Batik is a Javanese method of creating decorations on fabric using wax waterproofing. Once the fabric has been painted with wax it is introduced into a dye bath, but the areas under the wax are not dyed. Batik masters are able to create intricate designs by layering different colors and using cracks in the wax to create subtle details. Even if you are not an expert, you can achieve some beautiful effects using only a little fabric and a little creative spirit.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Basic Batik Method
Step 1. The fabric must be washed before starting the process
Use warm water and a detergent (e.g. Synthrapol) to remove any chemicals and impurities from the fabrics that may affect the dye.
Step 2. Dye the fabric with basic colors
These will be the colors that will appear under the wax cover.
Step 3. Melt the batik wax
The wax for batik looks like a brick that is melted in an electric "wax heater" or in a bain-marie.
- Watch out for hot wax. Do not heat it above 240 ° as it may emit gas or even catch fire.
- It is not recommended to heat the wax on an electric stove; either a special wax heater or the bain-marie method allows you to heat the wax slowly and at a lower temperature.
Step 4. Spread the fabric on an embroidery hoop
The hoop will keep the fabric firm and taut, allowing you to apply the wax with greater precision.
If you plan to decorate a large strip of fabric, you can place some newsprint or card stock on your work surface without using the hoop. The wax will pass through the fabric, so a protective surface underneath is highly recommendable
Step 5. Start applying the wax with the appropriate batik tools
Different tools will produce different types of strokes, so experiment a little to familiarize yourself with the technique.
- Use a batik briquette (also called tjanting) with a single spout to draw subtle lines and patterns. This is the standard instrument for this technique: it is very versatile and is available with a spout in different sizes.
- A double spout tjanting creates parallel lines and can also be used to fill larger areas.
- Brushes can be used to cover large areas. Traditionally they are used to create large strokes or a polka dot pattern.
- Use stamps to make uniform figures. Stamps can be made of any material that resists the heat of wax. Try carving a shape in a potato or use the end of a celery stalk to print half circles.
Step 6. Adjust the temperature of the wax
The wax should be hot enough to penetrate the fabric, but not so hot and fluid that it spreads all over the place once poured. The wax will be transparent if it penetrates to the other side of the fabric.
Step 7. Get ready to dye the fabric in a tub
When choosing which color to use, it is advisable to start with the lighter colors first (such as yellow) and then proceed with the darker colors.
- Wash the fabric in the Synthrapol.
- Dissolve the tincture following the instructions on the package. Some tints (such as red) are more difficult than others to dissolve.
- Add the right amount of non-iodized salt. For 200 g of dry fabric, add one and a half cups of salt. For 500 g of fabric, add three cups of salt.
- Add the damp fabric. Turn it gently, but often, for 20 minutes.
- Also pour in the soda ash. Soda powder, or sodium carbonate, is used to bind the dye with the cellulose in the fibers. Dissolve the powder in hot water and add it slowly into the tub (over 15 minutes), being careful not to pour it directly onto the fabric (it could discolor it). For 200 g of fabric, add 1/6 cup of salt. For 500 g of fabric, add 1/3 cup of salt. Stir gently, but often, for another 30 minutes.
- Rinse the fabric and wash off the excess dye. Run cold water over the fabric until it appears transparent again. Then wash the fabric in hot water with Synthrapol. Some dark colors, such as black and brown, require a second wash to remove excess dye. Leave the fabric to dry.
Step 8. Repeat another application of wax to add more layers of color and decorations
For each extra layer you want to add, follow the steps for coloring in the tub. Remember to use the darkest colors last.
Step 9. Remove the wax
When you have finished applying all the colors, you can remove the wax using one of these two methods:
- Bring the wax to a boil. Fill a pot large enough to hold the fabric, water, and a few drops of Syntraphol. Once the water comes to a boil, add the fabric and fix it at the bottom with a stone to prevent the wax (which will float at the top) from binding again to the fabric. After a few minutes the wax will come out of the fabric. When all the wax has come off the fabric, wait for the pot to cool completely, then remove the layer of wax from the surface of the water.
- Remove the wax with an iron. Place the fabric between two sheets of absorbent paper and iron it over it. There may be some wax residue left, so make sure it has all been removed. Changing the paper from time to time can help you get a completely clean fabric.
Step 10. Wash and dry the fabric
Put the fabric in the washing machine with Synthrapol one last time to make sure that all the dyes have been washed off. Dry the fabric on a line or with the dryer.
Method 2 of 3: Wax-Free Batik
Step 1. Spread cling film on your work surface
Spread the pre-washed and pre-colored fabric on overlapping sheets of cling film.
Step 2. Create decorations using a washable waterproofer
As with traditional batik, you can use single or double spout tjanting to create fine line decorations. Use paint brushes to cover large areas. Let it dry for at least 30 minutes, although the drying time depends on the thickness of the waterproofing applied.
Evaluate the use of molds immersed in waterproofing to create repetitions of a pattern. Otherwise, you can use a stencil: place it on the fabric and apply the waterproofing by dabbing with a sponge brush
Step 3. Mix the liquid dye
Follow the instructions on the package to mix the dye. If you are using a liquid dye, balance the ratio of water to dye to get softer (adding more water) or more vivid (adding more color) hues.
Step 4. Apply the tint
The dyes can be dripped, painted, dabbed or sprayed on the fabric. Consider mixing two or more colors to create different shades.
Step 5. Cover the fabric with cling film
Once you are done with applying the color, cover the fabric with cling film and seal the edges.
Step 6. Microwave your fabric
Place some paper towels on the bottom of the microwave to protect it from spills. Place the plastic-coated fabric in the microwave (the fabric may need to be folded) and cook on high for 2 minutes.
Step 7. Remove the fabric from the microwave
Using thick rubber gloves, remove the fabric from the microwave. It will be hot, so be careful! Let the fabric cool for a few minutes before removing the plastic.
Step 8. Wash and dry the fabric
Rinse the fabric under cold water until it stops discharging the color. After you have removed the initial dye, wash the fabric in warm water with a mild detergent and rinse it off. Put the fabric to dry
Method 3 of 3: Batik on Silk (Alternative Method)
Step 1. Pre-wash the silk
Add a drop or two of dish soap to a bucket or tub full of water. Rinse and dry the fabric. When the silk is still slightly damp, iron it with the iron at low temperature (set to the “silk” setting).
If you want to draw a sketch, instead of drawing freehand, it should be done after the fabric has been ironed
Step 2. Spread the silk
Apply safety pins connected to rubber bands around the edges of the silk, every 10-15cm. Lay the silk on a frame and start applying thumbtacks to the frame. The rubber bands will hook around the tacks positioned on the frame to create a taut trampoline.
- The rubber bands should be small enough to hold good tension, but long enough to avoid tearing the silk.
- You can tie two rubber bands together to make a longer one if the frame is much longer than your silk.
- The goal is to create a taut surface on which to paint. The surface should be taut but not so tight that it starts to tear the fabric.
Step 3. Raise the frame
Place 4 cups or other containers under the frame to lift it off the work surface.
Step 4. Apply the waterproofer
The waterproofing can be applied with a paint brush or a bottle with a thin spout. Leave the waterproofer to dry completely before moving on to colors. Depending on your preferences, there are two types of waterproofing that work well for silk painting:
- Rubber-based waterproofers, or gutta-percha, which are similar to mastic. The gutta percha can be diluted to have a less viscous texture and finer details in the lines. After the color has been applied, they can be removed by dry cleaning the fabric. The downside of this waterproofing is the fumes it produces. It is recommended that you wear a respirator and work in a well-ventilated area when using gutta-percha.
- Water-soluble waterproofers are non-toxic, odorless and wash off with hot water. These waterproofers work well in color combinations for silk (rather than dyes), which are applied hot with an iron. The downside to these waterproofers is that the lines aren't as smooth as they do with gutta-percha, so subtle details are difficult to achieve.
Step 5. Apply the color
Carefully apply the color or tint with a brush. Let the color flow to a waterproofed area. Painting directly on the waterproofing can make it dissolve or fill. There are two options when it comes to colors:
- Paints for silk are pigment-based products that color the surface of the fabric without penetrating its fibers. These colors can be used on a wide range of fabrics (even synthetic ones) and are dry fixed with an iron.
- Silk dyes color fabrics by forming a bond with the fibers of the fabric. These are a great choice if you don't want to reduce the natural sheen of silk. The colors are lightfast and washable.
Step 6. Allow your colored silk to settle for 24 hours
If you have opted for silk paints, heat fix the color by ironing the wrong side of the fabric for 2-3 minutes. After ironing it, rinse the fabric in hot water, put it to dry and iron it again when it is still slightly damp.
If you have used silk dyes, after allowing the dye to dry for 24 hours, rinse the fabric until it stops draining. Add a couple of drops of mild detergent or dish soap to a bucket or tub and wash the silk. Rinse again with cold water and leave to dry. When the silk is almost dry, iron it with the iron set to "silk" temperature
Advice
If you put the dyes in bottle applicators (with spouts), you can apply multiple dyes at the same time
Warnings
- Wear gloves to protect yourself from the dye. Some dyes can damage your skin and all dyes will stain you.
- Use a respirator when using dyes that produce fumes. Working in a well-ventilated area is also highly recommended.
- If your batik wax catches fire, DO NOT try to put out the flames with water! The water will increase the flames, use a fire extinguisher or baking soda instead.
