Orchids are exotic plants that produce beautiful flowers. Phalaenopsis, also known as moth orchid, is the most common variety, but there are many different species. With proper care, most orchids bloom at least once a year; each species has slightly different needs to grow and bloom, but the variables are always the same: temperature, water, substrate and humidity. By adapting the environment according to the specific variety you have chosen and with seasonal stimuli, you can guarantee the flowering of the plant.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Providing the Right Growth Environment
Step 1. Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species you have chosen
There are many varieties of orchids, but the moth (Phalaenopsis) is the most widespread and easiest to grow. This is the cultivar that you most often find for sale at florists and garden centers or nurseries. By placing the plant on a windowsill in the sun, you generally allow it to grow healthy and sturdy, as it loves bright light, but not direct sunlight.
- Some less common varieties have different needs for exposure to light; for example, Paphiopedilums (known as "Venus' slipper") and Miltonia do not like the direct one. It is best to arrange these plants near a north-facing window.
- Conversely, Cattleya, Dendrobiums (bamboo orchid), Oncidium (ballerina orchid) and Cymbidiums must have a lot of sunlight to be healthy; it is recommended to keep these varieties in front of a south or west facing window.
Step 2. Provide the right amount of water
Ideally, the moth orchid should be watered once a week during the dormant phase (when it is not growing and flowering) and twice during the active period. Instead, you should leave it dry between waterings; this means you only need to wet it when the potting material (which is usually a well-draining spruce bark mixture) appears dry, otherwise the plant could die. If the bark looks damp, it is still too early to water it again.
- Make sure the pot has drainage holes. Orchids do not develop if water stagnates in the pot.
- Get it wet early in the morning.
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Most orchids that live indoors should be watered every 5-12 days, depending on the variety and season:
- The Vanda and Ascocenda varieties have the same needs as the Phalaenopsis orchid.
- Venus slipper, Miltonia, Cymbidium and Odontoglossum prefer a substrate that is almost always humid.
- The varieties Cattleya, Oncidium, Brassia and Dendrobium prefer to remain constantly humid during the period of active growth, while in the other periods they prefer a dry reservoir between one watering and the other.
Step 3. Maintain a humid environment
Almost all orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a level of humidity they can hardly find in an Italian living room. During the winter, the average humidity in the home environment is 30%. The moth variety likes 40 to 70% humidity, while most other species thrive in an environment with an approximate 60-80% humidity. By changing the humidity according to the specific needs of the plant in your possession, you can make it grow better; keeping all the plants in the same area creates a humid environment.
- Consider installing a humidifier for the winter months; you can possibly consider buying special trays at a nursery that help create humidity around the plant.
- You can also keep the orchid in the bathroom - it will really appreciate the humid environment of this room. Place it on a windowsill where it can receive a lot of light, but make sure it is not exposed to direct sunlight.
Part 2 of 3: Stimulating Flowering
Step 1. Consider using full spectrum lamps
If the plant does not produce flowers, the most common cause is an insufficient supply of light. If you don't have the ability to provide it with an adequate amount of natural light, you can install this type of lamp in your home; you can buy a lighting system from nurseries or order it online.
- There are systems of different shapes and sizes suitable for every type of domestic space.
- You can also adjust the intensity of the light to suit the needs of the specific orchid variety you have chosen.
Step 2. Use a fertilizer formulated specifically for orchids
By feeding the plant with the correct fertilizer, you can stimulate faster growth and early flowering. Look for a product that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), preferably with traces of iron (Fe). Always read the label and carefully follow the instructions on the product before applying it to the plant; Also be sure to water the orchid before fertilizing it.
- Some orchid fertilizers are in the form of granules or dry product; in these cases, you have to dissolve them in water before sprinkling them.
- Dry ones are very concentrated, and you should never apply them as they are; when the granules have dissolved in water, pour the mixture onto the substrate.
Step 3. Fertilize the orchid only once a month during the active season
Typically, this phase runs from March until the end of November. Do not apply fertilizer from mid-December until mid-February, otherwise you can slow down development and the plant may not flower. If you overdo it, you risk burning the roots, the leaves and obviously you won't be able to see the flowers sprouting.
- Read carefully the instructions on the fertilizer package you bought, as there may be slight differences depending on the product.
- Remember to apply it immediately after the flowers have lost color, in order to stimulate a new flowering; repeat the treatment when new leaves or buds appear and begin to grow.
Step 4. Lower the temperature by 10 degrees during the night
Phalaenopsis orchids are very sensitive to temperatures; in nature, their flowering is stimulated by the arrival of autumn and by a reduction in night lows. If the plant is not exposed to periods of cold nights even when living indoors, it may not develop buds or buds. If the plant is on a windowsill, it can probably feel a little bit of the drop in outside temperatures; however it may not be enough to make it bloom. Every night, before going to bed, lower the thermostat by 10 degrees.
- Living for a week or two in lower night temperatures, the orchid typically blooms as long as its growth cycle is respected.
- Plants belonging to the Phalaenopsis variety need a night temperature of 15-16 ° C and a daytime temperature of 25 ° C.
Step 5. Make sure the place where you keep the orchid is ventilated
Stale air prevents the plant from blooming. Orchids grow in an environment where fresh air always circulates. While humidity may be necessary, it can get too heavy if not properly ventilated. Make sure the air around the plant is always fresh by opening windows or keeping a low-intensity fan in the area.
Part 3 of 3: Controlling the Orchid
Step 1. Pay attention to the season
Each species has its own growing season, which is the time of year when it blooms naturally; if your plant is currently not in this phase, it will not develop flowers. Most cultivars, including the Phalaenopsis variety, produce new leaves during the summer months. The buds and buds develop in late autumn, while the flowers open soon after; flowering continues until spring and ends around mid-February.
- Plants belonging to the Phalaenopsis variety typically develop flowers once a year, which then last for several months.
- When the flowers fall, new buds can appear in the same spot, but that's not a fixed rule.
Step 2. Check the color of the leaves
If the orchid does not bloom, the cause is usually a lack of light. One of the best ways to tell if the plant is not exposed to enough light is to evaluate the color of the leaves. A healthy orchid, when the need for sunlight is met, has bright green leaves; if the hue approaches dark green, the plant must receive more light. Move it to a sunnier area of the house, such as near a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is too exposed to light and in this case you need to move it to an east or north facing room.
If you put a Phalaenopsis on a windowsill facing south, you probably need to filter the light with a blind or curtain; most orchids like a lot of light, but not direct light
Step 3. Look at the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If you feel that they have withered or shriveled, the orchid needs more water; you should always water it more often when it is in the active phase of flowering. In the quiescent period (ie when it does not bloom), water it only once a week; in the active phase, water it twice a week instead.
- Increase your water intake when you see the new buds and roots.
- Too abundant watering can quickly kill the plant; avoid leaving it in an impregnated reservoir material and with stagnant water.
Step 4. Evaluate the reservoir material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not thrive in normal soil; these plants need a substrate that guarantees rapid water drainage and good ventilation. A well-draining mixture of spruce bark is generally the most used potting material; if you can't figure out what current substrate the plant has rooted in, transfer it to a pot with fir bark.
- If the potting material is not well draining and ventilated, the orchid can suffocate and die.
- Most orchids are capable of growing on different materials, such as sphagnum, dry fern roots, peat moss, rock wool, perlite, cork shavings, pebbles, coir, lava stones or even a mixture that includes some of these materials.