An irrigation system will help you have a lush green garden, even when drought makes your neighbor's one dry. This is not a beginner's job, but with some research and effort it can be done.
Steps
Step 1. Prepare a scale drawing of the garden and the areas to be watered
This way you can have a plan of the pipes and sprinklers that you will then buy.
Step 2. Divide the areas into rectangles (if possible) of approximately 100 square meters
These are the zones or areas that will be watered as a single unit. Larger areas require special sprinklers and a greater volume of water than is not normally obtained in residential water systems.
Step 3. Choose the irrigator or sprinkler suitable for the area you want to treat:
use the pop-up or turbine type for large areas of lawn, static or bubbler for bushes or flowers, and fixed pop-ups when near buildings or paved areas such as driveways and roads.
Step 4. Mark the placement of each sprinkler according to the distance of the head you have chosen
The Rain Bird R-50 is a good quality head, and produces an arc, semicircle, or full circle spray with a diameter of 7-9 meters, so they can be placed about 12 meters to allow for some overlap.
Step 5. Count the number of heads you use in an area and add the volume of water per minute for each one
Normal turbine heads can be set from 1.5 gpm to 4 gpm, depending on the nozzle diameter. Fixed pop-ups go at around 1 gpm. Calculate the total volume of water of all the heads and use the result for the pipes. As a rule, an area with 5-7 heads requires 12-15 gpm, with water pressure at a minimum of 20 psi. To supply this water you will need a 2 cm main pipe, with 3/4 or 1/2 branches.
Step 6. Draw the main line from the point where you intend to install the control valves, timer (if automatic) and the backwater
Step 7. Draw branches from the main pipe to the sprinkler heads
You can take branches to more than one head if you use 3/4 length pipes, but limit yourself to two. Along the line you can decrease the main tube to a diameter of 3/4 inch, also, as towards the end it will only supply water to 2 or 3 heads.
Step 8. Use the pattern to mark where the pipe ditches and heads will be, and mark them with signs, flags or other anchored to the ground
If you use PVC pipes, the dimples do not need to be perfect since it is a fairly elastic material.
Step 9. Dig the ditches
Use a hoe to cut through the turf and set the sod aside so you can put them back when finished. Use a shovel to dig at least 10 centimeters below the level at which the ground freezes. The dimple should be at least 20 centimeters deep to protect the tube even in hot weather.
Step 10. Place the pipes along the dimples, using tees, elbows and bushings to reduce the size of the pipes and lead them to the sprinkler heads
The "Funny pipe" is a flexible polyethylene pipe that is used for irrigation systems, has accessories that attach to the pipe sna need glue or pliers and has adapters that attach to the branches of the PVC pipes and to the heads of the sprinklers. This product allows you to adjust the heads in height and does not create problems if you pass over with a lawn mower or vehicle.
Step 11. Install the risers where the sprinklers will be placed, make sure that the hook at the end is the right size for the sprinkler head
Step 12. Attach the main line to the manifold to the timer or control valves using the appropriate valve for the type of control you are using
Step 13. Hook the water supply line to the hydraulic manifold
Use the backwater system so that in the event of a loss of pressure, the water does not pass from the irrigation system to drinking water with the risk of contaminating it.
Step 14. Open the zone check valve and let it sweep any debris from the pipes
It takes a couple of minutes, it is a good idea to do this before installing the sprinklers as this will prevent them from clogging up later.
Step 15. Install the sprinkler heads
Place them where you planned and place them deep enough so that they are supported by the ground and come out just above the ground level, at the height of the grass. Compact the soil around them to keep them in place.
Step 16. Reopen the zone valve, observe the spray and the area being covered and the direction of each head
You can change the rotation of the turbine heads from 0 to 360 degrees, the type of spray and the distance thanks to the possible adjustments on the head you have chosen. Read the instructions carefully because these characteristics can vary greatly depending on the manufacturer.
Step 17. Walk along the ditches in search of any water leaks
Once you have checked that there are none, close the valve and cover the ditches with soil compacting it well.
Step 18. Put back the clods that you raised at the beginning and rake the remaining roots and stones
Step 19. Once finished, move on to the next area
Advice
- Keep all tools, wrenches, etc. that can be used to adjust the heads for future use.
- Do not wet the lawn too much. Many experts recommend about 20mm of water every 3 or 7 days depending on the type of soil and climatic conditions. Wetting lightly and frequently will give you a lawn with low, weak roots.
- Whenever possible, use drought-tolerant plants and try to use native species that are acclimatized to the climate and therefore need less water.
- Many specialist centers offer complete irrigation projects if you have a good design of the area you need to irrigate. They also offer a list of parts, measurements, water consumption calculations and the types of sprinklers needed.
- If you use an automatic irrigation system, install a humidity or rain sensor. It is not necessary to run the system during or after a downpour.
- Keep pipes, valves, and all uncovered parts away from the weather, especially sunlight, which can ruin some types of plastics, and cold that can burst pipes.
- Before digging, check where the utility lines are.
Warnings
- PVC glue is highly flammable.
- Also prepare the system for winter, otherwise the pipes, valves and heads may burst if the water inside them freezes and expands.
- Before digging make sure you have located all the utility lines. Even a shovel can cut the line of the optical fiber or the telephone, and whoever causes the damage is responsible for the repair costs and the disruption.
- Dig very carefully, avoid household utilities, electrical circuits, and sewer lines.