Having kittens in your home is an exciting time, but it's not just about feeding and cleaning them. The way you interact with them from birth will affect their friendly disposition as they become adults. When you raise newborn kittens, hopefully it's the mother who does most of the work. However, an unexpected event can still occur and you may have to take care of the offspring - for example, the mother is unable to care for them or refuses them. This guide will help you understand the needs of kittens during their growth stages in terms of health care, nutrition and socialization.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Helping the Mother-Cat Give Birth and Care for Kittens (0 to 4 Weeks)
Step 1. Set up a quiet place for the birth
The cat has probably already chosen a place where she feels safe to give birth to the kittens. Either way, get her a large cardboard box, turn it on its side and fill it with warm, dry fabrics, but don't be disappointed if she decides to move differently. It is her instinct that tells her to find a quiet and sheltered area, such as under a bed, behind the sofa or inside a kitchen cabinet.
If you want more information on how to help a kitten give birth, read this article
Step 2. Do not disturb her during delivery and the first two days
The first 48 hours are a crucial time for the mother to bond with her pups, so try not to disturb her. If she gives birth under the bed, leave her there alone. If you decide to move the newborn kittens, the mother becomes anxious and at worst she may even reject them. Once she has a strong bond with them, about four or five days later, you can move the kittens if you feel it is necessary.
Step 3. Leave food, water and litter in the room
The mother does not want to be away from her cubs for too long during the first two weeks of life. So make sure she always has water and food easily accessible from the "nest" and, if possible, also put the litter box in the same room so she can stay close and hear the kittens meow.
If the food is in another room, some mothers may even decide to starve rather than abandon their newborn babies to eat
Step 4. Feed the new mum some puppy food
At this stage it needs more calories than usual to produce milk.
Step 5. Let the mother clean as much as possible of the puppies and the place where she gave birth
Her instincts once again help her keep the nest clean. Newborn kittens cannot urinate and defecate on their own, so the mother has to lick their butt before and after feeding to stimulate them to evacuate. In this way it also keeps the environment clean. Try to disturb the new family as little as possible.
If the tissues you put in the box get dirty, wait until Mom leaves to go to the litter box before picking them up and replacing them with clean ones
Step 6. Check that all puppies are being fed
If the mother cat is present, the kittens should be nursed immediately as soon as the last one is born. At this age they still spend most of their time sleeping and only wake up to drink milk every two to three hours. If it seems to you that they are not being nursed or that a kitten is being pushed off the nipples by its siblings, you must bottle feed it as described in the next section.
Step 7. Consider having the new mother sterilized
Veterinarians and animal advocacy associations strongly recommend spaying (which involves removing the uterus) after the kittens have been nursed for as long as necessary. This avoids the birth of unwanted litters (and problems related to their management) and can also bring some health benefits to the cat.
Step 8. Start thinking about worm treatment
You can administer it as early as they are only two weeks old if needed. Consult your veterinarian for the most suitable drug and the right dosage.
Part 2 of 4: Caring for Orphaned Kittens (0-4 Weeks)
Step 1. Feed the puppies with a milk replacer
You can buy formula formula from a veterinary clinic, major pet stores, or online. For cats this is the equivalent of infant formula, with the same composition as the mother's milk. On the package you will find the guidelines on the methods and dosages to be administered at each meal.
Do not give cow's milk to kittens, because the lactose it contains alters the balance of their stomach. If you do not have a breastmilk substitute immediately available and the kitten is hungry, boil some water for now, cool it and put it in a dropper or syringe to give it to him while waiting for you to get formula milk from the veterinary clinic or pet store. The water keeps the kitten hydrated and does not cause damage to his stomach
Step 2. Use a bottle and teat specifically designed for kittens
You can always buy them at the veterinary clinic, in major pet stores or on the internet. In an emergency, use a dropper or small syringe to give him the formula directly into his mouth.
Step 3. After each meal, make sure your puppy is digesting
To do this, you need to do just like you would a baby: hold the kitten straight against your shoulder or put your hand under its belly. Gently pat it and rub it on your back.
Step 4. Stimulate the kitten to evacuate
Before and after each feed, wipe their butt with a paper towel or gauze soaked in warm water. This stimulates him to do his business, which otherwise he would not be able to do. Place the puppy on top of the litter box and use a sponge to scrub his genitals and anal area after each meal. Repeat this procedure until you finish urinating and defecating (when nothing comes out).
- Rub it in one direction only, otherwise it may irritate the area.
- Cotton balls or facial cleansing pads are not recommended as they leave lint.
Step 5. Check that your stool and urine are healthy looking
Urine should be pale yellow and odorless, while stool should be yellowish-brown in color and in the shape of thin logs. If the urine is dark and with a pungent smell, it means that the cat is dehydrated; green stools can be a sign of overeating, while white stools could indicate malabsorption, a serious problem. Contact your vet if you are unsure.
- If the kitten does not urinate for 12 hours, you must take him to the vet right away.
- Most puppies evacuate once a day, although this varies for each individual. In any case, you need to take him to the doctor if your kitty does not discharge for more than two days.
Step 6. Respect fixed meal times
In the first two weeks of life, you need to feed the puppies every two to three hours throughout the day. Kittens let you know when they're hungry because they cry and squirm like they're looking for a nipple. When the kitten is full he often falls asleep even while he is still drinking and you should notice the belly filling and becoming round. After two weeks, meals can be given every three to four hours, with a six-hour break during the night.
Step 7. Keep puppies warm with an electric warmer
Newborn kittens (less than two weeks of age) cannot regulate their body temperature and usually stay warm by curling up on their mother's body. You can simulate this condition by keeping them on a heated pad specifically for baby animals. However, make sure that they do not remain in direct contact with the mat, otherwise they could risk burns or suffer from heat stroke. Typically, however, these warmers are sold already wrapped in a wool blanket, so they shouldn't be a problem except when you take the cover off to wash it, in which case be sure to replace it with a towel.
As the kitten grows (more than two weeks), it is able to walk away from the heat source on its own if it is hot
Step 8. Never feed a kitten that is cold
If you feel that his body is cold, you need to gradually warm it up. You can tell her hypothermia from her ears and / or her paw pads that are cold to the touch. Put a finger in his mouth too: if you feel it is cold, it means that the kitten's body temperature is too low and is life threatening. In this case, slowly warm the cat by wrapping it in a wool blanket, then hold it against your body, gently rubbing it with your hands for an hour or two.
Step 9. Learn more about caring for orphaned kittens
First you can start by reading this article; you can also consult a veterinarian for information and suggestions. They can also provide you with vaccinations against common diseases and deworming treatments for puppies.
Orphaned kittens can be wormed from two weeks of age and, depending on their situation, they can be vaccinated between two and eight weeks of age. Know that when they are orphans they may have a weaker immune system because, unlike other kittens, they have not received antibodies from their mother's milk
Part 3 of 4: Wean and Socialize the Puppies (4-8 Weeks)
Step 1. Start leaving extra food outside the nest
If the mom is around, the weaning process (the transition from breast milk to solid food) happens naturally since they are about four weeks old. At this stage, mom gets tired of the kittens continuing to suck on her nipples and starts spending time away from them. In turn, the hungry kittens begin to explore and look for alternatives to milk and usually notice the mother's food.
By starting to eat a few bites of the new mother's food, the weaning process actually begins
Step 2. Make sure they always have water
Kittens don't need water until they start weaning, around four weeks old. All puppies who have already reached this age, however, should always have a bowl full of water available. Change the water whenever it gets dirty (as kittens tend to walk and / or evacuate into the bowl).
Step 3. Put some cat food in the bowl if you raised the kittens without their mum
If you have had to bottle feed them, the weaning process is similar. Sometimes it can help to put some milk replacer in a saucer and put your finger just below the surface to teach cats to eat from the bowl for the first time. Afterward, you can mash some food soaked in formula milk to create an easy-to-swallow puree. As they become familiar with soft food and enjoy eating it, you can start giving them more calories in solid form.
Step 4. Get the puppies used to familiarize themselves with the external environment by making new things available to them
Socialization is a key process when they are three to nine weeks old. From the time they are three weeks old you should be with them as much as possible every day. You should let them know the different images and sounds, such as vacuum cleaner, hair dryer, bearded men, children and so on, everything that comes to your mind. During these six weeks the kitten is more open to new experiences and everything he encounters and comes into contact with will now be accepted when he is an adult, thus making him a happy, well-balanced and sociable cat.
- Get some cat toys, such as balls, ropes or other objects to play with, but don't give them too small things for them to swallow (keep in mind that both adult and puppy cats can eat string or thread if they are left alone unsupervised. so leave these items at their disposal only if you are present too. Remember that they could risk suffocating).
- Avoid kittens associating people's fingers and hands with games, otherwise they may continue to bite and scratch them even as adults.
Step 5. Get a non-clumping litter box
Choose carefully the place to place the litter box, because, once they get used to it, the kittens continue to use that place for their needs. If you are training them to use the litter box on their own, simply place them in the litter tray after each meal or when you see them starting to squat and scratch the floor in preparation to defecate. Clean the litter box at least once a day, otherwise cats will stop using it.
- Choose a container with low edges so that it is easy for kittens to get in and out.
- Avoid clumping litter, as these cats could eat bits of it and damage the digestive system.
Step 6. Keep your new friend at home until he has all his vaccines
When the vet allows it, you can take him out to explore the external environment. Make sure you watch him carefully until you are certain he is able to go home.
Leave it outside when it is a little hungry. Get him to come back by calling him by name and showing him the food. This will remind him that even though being outdoors is fun, his final destination is always your home
Step 7. Give kittens responsibly
Whether you decide to sell them or give them away, you still have to wait until they are at least eight weeks old, although twelve weeks is even better. Take them to the vet and start vaccinating them before giving them away. Make sure that even when they are with their new owners they will be vaccinated regularly and that they will be spayed or neutered according to the established schedule. Swap the phone number with the new owners so you can feel confident that your cats are now in good hands or if the owners want to return the kittens back to you tomorrow (so you can help them find another home).
Part 4 of 4: Caring for an Adopted Kitten (8 Weeks and Over)
Step 1. Ask the person in charge of the cattery or animal welfare association you contacted to leave you the blanket that has absorbed the smell of the puppy's mother and siblings
These smells will help him find comfort during the first few moments in his new home.
Step 2. Find out what kind of food your cat has eaten so far
Feed him the same way for the first few days, so he doesn't feel exposed to too many changes at once. Once he has settled in, you can start changing his diet and feeding him whatever you like, although a gradual change should be made. Replace a small amount of their original food with new ones, slowly increasing the amount over a week.
- If your kitten is eating dry kibble, leave the bowl outside for the day. If, on the other hand, he is used to eating wet food from cans, give him his small meals every six hours.
- Keep feeding him puppy food, not adult cat food, until he reaches one year of age.
Step 3. Always provide him with water
Cats over four weeks old need to drink, so you should always have a bowl of fresh, clean water available.
Cats drink more easily if the water is not next to the food bowl. So encourage your kitty to drink too by placing several bowls of water in different spots throughout the house
Step 4. Get the kitten used to your home slowly
Initially leave him alone in one room: if he had to face the whole house already on the first day he would be overwhelmed. Set up a kennel (preferably one with sides and a roof so that the cat feels as safe as in a nest) and put some food and water in one corner while the litter box should be in the opposite corner. Show the puppy where his "bathroom" is, then let him rest. The first day in a new home is an important and particularly stressful time for him, so it is good to let him rest and sleep for a couple of hours.
Step 5. Give him as much attention as possible
Try to spend a lot of time with him, comb his fur, play, keep him moving and interact with the cat. This helps him grow and become a social adult.
Step 6. Keep the puppy and your belongings safe
Electric cables and electronic devices must be stored out of his reach, so that he cannot chew them. Child safety locks are a good investment for low cabinets and if your cat is particularly curious.
Step 7. Schedule a visit to the vet
When the puppy is nine weeks old, it can be given the first vaccination. This is also an ideal time to allow the vet to check him for worms and schedule future vaccinations. Kittens are usually vaccinated against feline flu and feline panleukopenia. There is also the option of injecting the feline leukemia vaccine.
Advice
- Slowly introduce the puppies to the rest of the family. Kittens under two weeks old should be kept away from other pets, except mother cat (if present) and only touched if necessary. Older pups should be left in the nest and only approached by one person at a time as long as they are calm and no longer hiding from people.
- When introducing a cat to another pet, hold the puppy in your lap and ask another person to hold the other pet. Let them sniff or lick each other, then allow the kitten to hide if they wish.
- Always wash your hands with soap and water (or another product) before and after touching puppies younger than eight weeks. Before this age a cat, especially if it comes from a cattery, could have contagious diseases for you; also, her immune system may be too weak to resist the bacteria on your hands.
- When lifting a cat, remember to support its paws. Eventually you will learn how each cat likes to be held, but in the beginning it is best to follow the rule of offering a base for all four legs. In this way, cats are calmer, do not panic and do not tend to scratch.
- Provide them with a scratching post. Cats love to use their nails and you probably prefer to have a worn scratching post rather than a tattered sofa. You can build one yourself by attaching a piece of old carpet to a vertical piece of wood.
- Never hit the cat. You would scare him and you could end up hurting him. Use the positive reinforcement technique, praise him when he behaves well, for example when he uses the scratching post.
- If you let puppies out, do so only in a fenced area and under your supervision. Also check the weather forecast, as cats don't have to get wet, cold or frightened.
Warnings
- Kittens play with just about anything. Make sure anything sharp and easy to swallow is out of their reach.
- If you are allergic to cats or puppies, living with them is strongly discouraged. The allergy can worsen and turn into asthma.
- The information contained in this article is not intended to replace the advice of a veterinarian or professional. If in doubt, consult your vet.
