Green beans are sensitive to some conditions, but in general, they are a fairly simple vegetable to grow in the summer and fall. You can grow bush or pole varieties under the same basic conditions. Whatever your choice, here's what you need to do.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: Part One: Preparation
Step 1. Choose which variety of green beans to plant
The two basic varieties are bush and climbing green beans. The first develop horizontally, the others will have to climb vertically on something.
- Recommended bush varieties include Bush Blue Lake and Bountiful.
- Recommended climbing varieties include Fortex and Kentucky Wonder.
Step 2. Choose a sunny spot for your plants
Green beans need a lot of sunlight to grow well, so try to plant the areas in your garden that get full sunlight.
Since green beans do not grow well in very moist soil, you should avoid shady areas, as shade has a tendency to make the soil retain moisture for longer periods
Step 3. Prepare the ground if necessary
Green beans grow well in partially clayey soils, so if your garden has too much clay or sandy soil, you should prepare it with organic material before planting your green beans.
- The partially clayey soil is dark and crumbly. Test the soil by holding it in your hands. The clayey soil remains balled up and the sandy soil crumbles together with fertilizer. Partially clayey soil should hold its shape initially, but fall apart when you touch it.
- If your soil is too clayey, sprinkle 2 inches of manure or compost over it and use a spade or pitchfork to turn it over to a depth of 30cm. You could also mix sawdust or sand into the soil if it is particularly heavy.
- If your soil is sandy, spread the same amount of manure or compost in the same way, but avoid using sawdust.
- Whatever the type of your soil, you should make sure the area is free of weeds, trash, stones and other debris.
Step 4. Apply fertilizer to the soil before planting the seeds
Green beans don't require a large amount of nutrients, but a light application of a balanced fertilizer can help your plants produce better yields.
Apply a 10-20-10 fertilizer. This type of fertilizer is slightly richer in phosphorus than nitrogen or potassium, so it is very suitable for producing high yields
Method 2 of 4: Part Two: Implantation
Step 1. Sow the seeds outdoors after the last spring frost
The minimum soil temperature for green beans is 9 ° C. If the soil temperature drops below this threshold, even just at night, the seeds may not germinate well.
The best soil temperature is 13 ° C. Ideally, the temperature should reach 25 ° C when the plants begin to sprout
Step 2. Prepare a trellis if needed
A trellis or other support is not necessary if you are planting bushy green beans, but if you have chosen a climbing variety, you will not be able to grow it effectively or get a good harvest without these supports.
- The simplest support you can use for green beans is a small 5 x 1.5m section of netting. Simply place the net behind the planting area before planting.
- You could also use a traditional pyramid trellis or a metal or plastic post. Place these supports just behind the planting area and make sure their last 10 cm are buried.
Step 3. Plant each seed 2.5 to 5cm deep
Each seed should be 5-10cm away from the others and lightly covered with loose soil.
If your soil is a bit sandy, plant the seeds deeper
Step 4. Apply mulch
A classic mulch of wood chips is very suitable for green beans. Mulch can prevent the soil from getting too cold or too hot, and it also helps it retain moisture.
- Other mulches you can use include straw and grass clippings.
- Mulch can also prevent weeds from spreading.
- Apply about 5-7.5cm of mulch on top of the plants when the soil has started to warm up.
Step 5. Sow more seeds every two weeks
You can continue sowing green beans every two weeks if you want to get a continuous harvest that lasts all summer and into the fall.
- Skip a planting if you won't be there when the green beans are ripe.
- Note, however, that too hot weather could cause the vegetables to drop off the plant prematurely. If you live in a region known for particularly hot summers, you may need to stop growing during the warmer months.
Step 6. Stop 10-12 weeks before the first autumn frost
For the last fall harvest of green beans, you should sow the seeds about 3 months before the first frost arrives. This period will vary according to the climate of your region.
If the first frost comes before the last harvest, the buds or honeycombs may prematurely detach from the plant. This will happen even if the frost will only happen at night and the daytime temperatures will still be quite high
Method 3 of 4: Part Three: Daily and Long-Term Care
Step 1. Water your plants regularly
Water the plants in the morning and avoid doing it on cloudy or rainy days. Water on sunny days so that moisture doesn't get into the leaves.
- Avoid watering the seeds too much before planting or immediately after planting. When exposed to too much moisture, the seeds of green beans have a tendency to break apart.
- In the later stages of the growth cycle, too much or too little water can lead to premature dropping of buds and honeycombs.
- Water the plant with about 2.5cm of water per week.
Step 2. Apply a balanced fertilizer from time to time
Green beans can grow well with minimal nutrients, and applying too much fertilizer could actually result in an overabundance of foliage and a poor yield.
- As a general rule, you should only apply fertilizer if your soil nutrient levels are particularly low in a given area.
- If your soil is low in nutrients, you can fertilize the plants once a week with a quick-release balanced fertilizer.
- Green beans prefer soil that is pH 6.0 - 6.5. If your soil is very acidic or basic, you may need to apply a fertilizer formulated for pH balancing.
- If your soil is sandy, you may need to apply nitrogen-rich fertilizer after the first seedlings have formed and once again when the plants begin to sprout.
Step 3. Weeds as needed
Weeds can suffocate green beans, preventing them from emerging to the surface and strangling them when they do. Remove weeds as soon as you notice them to ensure a bountiful harvest.
- When weeding, don't dig too deep. Green beans have shallow roots, and if you dig too deeply into the soil you could damage them.
- Do not weed if the leaves are wet, as this will increase the risk of disease.
Step 4. Watch out for pests and diseases
There are some pests and diseases that commonly affect green beans. Treat plants with organic insecticides and fungicides as needed to control these problems.
- Green beans particularly attract aphids, spider mites, nocturnal larvae, Mexican bean beetles and Japanese beetles, and are particularly weak against white mold and mosaic viruses.
- Get rid of the larvae with an insecticide with Bacillus thuringiensis. Get rid of aphids and spider mites by washing the leaves with water.
- Neem oil and sulfur are usually adequate fungicides.
Method 4 of 4: Part Four: Harvest and Storage
Step 1. Harvest the green beans when they are not yet ripe
The pods should be tough, and you should be able to detach them from the plant without tearing the stem.
- Note that the seeds inside should not grow with fertilizer. They will get tough if they do.
- Green beans are usually the size of a small pencil when ready to harvest.
- Harvest usually occurs 50-60 days after sowing and 15-18 days after flowering.
Step 2. Store the green beans in the refrigerator
Keep them in a sealed container and store them for 4-7 days in the refrigerator.
Freeze, can, or pickle green beans for long-term conversation
Advice
- You shouldn't sprout green beans indoors. These plants have weak roots and may not survive transplantation.
- Rotate the seeds every year to get the best yields. It is recommended to cultivate non-leguminous plants for three years before planting green beans again. Grains, such as wheat and corn, are the best choices, but avoid broccoli and cauliflower. This way the quality of your soil will improve and the likelihood of disease will be reduced.
