when it is time to cut. Do not use markers or crayons, as they leave a mark too thick for a neat cut.
- Choose an essence suitable for outdoor use. Spruce boards, for example, will board if not properly treated with an exterior paint.
- The finished table is very large and heavy, so get help moving it.
Warnings
- Make sure you use proper protection when working with power tools.
- Clear the counter.
- The screws are pointed. It is best to wear gloves.
- Wear safety glasses when cutting and screwing wood pieces.
- Outdoor paint contains toxic substances. Do not place food directly on the table.
- Every carpentry project presents risks, be careful!
