Having a freshwater aquarium is the ideal solution if you want to bring some nature indoors. Setting up a new aquarium is easier than it looks. The number of gadgets and accessories on store shelves can be scary, but all you really need are the basics. In a short time you will be able to see fish swimming gracefully inside your new freshwater aquarium.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Arrange the Tub and Stand
Step 1. Choose an aquarium
The tank you choose should be large enough to hold the water you need based on the type and number of fish you plan to put in. Each type of fish needs a certain amount of space, and also produces different amounts of dirt. In general, the bigger the fish, the more dirt they will produce, and consequently the more water they need. Also keep in mind that you will need additional space if you plan to have algae and other decorations as well.
- There are a variety of calculators that can help you decide which fish to keep safe based on tank size, compatibility and needs.
- A 200 liter tank could be considered a standard size that will allow you to keep a certain variety of fish. If you are a beginner, best not to go larger in size at the moment.
- You can also choose an 80 or 100 liter tank to start with, and only put a few hardy fish in it (Molly, Guppy, Platy, Tetra, little Coridoras, but never Cichlids) to see if this hobby is your thing.
- Whatever your decision, don't start with less than 40 liters of water - so desktop aquariums should be avoided. They will not be large enough to accommodate the fish. However, if you are planning to buy a small aquarium, it will be difficult to maintain good water quality.
Step 2. Find a suitable pedestal
Aquariums of 80 l or more need suitable support. Buy one that is designed for the size and shape of the tub. Don't underestimate the weight of a full aquarium! You need to be sure that the base is suitable for the size of the aquarium or that it has been reinforced to withstand the weight of the water. It is also not safe to have one side of the tub protruding beyond the base.
- Furniture such as cabinets, TV stands, tables, or fragile wooden desks may not be strong enough.
- Look for aquarium kits at pet stores. You can also find them on the internet for a good price, but make sure they have no leaks and clean them very well before using them.
- If you don't buy a complete kit, make sure the one you choose is suitable for the size of the tub.
Step 3. Choose the location of the aquarium and pedestal
Choosing the right place is an important factor in fish health. You have to choose a place where the temperature remains constant and the amount of light is not excessive. Leave at least 10 cm between the wall and the aquarium to have enough space for the filter. Here are some things to keep in mind when choosing where to place an aquarium:
- Too much sun promotes algae growth making maintenance a nightmare. The best location for an aquarium is against an interior wall away from direct light.
- Avoid placing it under a fan - the dust could end up in the tub. It would also be more difficult to maintain a constant water temperature, which is very important, if not vital for some fish.
- It is also important to consider the floor's ability to withstand the weight of the aquarium once it is full. Make sure it is supported by a solid structure. If necessary, get your house blueprint to locate the location of the rafters.
- Choose a spot near an outlet, taking into consideration the distance you will need to travel for the weekly water change. It also avoids having wires tangled around the socket. Another good idea is to have a multiple power strip equipped with electrical protection, very useful in cases of drastic power surges, especially after a back-out.
- Place the tub base on a wooden floor, but not on carpet or rugs.
Part 2 of 4: Install the Filter and Add the Gravel
Step 1. Choose the type of filtering you would like to use
The most common and easy to use are undergravels or feeders that hang on the back of the aquarium - the second type is more suitable for beginners. Don't be duped by technology. Filters such as Penguin and Whisper operate both mechanical and biological filtration and are easy to use and clean. Choose the TopFin only if you are already an expert (with the TopFin kit choose the Whisper).
- If you choose an under-sand filter, make sure the pump or power supply is powerful enough for the tank volume. In this case, the bigger it is, the better it will work. Warning: if you do not clean the gravel regularly, the filter will become clogged in the long run, becoming a deadly weapon. Remember that, despite the name, you cannot use an under-sand filter if you intend to use substrates of sand or other fine materials.
- If you decide to opt for a power filter, choose one that circulates enough water. The ideal would be 15 liters per hour for each liter of aquarium capacity. For example, a 30-liter tank needs a filter that makes at least 450 circulate.
Step 2. Install the filter
Installation methods vary depending on the filter. Determine which of these fits your equipment:
- In case of under-sand filters, insert the plate making sure the tubes are in place. If you have a submersible control unit, only one will be enough; with the traditional air pump it is better to get two for aquariums under 120 liters, one for each side. Do not turn on the filter until the aquarium is completely full. Attach the air pump or controller to the appropriate hose. Don't start them for now.
- If you have chosen an externally powered filter, place it on the back of the aquarium in a place where the outlet does not cause problems at the water level. Some aquarium lids have holes for various equipment. Do not turn on the filter until the aquarium is full.
Step 3. Cover the bottom with gravel or sand; about 5-7 cm of sand or gravel is essential to keep the aquarium in good condition and to help orient the fish
Cheap gravel (available in multiple colors) and box sand (white, dark or natural) can be purchased at pet supply stores. The sand is perfect for fish and invertebrates that like to dig, but it needs to be leveled regularly to avoid holes that could ruin the aquarium.
- Rinse the substrate with clean water before adding it to the tub. The less dust there is in the water, the faster it will clean up when the filter is started. This step is essential if you are using sand rather than gravel, but it is still important in any case.
- Clean the gravel thoroughly. Make sure there is no soap - it is lethal to fish.
- Forms a slight upward slope at the back of the tub.
- If you have an under-sand filter, distribute the clean gravel in a thin, even layer around the surface of the filter - pour it a little at a time so that you can fix it better while also avoiding scratching the sides of the tank.
- Place a shelf on top of the substrate so it doesn't disperse when you add water.
Step 4. Add the plants and other decorations
Be sure to fix them before adding water and fish to avoid having to put your hands inside the tank once it is populated.
Part 3 of 4: Adding the Water and Heating System
Step 1. Look for any leaks
Fill the tub with about two inches of water, then wait for half an hour. If there are any leaks, it is best to notice before filling the aquarium completely. If there aren't any, fill it a third.
Do this in a place where you won't have any problems in case of leaks. Have the sealant on hand in case you need it
Step 2. Place the plants and other decorations
Plants are practical decorations. It is difficult for a mechanical filter to control the development of plankton. Live plants, on the other hand, are of great help. For some fish they are necessary. In addition to plants, you can also add pieces of wood or other decorations especially if specifically designed for freshwater aquariums. Do not put random objects in the tub.
- Choose plants that are suitable for the types of fish you want to catch. Dip the roots into the gravel, but not the stem or leaves.
- Some plants need to be attached to something, so get some fishing line (which won't harm fish or plants) and tie it to a clean piece of rock or wood.
Step 3. Finish filling the tub
Once you are sure that all the decorations are arranged as you wish, fill the tub to the edge, leaving a gap of about 2 cm.
Step 4. Start the filter
Fill the filter tank with water, and turn it on! The water should slowly and quietly begin to circulate within a couple of minutes. If you have an under-sand filter, turn on the pump. The water should begin to move vertically in the suction tube.
Wait a couple of hours, then check that the temperature is still in the right range, that there are no leaks and that the water is circulating properly
Step 5. Install the heater (with suction cups) inside the tub
Try to place it near the mouth of the filter that expels the water. This way, the water will be heated evenly. Most thermostats have a temperature range from 21 to 25 ° C. Submerge the radiator and attach the thermometer. Do not turn it on until the aquarium is full.
- Submersible heaters are the easiest to use. Get one with an adjustable thermostat, since each type of fish needs specific temperatures. The ideal is to have 3/5 watts for every 5 liters of water.
- Some lamps (sometimes included in kits) give off so much heat that they alter the temperature of the aquarium drastically. Keep this in mind when setting up.
Step 6. Add the dechlorinator following the instructions on the label (if you have not used drinking water)
It is also a good time to add a dose of SafeStart, a catalytic that speeds up the growth of good bacteria.
Step 7. Cycle the aquarium
For instructions on how to run a fish-free cycle (the best method for good bacteria to thrive) read How to Run a No-Load Cycle. The cycle must be completed first to enter the fish in the aquarium. It could take 2 weeks, up to a month and a half. During this time you will need to monitor the water parameters (pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates). When ammonia, nitrite and nitrate values soar and then drop to 0, you have completed the initial nitrogen cycle and the aquarium is ready to house the fish. To help eliminate ammonia and nitrites, you may need to use a suitable product. The only way to reduce nitrates is to change the water and physically remove the chemicals.
Remember to keep testing the water, especially for new tubs. You will need to change 15% of the water daily to keep the tub clean
Part 4 of 4: Introducing Pisces
Step 1. Choose the fish
Ask the dealer for information to choose the type of fish that suits your needs. Search for information on the internet as well. On the fish lovers forums you should find useful tips. Warning: some salespersons may not have much experience and therefore would give you incorrect information. Look for a specialty store where you will find top quality specimens and up-to-date, as well as accurate information. For example, PlanetPet and UniversoAcquari both have a good choice of fresh and saltwater fish.
- Even if you like two types of fish, they don't necessarily have to be compatible.
- If this is your first aquarium, do not take fish recommended for more experienced aquarists.
- Consider the size of adult fish.
- Guppies are great for beginners, but it really depends on the size of the tank.
Step 2. Don't buy the fish all at once
Learn about the species you plan to host and buy two small ones (not for schooling fish). These should be groups of 4 (ideally more than 6). Every two weeks (or once the aquarium has done a mini cycle, whichever comes first), buy a new group. The last to arrive must be the largest fish.
Step 3. Bring the fish home
The clerk will fill a plastic bag with water, then place the fish in it and finally add oxygen. At this point, it's your turn. On your way home, keep the bag safe to prevent it from rolling or something falling on him. Go straight home. Fish survive in water and oxygen for up to 2.5 hours. If you live further away, make sure the fish are arranged differently.
Step 4. Place the fish in the aquarium
Start with two or three fish for the first 10 days, then add two or three more, wait another 10 days, and so on. If you introduce too many fish all at once into a new tank, the water will fail to recirculate properly, and will quickly become toxic. Patience is the key for the first six or eight weeks. That said, a big mistake many people make is to buy fish that live in schools, but only one or two. It is cruel and causes severe stress to the fish. In these cases the minimum quantity will be five.
Advice
- Always research the needs of any living thing (fish, plant, or invertebrate) you want to include in the aquarium. Make sure it is compatible with the creatures already present. Also, you need to be able to meet their needs. Better to get information from multiple sources, don't automatically believe the first thing you read!
- Over time, good bacteria collect on the surface of the water to eliminate ammonia and nitrites. Adding the fish all together can strain these bacteria by clogging the filter. A sparsely populated aquarium will usually do the recycling in 30-45 days: the bacteria will become stable and will be able to handle the waste produced by the fish. More fish does not make the process quicker.
- Don't leave the light on all night: even the fish sleep! They need a period of darkness as they have no eyelids. And if you don't have any live plants in the aquarium, turn on the light only when you are home and want to watch your fish. They don't need 14 hours of continuous light and too much light promotes algae proliferation.
- If you can choose the type of light, buy neon: they produce less heat and enhance the colors of the fish.
- Do a lot of research. First, read up on the water conditions in your municipality. There are differences between living in "hard" or "soft" water and a fish in the right water will be longer and healthier. Unless you want to treat all the water intended for the aquarium (it can be expensive as well as time-consuming), choose suitable fish for the water you have available.
- If you find it difficult to keep the aquarium clean, consider using real plants. They prevent water from becoming cloudy and are decorative. Just make sure you buy them at a pet store so they don't harm the fish.
- Under-sand filters are going out of style for a variety of reasons: they don't work as well as hanging ones, they're noisy, and require a lot of maintenance.
- Not all air pumps are the same - the box may say "silent". Ask for more information before buying it.
- If you use under-sand filters, the gravel will need to be vacuumed from time to time to remove the organic material. Otherwise, ammonia or nitrite levels will rise and the fish will die.
- 150 liters of water weighs almost 200 kg. This should help you decide if you have a structure that can handle that weight. All aquariums containing more than 400 liters must be placed on special bases.
- Do a blank cycle.
- If you use an under sand filter, buy a single submersible unit instead of an air pump - it's quieter and more efficient. Use the same guidelines for power filters, choosing the right size.
- Buying a cheap check valve for your air piping can save you from having to buy a new pump if the power fails.
- If your filter makes a rattling sound, try shaking the inside - sometimes the air gets trapped, causing noise.
Warnings
- Some radiator models become dangerous when they dry out. Security systems sometimes fail.
- Pay attention to expert advice. Never buy fish that have wounds, blemishes or spots. There are millions of fish and prognoses. And you are not a vet.
- Do not tap on the aquarium glass. The fish would get irritated and frightened.
- The shells you found on the beach could be toxic to your fish, especially if you have a freshwater aquarium.
- Watch the staff turn up in the shop where you serve yourself. If the number of shift workers is low, the quality of the information the staff will give you is likely to be high. Even ponds and lakes practitioners are likely to be aquarium experts.
- If ammonia, nitrates and phosphates accumulate in the aquarium, it means that it is time to change the water and plants. The pH (alkalinity) test is almost a must. When you go to the pet shop, take a water sample with you.
- Do not place the aquarium near a window - this will overheat the water and encourage algae growth. If the aquarium has no fish, however, this is not a problem.
- Do not pour never tap water in the aquarium - the fish would die within a couple of minutes.
- Try to avoid lifting the empty aquarium by the edges - they could break and compromise the integrity of the structure. Larger aquariums require a mat underneath to unload the weight.
- Fight the urge to buy fish as soon as you set up your aquarium! Conditions in a new aquarium are still variable and could be lethal.
- Never clean the windows with a spray cleaner or ammonia.
- Under no circumstances should you choose fish just because they are cute. That sweet little fish could be a real terror of the seas once grown.
- Consider breeding Danes before buying carnivores like cichlids, sharks or oscars.
- Choose fish that are similar to each other, such as cichlids and characins (scalars, emigrammus) highly recommended cleaners are the algae eater Siamensis.
