Artists and press officers have engraved metal or wood for centuries and there are entire volumes dealing with this art. Nowadays, there are laser cutters and other tools that are able to cut plastic, precious stones and all those materials that are particularly difficult to work with. Despite all these rich and varied technologies, you can start engraving with just a few tools.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Engrave the Metal
Step 1. Choose a tool
You can use the hammer and chisel, but a pneumatic "chisel" or "burin" gives you more stability and control without being overly expensive. If you already own a hand drill with a tungsten carbide tip, then you can try using it.
- Engraving tools are available with many different shaped tips. The square one with a "V" section is one of the most versatile.
- Sometimes, even if it is not a common choice, soft materials can be engraved with a compass or a small knife, even if it is difficult to perform precise work and ensure a good three-dimensional appearance of the finished product.
Step 2. Choose a metal object to practice with
If this is your first time approaching this art, you should avoid working on precious things like an antique watch. Instead, train on an object that you can damage without a problem. Some soft metals such as copper or some brass alloys can be engraved more easily and quickly than steel or other similar materials.
Step 3. Clean the metal
Use a damp cloth for this, then switch to a dry cloth to wipe off any residual moisture. If the surface is still dirty, scrub it with soapy water and then dry it.
If the metal is coated with a protective finish, as often happens with brass, it is not necessary to remove it. However, the processing will cut the finish, for this reason you will have to reapply it once the engraving is finished, if you want the color of the metal to remain uniform
Step 4. Draw or print the pattern
If you are going to engrave a small object for the first time, draw or print a simple decoration with well-spaced lines. Performing very detailed and elaborate work is rather complicated if you have no experience, and the final effect could be confused or smudged. It would be advisable to trace the decoration directly on the metal. If this is not possible, draw or print the image respecting | the proportions with the object and then follow the subsequent instructions to transfer it to the object.
If you have to engrave letters, try to trace them as evenly as possible by drawing them inside two parallel horizontal lines (with the help of a ruler)
Step 5. If necessary, transfer the decorative pattern to the metal
If the drawing is already on the object, skip this step. If you can't find the specific materials you need, search online for alternative techniques. But be aware that, very often, you will need to get special tools.
- Add some lacquer or shellac to the area you are going to engrave. Wait for it to become almost completely dry and slightly sticky.
- Draw the pattern on polyester (Mylar) film using a soft lead pencil.
- Cover the drawing with masking tape. Rub the adhesive tape well with a fingernail or a burnisher, then lift it with great care. At this point the design should have transferred to the scotch tape.
- Glue the tape to the lacquer-covered metal. Rub it again with a fingernail and then remove it.
Step 6. Secure the metal object with clamps
Processing will be much easier if the metal is clamped with clamps or in a vise: this way it cannot slip. You can use a hand clamp that allows you to grab it with a firm grip, but be aware that this solution presents a greater risk of cuts and scrapes. If you have decided to use an electric tool or a hammer and chisel (which require the use of both hands), it is best to clamp the object in a table vice.
Step 7. Engrave following the design
Use the tool you have chosen to transform the pencil drawing into an engraving. Apply the necessary pressure to the tip to remove small pieces of metal. For the first few attempts, keep the instrument at a constant inclination with the metal surface. Start by working straight lines in both directions until you get a visible, deep cut. Use this starting point to draw all the other lines. To engrave complex shapes, such as the letter “J”, first finish the straight portion, and then move on to the more difficult section that you haven't engraved yet.
Step 8. Get better
Engraving is an art form that provides for constant improvement throughout life. If you are interested in new techniques, engraving machines or want new practical advice to expand your "collection" of tools, know that there are many resources to draw on.
- Do some research online to find "forums on the art of engraving" where you can interact with a large community of engravers. If you are interested in a particular technique, you can find sub-forums dedicated to precious metals, steel or other methods of metal engraving.
- Find some textbooks. In a book, you will find much more detail than is available online. If you are not sure which manual to start with, you can find out in an internet forum.
- Study at your city's engraver shops. This means signing up for a course or finding a craftsman who offers seminars. If you are really serious, apply as an apprentice at some laboratory where you will work in exchange for experience, or sign up for some one-year course.
Method 2 of 3: Engrave Wood with Power Tools
Step 1. Choose a rotating tool
Virtually all tools like the dremel or the cutter they are available with wood tips. A tabletop cutter may be the best solution if you want to achieve an even depth of cut and work with ease, and is highly recommended for tracing letters and other simple engravings. Alternatively, a hand tool allows you to change the angle of the incision and allows you to experiment with different cutting styles.
- When using rotary tools the use of protective goggles is strongly recommended to avoid eye damage caused by fragments that are dispersed in the air.
- If you decide to engrave complex and extremely detailed motifs, use a CNC machine ("computer numerical control" in English).
Step 2. Choose an engraving tip
There are different types and you can connect them to the end of your tool to obtain different cuts. The cylindrical and "bullnose" tips are very useful, respectively, for flat or hollow surfaces, while the flame (or drop) tip allows you to obtain greater control over the cut and to change the incision angle. There are many other forms suitable for specific works, if you decide to develop this art better.
Step 3. Draw or transfer a decoration onto the wood
When engraving this material, the amount of detail is limited only by the size of your cutting tool and the precision of your hands. If you don't feel comfortable drawing freehand on wood, print the pattern on a thin polyester film, such as Mylar, and tape it to the surface.
Step 4. Review the design with the engraving tool
Turn on the tool you have chosen and, gently, place it on the wood. Make steady and slow movements, going over all the decoration. You will notice that the incision does not have to be very deep to get a good three-dimensional effect, so start with a light hand: you can go over it a second time later, if you are not satisfied.
Step 5. Paint the wood (optional)
If you want the incision to stand out even more, paint the cut area. The original, flat part must be colored with a different shade to make the design stand out. The varnish or a transparent primer will protect the wood from wear and cracks.
Method 3 of 3: Hand Engrave Wood for Printing
Step 1. Choose your engraving tools
There are many hand tools (not electrically powered) that you can use. If you want to create very detailed images, like those you can see in 19th century books, choose two or three different tools to get different effects. Here are the three tools traditionally used for manual wood engraving:
- There gouge it is used to obtain fluid lines.
- The burin produces uniform lines but, by changing the incision angle, it also manages to change its thickness.
- The chisel, with a rounded or square tip, is able to eliminate large portions of wood to produce white spaces once the image is printed. It is not necessary, if you do not plan to print.
Step 2. Apply a thin layer of ink to the wood
Take a small bottle of black pen ink and brush or lightly smear it with a cloth all over the flat surface of the wooden block. This way you can see the cut parts more clearly, so it is important not to use too much color, to prevent the wood from absorbing it even under the surface.
Step 3. Check that the surface is ready
Wait until the ink is completely dry. At this point, check for a rough "fluff" on the wood. If so, scrub the block vigorously with a paper towel.
Step 4. Place the wood on a stand (optional)
A small leather pad filled with sand is the most suitable surface on which to engrave the wood, as it offers good support regardless of the angle you hit. There is no need to clamp the wood with a table vise, as you will have to move it as you engrave.
Step 5. Grab the tool
Hold it as if it were your computer mouse with the cup-shaped hand where the handle rests. Press on one side of the metal stem with your index finger and on the other with your thumb. Let the large portion of the handle rest in the palm of your hand; when you engrave, press on this portion of the instrument.
Step 6. Engrave the wood
Press the tool onto the surface at a not too wide angle. With the other hand, slowly rotate the wooden block as you increase the pressure on the tool. Do not advance more than an inch at a time before changing your hand position. It will take some practice to get a precise cut.
- If the tool gets stuck in the wood too quickly and gets stuck, then you have used a too narrow angle.
- The "burins" can be gradually tilted to form narrower or wider angles to make the engraved lines wider or thinner. Again, you have to practice to use the tool correctly, but it is a very useful skill for wood engraving.
Step 7. Try different techniques
One way to start wood carving is to first proceed with the edges of the image, leaving a little margin and then define the details with a thinner tool. There are many methods to recreate shading in a stylized way, but the most common is to engrave many parallel lines that overlap (just as if you were to draw "pouring rain"), since it produces a natural effect.
Step 8. Add ink to the "mold"
Once the block has been engraved, you can transfer the image to the paper as many times as you want. Purchase a tube of oil-based ink for embossing. Squeeze a small amount onto the flat part of the wood and, with a rubber hand roller, spread a thin layer over the entire surface. If necessary, add more ink and always distribute it with the roller until you get an even surface.
Step 9. Transfer the design to the paper
Lay a piece of paper on top of the inked block of wood, being very careful not to move it once it comes into contact with it. Scrub the back of the paper with a burnisher or other flat object. Lift the sheet when it has been well pressed and, at this point, you should be able to see the printed image. Repeat this as often as necessary, adding more ink if the block dries.
- If the burnisher does not flow easily, rub it into your hair to grease it just enough to facilitate operations without staining the sheet.
- Look for a "press burnisher", as there are other tools with this name but they are suitable for other projects.
Step 10. Clean the tools
After a printing session, remove the ink from the engraved wooden block and tools using white spirit or seed oil and a clean rag. Store the "mold" for future use if you plan to print again.
