A drip irrigation system is an efficient and convenient way to water your garden. It brings the water directly to the roots of the plants, thus reducing evaporation and dispersion caused by the wind. Connect it to a timer and your garden will be watered automatically, with very little maintenance.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Designing the system
Step 1. Divide the garden according to water needs
Before buying all the material, you need to know exactly what you need. Draw a rough map of the garden or area you want to irrigate with the drip system. Divide the floor plan into different zones based on one or more of the following criteria:
- Water needs of each plant. Identifies as abundant, medium or scarce.
- Exposure to sunlight or shade. If most of your plants need the same water, then consider exposure to sunlight to divide the garden. Plants in full sun need more water than plants in shade.
- Soil type: take into account the main variations in the composition of the soil in your garden. Read step 5 for more information.
Step 2. Draw a plant project
A standard drip tube is usually a maximum of 60 m long, or 120 m if the water enters the central line of the system. If you need more than one hose, you can connect them together to a tap-fed side line. In large gardens, a pressurized main duct is used instead of the lateral line. Draw a sketch of the system on the map.
- In theory, each drip tube should irrigate an area of the garden that is uniform from the point of view of water needs.
- The "distribution pipes" are a smaller alternative to drip pipes. They reach a maximum length of 9 m and are recommended only for potted or hanging plants, to prevent them from becoming clogged.
- The main duct usually runs along the entire length of the garden or along the perimeter if the property is very extensive.
Step 3. Decide how to bring the water to each area
There are several methods of getting it from the drip tubes to the plant. Determine which technique is best suited to your needs:
- Drippers: are the most common solution, they can be inserted into the pipe at any point along its length. Read the following information about the various types of drippers.
- Pre-assembled drippers: they are pipes with drippers already installed at regular distances along the entire length. They are suitable for orchards, rows of vegetables and crops.
- Porous pipes: they are the cheapest solution and allow water to drip along their entire length. They do not give the possibility to control the water pressure and the flow rate. They get clogged easily and have a rather short maximum length.
- Micro-sprinklers: these are elements halfway between traditional sprinklers and drippers, they are low pressure nozzles, less efficient, but which are difficult to clog. Keep them in mind if your home water is rather rich in limestone.
Step 4. Narrow the choice of drippers
If you have decided for these elements, know that there are several models to choose from. The standard ones, with turbulent flow, are an excellent choice suitable for all needs. However, also consider the following models based on your specific circumstances:
- Buy self-compensating drippers, if in your garden there are variations in height greater than 1.5 m, but avoid them if the system is at low pressure. Do some online research on this product before purchasing, as there are no standard parameters.
- The adjustable ones are equipped with a knob to increase or decrease the speed of the water flow; however, they cannot compensate for pressure well. They are only recommended for plant lines that need a few high-volume water drippers or that provide for watering plants with varying water needs.
- Turbulent flow drippers are a good, rather inexpensive option suitable for all other situations. Those with vortex, compensating membrane and those for extended implants are all valid elements, since they have less important characteristics than those described previously.
Step 5. Consider the flow rate and distance between the emitters
At this point you must understand how many drippers you need; these elements have a certain flow rate, usually expressed in liters per minute. Here are some guidelines that are based on the type of terrain:
- Sandy soil: it is a type of earth that breaks down into small grains when you rub it between your fingers. In this case, use 4-8 l / h drippers spaced 28 cm apart.
- Fatty and humus-rich soil: it is a good quality soil, not too dense or loose. Place the 2-4 l / h drippers at 43 cm from each other.
- Clayey soil: it is a very dense earth, rich in clay that slowly absorbs water. Use 2 l / h drippers spaced 51 cm apart.
- If you have decided to use micro-sprinklers, distribute them so that the distance between them is 5-7 cm greater than the values indicated above.
- If you have trees or other plants that require a lot of water, then install the drippers in pairs. Do not use different models distributed at varying distances for the same line.
Step 6. Purchase the material
In addition to the hoses and drippers, you will need plastic adapters for each connection, as well as a plug or non-return valve for each drip hose. Read the instructions in the next section to learn about all the extra elements you will need to connect the system to the water source.
- Before proceeding with the purchase, check all the gauges of the pipes and the types of threads. To connect pipes with different sizes you will need adapters.
- If you have decided to use side lines, use regular PVC irrigation pipes. Cover them with several layers of aluminum tape to protect them from sunlight.
- If you have chosen to install a main duct, then use copper, galvanized steel, PEX, sturdy PVC or thick polyethylene piping. Bury the PVC pipes or cover them with masking tape to protect them from the sun. 20mm pipes and valves are usually sufficient for domestic installations.
- Most home irrigation systems use 13mm diameter drip hoses.
Part 2 of 3: Connect the Water Source
Step 1. Install the main tube if needed
If you have thought of a main duct in your project, install it as if it were an extension of the home water system. Close the main valve and remove the tap to which you will connect the hose. Finally, through a connector, it securely fixes the main irrigation system pipe to that of the removed tap. Add new taps along the main duct where you want to insert driplines. Cover all fittings with Teflon tape to prevent leaks.
The following elements must be installed after each tap of the main duct
Step 2. Attach a Y connector (optional)
This element allows you to use the tap even after the irrigation system has been connected. The rest of the system is fixed to one "arm" of the Y while a garden hose or another tap can be connected to the other.
Step 3. Mount a timer (optional)
If you want to water the garden automatically, then fix the timer to a Y connector. You can set it to activate the water flow at specific times of each day.
You can find an element already combined with timer, non-return valve and / or filter to save money and work
Step 4. Fit a non-return valve
In many regions this element is required by law, so as to prevent contaminated water from re-entering the drinking water system. Read the instructions on the packaging of this valve before purchasing it. Some models need to be installed at a certain height above the drip hoses for them to be effective.
The anti-siphoning ones do not work if they are installed upstream of other valves, so they become of little use in most irrigation systems
Step 5. Add a filter
The dripping pipes get clogged easily due to rust, limescale deposits and other particles present in the water. Use a 100 micron or larger wire mesh filter.
Step 6. If necessary, install a pressure regulator
It is also called "pressure reducing valve" and helps you, as the term suggests, to regulate the water pressure within the irrigation system lines. Install this element if your system pressure exceeds 2.8 bar.
Use an adjustable valve if you install it upstream of four or more non-return valves
Step 7. Insert side lines if needed
If you have more than one drip hose connected to the tap planned, then install the PVC side pipes. Each dripline destined for that sector of the garden will be connected to the corresponding lateral PVC pipe.
Don't forget to protect the side lines from sunlight by covering them with aluminum tape
Part 3 of 3: Connect the Drip System
Step 1. Mount the driplines
Use a pipe cutter to adjust the length to your needs. Insert each wing into a connector and fix the latter to the pressure regulator or lateral line. Spread the driplines over the surface of the garden.
- Do not bury these pipes, otherwise they will be gnawed by the rodents. Cover them with mulch, if you want to hide them, once the installation is complete.
- Add pressure control valves before each dripline if you want to adjust the flow rate later or close them individually.
Step 2. Stake the drip tubes
Secure them where you placed them using regular garden pegs.
Step 3. Connect the drippers
If you have decided to use micro sprinklers or drippers, you will need to attach them to the drip hoses. Use a small pointed tool to pierce each tube and firmly insert the element.
Do not use a nail or other makeshift tool, as it may leave an uneven-edged hole and cause leakage
Step 4. Put a cap on the end of each tube
Attach a drain valve or plug to the end of each dripline to prevent leakage at its end. While it may be sufficient to bend the tube at the end and clamp it with a clamp, caps or valves are more suitable because they allow you to inspect and clean the tube in case of traffic jams.
Step 5. Test the system
Set the timer in manual mode and open the water tap. Adjust the opening of the tap or the pressure control valves until the various drippers release a slow and constant flow of water. When you're done, set the timer according to your garden's needs.
If you notice any leaks, you can fix them with Teflon tape
Advice
- Mount a valve at the lowest point of the drip system, so the system can be emptied in winter.
- If you are not sure about the flow capacity of the system, you can try to calculate how many liters of water come out of the tap in a minute. Multiply this value by 60 and you will get the liters per hour. This is the maximum flow rate of the entire system.
- If you already own an underground spray irrigation system, you can purchase a kit to convert it to a drip system.
Warnings
- If two pipes begin to screw into each other but you are unable to fully tighten the connection, they probably have two different types of threads. You'll need a specific threaded adapter (if the two ends don't line up at all, get a male-to-male or female-to-female adapter).
- Pay attention to the measurement system, sometimes the caliber of the pipes is expressed in inches or millimeters; make sure all connectors, adapters and tubing comply with the same system.
