Rabbits make excellent pets. However, before you take a specimen home, you need to set up a comfortable "house" suited to his particular needs. Learn how to prepare a safe and comfortable cage for your pet, so that he has plenty of space to move, play, stretch out and even a protected corner to crouch at night.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Choosing the Cage and Materials
Step 1. Choose a cage or enclosure
The former is more suitable as a temporary solution because it does not allow the rabbit to hide. An animal that is constantly exposed to sight from all sides gets stressed quickly. It is worth putting a shelter or a box in the cage, so that your new friend can enjoy some privacy.
- On the other hand, although the fences are better, they are heavy and bulky, not very suitable for indoor environments.
- Usually, the fences are made of wood, with wire mesh on the entrance to allow the bunny to look outside. Wood is an excellent solution, because it has excellent thermal properties, it protects from wind, rain and winter cold. At the same time, it provides some shade in the summer.
- A wire mesh cage is a short-term solution, for example when the animal spends time at home and you don't want it to gnaw on the electrical cables. When using a cage, always make sure there is a hiding place or box where the rabbit can shelter to sleep and feel safe.
Step 2. Choose a cage with the right size in relation to that of the animal
The various breeds range from the dwarf ram rabbit, which weighs just 1.3 kg, to the giant Flemish, which can weigh up to 10 kg. The size and weight of the cage depend on the breed you have chosen. When buying it, take into consideration the size and weight your long-eared friend will have in adulthood.
- As a general rule, be aware that the cage must be high enough for the animal to stand upright on its hind legs. Also, it should be well over three adult rabbit leaps and wider than two.
- Bunnies live in burrows and feel very safe and can only rest indoors - preferably in the dark. So it is better that the cage has two areas, in one of which the animal should be able to enjoy absolute privacy.
- For two small bunnies, the cage should be at least 150cm long, 60cm wide and just as high. If the specimens are larger then the dimensions should be 185cm long by 90cm wide and 90cm high. Obviously, do your calculations, always considering the larger specimen of the two.
- If you are about to bring a puppy home, know that it will grow in a few months, so choose a cage that can accommodate it even in adulthood.
- Many "rabbit cages" you can find in pet stores are actually too small. If your hometown store doesn't offer a good assortment, do some research online or get creative and build your own.
Step 3. Remember that the cage must have a solid floor
Many animals suffer from a disease called pododermatitis: pressure sores on the back of the hind legs caused by continual support on hard or wet floors. The cage with the metal mesh bottom is completely unsuitable, as well as very uncomfortable for the animal.
If the model you purchased has a wire mesh bottom, you will need to cover it with another material (such as a plywood plank) and then add some substrate
Step 4. Choose a cage with mesh walls
Those with mesh walls and ceiling are the best, because they guarantee perfect air exchange and are easy to clean. However, make sure the floor is not made of wire mesh, the bunny should not be forced to sit or stand on this type of surface for a long time.
- Consider a cage without a ceiling, such as puppy pens. These give the rabbit more freedom of movement and feel less "caged". Choose a model that is at least 85 cm high, so the animal cannot jump out.
- If you want to make an outdoor enclosure for the bunny, the specifications are different. Read this article for more details.
Step 5. Check that the bottom of the cage has a protection for urine
The bottom of the cage, also called the tray, should have raised, seamless edges. This is because the rabbit tends to spray urine.
- It is also very useful to prevent the animal from throwing straw on the floor.
- If the model you purchased does not provide a protection of this type, you can improvise one yourself using materials - such as cardboard - which cannot harm the animal if it gnaws them. However, you will need to replace them often if you don't want the bunny to get sick.
Step 6. Purchase a litter box
Take one and teach the rabbit to use it; this is a very important element, especially if the animal lives at home. You can buy a triangular one to put in the corner of the cage or enclosure because it is very convenient.
Your furry friend won't use the litter box right away, so be patient. You will have to teach him how to use it; sooner or later he will be perfectly trained and will go there regularly
Step 7. Also buy a bowl for food and water
For food, choose a heavy, flat-bottomed one that won't tip over easily. Also put a container for hay but do not mount it too high above the ground, as rabbits do not like to stretch their heads up too much.
Part 2 of 3: Choosing the Place for the Cage
Step 1. Place the cage in a well-ventilated area where it is neither too cold nor too hot
Do not use dirty and dusty rooms such as the basement or the attic, because the dust harms the animal's delicate lungs.
- The rabbit needs natural light. Make sure it is not affected by direct sunlight but that there is a soft light.
- Know that the rabbit does not like loud noises or sudden movements, so placing the cage near the dryer causes unnecessary stress.
- A guest room is an excellent solution, as long as you make sure you interact regularly with the animal.
Step 2. Make sure it's safe from predators
Also, watch out for other pets in the house, such as cats and dogs, as they may scare them. Rabbits are prey species and being in the presence of carnivores is a terrifying experience for them.
If you have dogs, keep the cage off the ground. Rabbits are afraid of dogs that sniff all around the ground
Step 3. Choose a room where he can move
This rodent does not like to be constantly confined in the cage; you have to allow him to do some exercise. The best thing to do is to put the cage in a room where the rabbit can move and explore the environment without causing damage and without risk to its safety.
Make sure there are no loose cables, edges, small toys or other objects that could hurt him
Part 3 of 3: Setting up the Cage
Step 1. Put some substrate in the cage
Rabbits need a thick, soft substrate to protect their paws from ulcers. The larger the animal, the thicker the layer must be.
- Usually straw, sawdust or hay is used. Among these, the best material is straw because it is elastic, soft and in winter it keeps the heat. In addition, the rabbit can nibble it safely.
- For a medium sized rabbit, make a layer about 12-15cm thick. If the animal is large, increase the thickness.
- Even if he has been trained to stay free in the house, do not line the bottom of the cage with carpet, as it could cause intestinal blockages if he eats it.
- Clean the dirty areas every day, eliminating the substrate wet with urine or with excrements; finally put some clean straw. Ideally, you should do a thorough cleaning once a week.
- Rabbits chew the blankets and the material you put in their kennel, so inside the hiding place you have to create a particularly high and compact thickness of substrate.
Step 2. Fill the litter box with old newspapers, non-toxic sand and a layer of hay
Change the latter every day and do a complete cleaning of the litter box once a week.
Do not use cat litter, especially clumping litter, as it could be deadly for the rabbit
Step 3. Feed your rodent friend
Grass is the best food and hay is a valid substitute. Whenever possible, feed him only hay, so his teeth are always in perfect condition and the rabbit won't get fat.
- Once a day you can give him treats such as fresh fruit and vegetables, but try to vary often to ensure a balanced diet.
- If you have more than one, organize a bowl of food for each pet and keep a spare. Place them in opposite places in the cage so the dominant rabbit won't hog all the food.
Step 4. Provide water
The water containers are continuously overturned or soiled with feces; for this reason, drop-shaped drinking bottles are more suitable. Change the water every day, so it will always be fresh. Also wash the container and never use the drinking bottle if it is dirty with algae.
If you have more than one rabbit, put another drinking bottle on the opposite side of the cage
Step 5. Add some fun toys
These make the environment more fun and interesting for the animal. The rabbit will have something to play with, for example cardboard boxes or tubes with holes are perfect. Some specimens also have fun with balls inside which there is a bell.
- Rabbits love to chew, so provide them with sturdy sprigs of fruit trees (apple, pear, plum, cherry) or buy specific products at a pet store.
- When choosing toys, make sure they are safe for rabbits. A good game consists of a cardboard box filled with torn paper and dry hay. The animal will love to dive inside.
