Automatic watches, or those that rely on an internal mechanism to work, are back in fashion after the success of quartz ones. These models charge themselves thanks to the natural arm and wrist movements of the person wearing them. The movement transfers energy to the mechanism and allows the watch to run. No batteries are needed and therefore the clock is considered “clean energy”. While automatic ones don't need to be charged daily, it's always a good idea to check them from time to time to keep them running smoothly and prolong their life.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Charging the Watch
Step 1. Keep your arm moving
The automatic watch is designed with an internal oscillating weight, the rotor, which tracks your movements. The rotor is connected to the internal mechanisms which are attached to the main spring. When the rotor swings, it moves the toothed circles which, in turn, recharge the spring. This allows the mainspring to store energy and keep the watch running. If it is not moved or worn regularly every day, the spring loses its charge. If you wear your watch and move your arm normally, no further charging should be required. However, this doesn't mean you have to constantly move your arm, watches are built to react to natural movement over the course of a day.
- Usually the automatic models are able to conserve energy for 48 hours of autonomy.
- People who are not very active, such as the elderly, or those who are bedridden, will have to wind the watch by hand more often. If you are sick and confined to bed, then you will have to charge your watch with some consistency, as you cannot move regularly every day.
- Avoid wearing your watch when playing a sport that involves a lot of arm or hand movement (such as tennis, squash, or basketball). These exaggerated movements interfere with the watch's automatic mechanism which is built to wind with a smooth swing.
Step 2. Take the watch off your wrist
Even if an automatic model is designed to obtain energy thanks to the oscillation of the rotor that transfers it to the main spring, a manual periodic winding is still necessary to keep the spring in tension. To avoid putting unnecessary strain on the crown, you must remove the watch before proceeding. This way you can turn the crown correctly by pulling it out at the right angle.
Step 3. Locate the crown
It comes in a small button that is usually placed on the right side of the watch. This button can be pulled out to set the time and date. However, to wind the mechanism, it must not be pulled out, as it must remain connected to the internal sprockets. The crown usually has three positions, each of which allows it a specific function. The first position requires that the crown is fully pressed against the watch case and allows normal operation. To reach the second position you have to pull it until it reaches a first “tick”: in this way you can set the time and date (but it depends on the watch model). In the third position the crown is completely extracted and is used for setting the time and date, also in this case it varies according to the type of watch.
If your model is water resistant, the crown could be screwed down to provide a better water repellent seal. In this case you have to unscrew it by turning it with great care 4-5 times. When you have wound the watch, press the crown and screw it back to close it
Step 4. Turn the crown clockwise
Grab it between your index finger and thumb and gently rotate it clockwise (from the bottom towards 12 o'clock if you look at the watch directly on the dial). Make about 30-40 rotations or until the second hand starts moving. This way you have charged the watch. The winding allows the spring to stretch and accumulate energy which, in turn, keeps the watch running.
Contrary to popular belief, you cannot "overload" an automatic watch. Modern models are built to prevent this from happening. You should always make very gentle movements when turning the crown and stop at the first sign of resistance
Step 5. Set the time by always moving the hands forward
When you charge your watch, you may accidentally change the position of the hands. If this happens, adjust the time by always moving them forward. Your watch is built to accommodate a clockwise movement of the hands, so it's best not to force the mechanisms.
Step 6. Make sure the crown is fully pushed in to the first position
Push it against the watch case. If you have a waterproof model, you need to check that it is properly screwed in place. Grab it with your thumb and forefinger and squeeze it as you press it.
Step 7. Compare your watch movement to another working model
If it has been well loaded, it should keep the time smoothly. If you notice any anomalies, you should go to a watchmaker who can test it with his comparison machines. These tools measure the speed of the clock mechanism to see if it is moving too fast or too slow.
Step 8. If you haven't worn it for a while, please charge your watch fully
Automatic models need to move to work, so they may run out of power if they've been in the box or drawer for a few days. Rotate the crown 30-40 times to wind it fully and to make sure it is ready to wear. Turn the crown until the second hand starts to move, so you can check that it keeps the correct time. You will also need to adjust the date and time.
Part 2 of 3: Using a Charger
Step 1. Choose the charger suitable for your watch model
The charger is a tool that keeps automatic watches winding when they are not being worn. It oscillates in a circular direction imitating the natural movements of the human wrist. Its price is very variable (from 50 to 500 euros), but there are also top-of-the-range models that can even reach 8000 euros. In this case they are extravagant, elegant, almost show-off chargers.
- Functional chargers may be beautiful to look at too but be aware that they are built for a specific purpose and not to be flaunted. These models are usually the cheapest. The really very cheap ones can also be inaccurate and their purchase is never a big deal.
- Elegant chargers are often constructed of fine woods or leather, look good on display and make a good impression on a shelf or dresser. They are also small enough to fit in a safe or drawer.
- Particular chargers are the most expensive ones. They are built with highly sought-after materials and can also wind several watches at the same time. They have functions for temperature control, to synchronize the dials, can be placed in drawers and even have a USB connection.
Step 2. Decide how many watches you want to charge at one time
There are chargers for a single watch or multiple. If you have several watches that you wear in rotation with some frequency, you should think about a multiple model. If you only have one automatic watch that you wear often, then a single charger is enough.
- If you have multiple watches that you rarely wear, such as on special occasions, then you don't have to spend money to buy a charger. If you know you will be wearing the watch for a wedding, take it out of the drawer the day before and wind it up manually instead of complicating your life and putting it in a charger for 30 minutes a day.
- Chargers are very useful tools for automatic watch collectors, especially those who have a lot of them and want to wear one without programming.
Step 3. Evaluate the direction of rotation of the magazine
Many automatic watches need a clockwise movement to wind, others instead of an anti-clockwise one, still other models make no difference. Check the manufacturer's user manual to understand how to properly charge yours.
Part 3 of 3: Care and Protection of the Watch
Step 1. Keep the watch away from the magnets
Inside the mechanism there is a rocker spring, a very delicate component, which keeps the time correct. Exposing the spring to the magnets makes its spirals denser and the watch starts spinning faster. While it is not a problem to protect your watch from common magnets, remember that there are electronic devices (such as televisions, speakers, and iPads) that have internal magnets. If you notice that your watch is starting to "run" or is five minutes ahead, then it may have been exposed to magnetic fields that have interfered with the balance spring. Take the watch to a trusted shop and ask for it to be repaired.
Step 2. Protect the watch from water
Most models can withstand depths of around 30 meters, so the watch won't be damaged by an accidental fall into the lake. But if you have to regularly expose yourself to water, opt for a waterproof quartz model that can withstand great depths.
Step 3. Check the temperature
Watches can be severely damaged by extreme temperatures (cold and heat). Most modern models are resistant to temperature changes but if you have to go to a very hot or very cold place, take all necessary precautions.
Step 4. Clean the band frequently
The straps are made of different materials, from leather to metal to rubber. This depends on aesthetic issues and the use of the watch. Rubber bands, for example, are mounted on watches that can be used for swimming, boating and diving. Check the rubber for cuts or cracks and replace the band when it shows signs of sagging. Those in leather are quite sensitive to water, perfumes, sun creams and other liquids. Rub them with a specific oil from time to time to improve their appearance and prolong their life. Metal straps should be polished with a soft cloth.
Step 5. Clean your watch every 2 to 3 months
If you wear it every day or very often, it accumulates dirt, dead skin cells and other grime that needs to be removed. Use an old toothbrush and hot water to scrub the surface, especially where the band joins the case. If the band is metal, use the brush to clean it.
Step 6. Put the watch back
If you plan not to use it for some time, you should store it carefully to protect it from dust, moisture and thieves. It may also be helpful to use a specific lubricant to prevent it from sticking or deteriorating. Keep it in its original box or in an airtight container. If it's a particularly expensive model, you should put it in the safe. You can also store it in an autoloader.
Step 7. Check the gaskets and seals regularly if the model is water repellent
Water resistant watches lose their characteristics with use, exposure to sand and other elements. Check the seals on the dial, crown and case back to make sure no water can enter. If you notice any signs of wear, replace the seals. In this case it is better to take the watch to a shop for repairs, as the intervention of a specialized technician is essential.
Step 8. Do regular maintenance every 5 years
Very expensive models need to be serviced, just like cars, every five years. The gears may have lumps of lubricant blocking them or worn teeth. Take your watch to an experienced and qualified craftsman to arrange for repairs. This maintenance can probably cost up to a thousand euros (depending on the type of watch). But it is essential to keep your watch looking its best, prolong its life and keep a family heirloom you want to bequeath in perfect condition.
