Aquarium water can become cloudy for a variety of reasons, including a malfunctioning filtration system that lets bacteria, fish feces, food scraps, chemical additives, as well as plant by-products and decorations in the tank through. To solve this problem you have to find the original source and then clean the aquarium environment.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Change the Water
Step 1. Disconnect the heater from the power supply
Unplug all other electrical devices in the tank to avoid the risk of electrocution while working on the aquarium. At this stage, however, you don't have to remove the tools yet, just unplug them.
Step 2. Remove all decorations and fake plants
Put on waterproof rubber gloves and take all objects out of the water. For the moment, place them on clean sheets of absorbent paper.
Step 3. Scrub all the walls of the aquarium
To do this, use a sponge to remove the algae. Make long, deep movements, as if you were kneading pizza, to clean each internal surface. Scrub the bottom and sides at least two or three times.
Step 4. Turn off the pump
Remove the filter from its housing and place it next to a tub full of water or a sink on top of clean kitchen paper, along with the decorations you pulled out earlier.
Step 5. Clean the filter, decorations and artificial plants
Rinse each item under warm running water. Do a careful job to get rid of any residual dirt; when finished, put the items back on clean kitchen paper.
Step 6. Attach the siphon to the gravel extractor
It is a tool equipped with a hose and connected to a bucket or sink into which the sucked water is discharged. Push the tube into the gravel layer until it reaches the bottom of the aquarium. The residues will be extracted from the siphon along with the water and gravel. When the water starts to clear, you should close the hose valve or pinch the hose somewhere above the gravel to allow the pebbles to sink to the bottom. Lift the siphon, insert it in an adjacent area and repeat the process.
Keep doing this until you have sucked up a quarter or a third of the water in the tub
Step 7. Adjust the water temperature
Check the value on the aquarium thermometer or use one that can be used in water. If you don't have one, you can buy it at the pet store. Thanks to this tool, you can change the temperature of the tap water to coincide with that of the tub.
This step is important to avoid stressing the fish with sudden jolts. Each species needs a specific temperature, but generally the water should be 23-28 ° C
Step 8. Open the faucet to pour the water into the tub
Alternatively, you can proceed manually, first filling a bucket and then pouring the contents into the tub and thus bring the water level back to normal values. Add any necessary chemicals, such as dechlorinator, as you fill the tub. If you have decided to go with the bucket, dissolve the chemicals in the water before pouring it into the aquarium.
Step 9. Arrange the decorations, artificial plants and the filter inside the aquarium
First, place the decorations and plants trying to respect the original positions. Afterwards, slide the filter into its housing.
Step 10. Plug the heater into the electrical outlet and start the pump
Only restore the electrical connections when you no longer have to put your hands in the water and they are completely dry. When done, turn on the pump.
Part 2 of 3: Taking Care of the Filter and Equipment
Step 1. Clean or replace the mechanical basket filter
Take a screwdriver or similar tool to remove the upper part of the filter and thus have access to the sponge or felt inside. Remove this component and rinse it under running hot water for a few minutes. Alternatively, you can use the water you replaced from the aquarium after purifying it; by doing so, you preserve the beneficial bacteria and avoid ammonia contamination. If the sponge or felt is too dirty, you should purchase a replacement part to put in the basket. Once the filter element is reinserted into the device, you can refit the cover and screw it into its housing.
These filters should be cleaned at least every other week, but the frequency may be higher with more fish
Step 2. Do a chemical filter treatment
This product is generally sold in the form of granules or pellets and must be added after having activated the mechanical filter and poured the water or between the installation of the mechanical filter and the activation of the biological one. Follow the instructions on the packaging of the product you have chosen to know the number of granules to put in the mechanical filter or to know how to insert the pre-dosed bags directly into the water. In this case, it is usually a type of activated carbon that is capable of absorbing organic particles, drugs, odor-causing bacteria and dyes dissolved in water. When the tub water is cloudy or gives off an unpleasant odor, it's time to change the chemical filter.
Normally, this type of filter lasts for one or two months. If you are using a pre-dosed sachet model, apply it in an area of the aquarium where there is a strong current
Step 3. Rinse the biological filter
This model is capable of retaining bacteria that contribute to the decomposition of organic material during the nitrogen cycle. It is the key to keeping the water free of ammonia and nitrates - both of which are toxins that can prove fatal to fish. Biological filters have a large surface and are mounted after the chemical one. In other words, the water is first filtered by the mechanical model, then by the chemical one and finally by the biological one. If the latter becomes clogged, you must take it out and rinse it only with water from the aquarium, so as not to kill the beneficial bacteria and slime that are on its surface.
The biological filter should only be replaced when it is physically damaged
Step 4. Clean the current creating system
When servicing motorized devices, such as a pump or electric filter, you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions. However, you can do some basic cleaning to make sure the water is always clear and moving. Perform them when you change the water in the tub, after having disassembled and disconnected the device from the mains. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual to learn how to remove the propeller from the pump and filter. Use a clean rag to remove any residue from the propeller and inspect it for any damage; if it is damaged, replace it.
Step 5. Clean the filter housing
When you remove it during the water change, take a few minutes to maintain this element. Rinse the main body of the filter, the hoses (inlet and outlet) and use an aquarium-safe lubricant to grease the moving parts. For this purpose, you can use petroleum jelly or liquid silicone. Electric pumps that mount externally may need motor oil, but check this by consulting the operation and maintenance manual. After you have cleaned and lubricated the filter, you should reassemble all the pieces and place it in the tank.
In some cases, you need to reactivate the filter before it works again. Fill it with some aquarium water after putting it back in the tank. In this way, you start the suction function
Part 3 of 3: Deal with the Cause
Step 1. Feed the fish less
These animals only need to eat once a day and in moderation. Also, you should avoid feeding them one or two days a week. Remove all foods that have not been eaten within 10 minutes.
Step 2. Add aquarium salt
This is normal sodium chloride (NaCl) without any preservatives or additives. Add 15 g of aquarium salt per 20 liters of water.
Ask your vet or pet shop owner if the fish in your aquarium can tolerate a slightly saline environment
Step 3. Add a water softener
This chemical removes chlorine, chloramines, ammonia and nitrates from cloudy water more directly. It works with both fresh and salt water; dosages vary according to the specific softener, but it is usually poured directly into the water in a ratio of 50 ml to 190 l of water.
Add softener during water changes
Advice
- Temporarily transfer all fish to a bowl filled with clean tap water while changing the one in the main aquarium.
- Change the water at least once a week.
