The stickers found on wooden surfaces are quite easy to remove. You will likely need to use some elbow grease if your child has stuck one of their colorful stickers on a piece of furniture. Don't be disheartened if you don't succeed on the first try. Each type of adhesive requires a different approach, and it's not easy to know in advance which one will work.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Using Heat
Step 1. Heat the adhesive
Use a hair dryer or heat gun, setting it to the lowest temperature. Heat it entirely for a few seconds, then direct the heat source to a corner. Continue like this as you move on to the next step.
The hairdryer should be kept 5 cm away from the wooden surface, while the heat gun at least 7.5 cm. Don't use your heat source for more than 10-15 seconds. If the area overheats, you risk damaging it or creating a stain when you remove the adhesive
Step 2. Lift it up with a smooth, flat object
The safest tools for this are a credit card or plastic scraper. If the wood is not antique or of great value, you can also use a spatula, palette knife, or thin butter knife without serration. Lightly scrape the edge of the sticker to lift it, starting from the corner you heated. If that doesn't work, go to the next step, but keep your tool handy.
- If you are dealing with a precious or antique object, use your fingernails.
- If your tool is too double to fit under the paper, cut out a square from the center of a plastic lid.
Step 3. Peel off the adhesive with a pair of tweezers while heating it
Once the edge is lifted, grasp it with a pair of tweezers or flat-nose pliers. Pull it slowly while keeping the tool perpendicular to the surface. If the wood is delicate, pull along the grain of the wood to avoid damaging the fibers of the furniture. Meanwhile, direct the hair dryer to soften the glue as you go. Do not try to tear the sticker, otherwise you may leave some paper scraps that are more difficult to remove.
Go to the next steps to get rid of any traces of glue
Method 2 of 3: Use a Solvent
Step 1. Peel off the adhesive with white vinegar
Soak a paper towel or cloth with white vinegar. Place it on the adhesive and let it sit for five minutes. Gently peel it off using a fingernail or a pair of tweezers.
Step 2. Use a damp cloth for product labels
You can remove factory labels from furniture and toys by using a damp cloth. However, do not add water if they come in the form of pressure applied adhesive sheets. These are pressure sensitive labels that in contact with water can further adhere to the surface to which they are attached.
Do not immerse the wood, otherwise it may swell and be damaged
Step 3. Use a glue remover
If the wipe method doesn't work, try a product like Avery Surface Cleaner or a cleaner containing citrus oil. Use just enough to wet the adhesive. Wait a couple of minutes for it to penetrate the plastic or paper label, or try to lift one edge and apply a drop underneath. When the adhesive has soaked and softened, peel or scrape it as you did previously.
Read the product instructions first to make sure it is safe in contact with wood
Step 4. Try petroleum jelly or menthol ointment
These products may take up to eight hours to penetrate the adhesive and weaken it, so you should only use them if they save you from going to the store. Once the label has softened, scratch it and remove the glue. Add a few drops of absolute and concentrated dish soap to the residues. Rub until it forms a paste, then pat dry with a paper towel.
Step 5. Moisten the sticker with oil
Alternatively, you can use a seed or vegetable oil (especially eucalyptus oil) or a light mineral oil, such as WD40 or baby oil. Dab a few drops on the label, let it sit for a couple of hours, then try scraping. Since vegetable and mineral oils offer different results, try them separately.
Oil can darken unpainted wood. It does not damage most wood surfaces and can also improve their durability. However, you may want to apply it to the rest of the furniture as well, so that it has a uniform appearance. Use a product intended for this purpose, not the oil used to peel off the adhesive
Step 6. Apply the strongest solvents carefully
Consider these products as a last resort, as they can damage the color or varnish of the wood. Use them only in a well-ventilated area or outdoors, as they produce toxic fumes and are also flammable. First, test a corner of the surface to make sure you are using a product that does not damage the wood.
- Usually, flammable liquids are safe on paint and evaporate quickly once applied to wood. However, they can damage some finishes.
- Paint thinner is probably the second safest choice, but it can ruin many finishes. Try it in the corner first.
- Acetone or acetone-based solvents destroy lacquer and plastic finishes - in other words, most wood treatments.
- Denatured alcohol is absolutely the last resort, because it can corrode almost all lacquered surfaces and damage the underlying wood.
Method 3 of 3: Remove Label Remnants
Step 1. Use an oil-based product, such as lemon oil
It does not scratch the wood, but removes the most stubborn traces of glue. It is preferable to opt for a product that is commonly used on wood so that it does not have to be removed with a detergent.
Step 2. Remove residue with adhesive tape
Clear adhesive tape (also called "scotch") can remove the glue without leaving any further traces. Lay it on the residues and tear them off. If you don't get noticeable results, go to the next step.
You can try other types of duct tape if the wood is of no particular value. However, avoid the insulating one, as it can leave traces of glue on the wood
Step 3. Remove any residue with the solvent previously used
If you used a solvent to dissolve the glue, it should work on the remaining traces as well. Dampen a cloth with a small amount of this product. Rub for about ten to 10 minutes, with gentle circular movements.
Do not use it if the wood takes on a rougher or discolored appearance
Step 4. Rub the surface with soapy water
If the residue is low, you can remove it by mixing water and a mild dish soap. Just pour a drop or two into a small bowl of water. Dip a cloth or sponge and scrub.
Step 5. Sand the wood if none of the methods worked
If the adhesive or residue does not come off, sand the surface. Rub it with a sheet of 80-grit sandpaper until all traces are removed, combing it every time it fills with lumps. Smooth the surface with 120 sandpaper and then switch to 220.
Once sanded, it restores the original finish. If you don't know what kind of treatment was applied, you will probably have to sand the entire surface and repaint
Advice
- If the surface changes color or dries after using a heat source, use a wood oil to restore the cabinet.
- Treatments that leave a glossy, compact patina on wood usually last longer than matte finishes. A matte finish on a valuable piece of furniture is a warning sign: solvents will almost certainly damage it.
- Some types of sticky glue dry out and peel off easily when frozen. You can try this method on a small piece of wood, but be aware that you could ruin it. Wood, especially damp, can crack or weaken in contact with the cold.
