Do you want to save some money and learn something about your beloved medium at the same time? Try changing the oil yourself. It's cheap, it's fun, and you don't need a lot of tools!
Steps
Step 1. Prepare the work station
This is one of the most important steps. It is undesirable to have to run around looking for tools, containers and rags while oil is leaking from your motorcycle and your hands are too greasy to even turn a door handle! Check the "Things You Will Need" section to get everything ready.
Step 2. Place the motorcycle on the side or center stand, or on a rear stand if you have one
Place the oil pan about below the oil drain plug. Try to predict where the oil will flow and watch it as it flows. You will most likely have to move the pan as the old oil jet slows down. Use the correct wrench to unscrew the cap: it does not have to be stripped! If the cork falls into the bowl, pick it up quickly and be careful not to burn yourself if it's hot!
Step 3. Let the old oil finish draining as you remove the oil filter
Carefully unscrew the filter using an oil filter wrench or, in an emergency, wrap a leather (or rubber) strap around it, such as a dog collar, to remove it. Be careful not to dent or damage it, as this could cause some of the contaminants contained in the filter to flow back into the engine. There may be some oil left inside that could come out, so be sure to put something under the filter that can absorb the oil. If the filter is stuck in place you can drive a screwdriver into one side of it using a hammer and use the screwdriver to unscrew the filter.
Step 4. Install a new washer on the oil drain plug
It can cost up to € 1, but it's cheap insurance. Make sure you have removed the used washer. The new washer will help preserve the oil pan thread, as less torque will be needed to secure the drain plug. If the washer is made of copper it will need to be re-cooked to make it soft, heating it until it becomes incandescent and then cooling it in water. All copper washers, including new washers, must be annealed before being reused, otherwise they will not compress as the copper hardens over time.
Step 5. Close the oil drain
Make sure the cap is not dirty with dust or sludge before screwing it back on. Remember that it will usually screw onto aluminum threads, so don't over tighten it! Check the manual or ask a workshop for the tightening torques of your motorcycle. Remember, when using a torque wrench, newtons per meter (Nm) are not equivalent to foot-pounds (ft-lbs). If you can't follow the manufacturer's directions, secure the cap tightly but don't overtighten it!
Step 6. Prepare the filter by filling it one quarter full with new oil
Use a slow circular motion to wet all the filter material with the oil. Then (this is very important), grease the entire rubber gasket with a thin layer of oil, using the tip of a finger. This will ensure optimum contact with the engine and make the filter much easier to unscrew during the next oil change.
Step 7. Remove the sludge from the engine area around the air cleaner and spread a thin layer of oil in the same area to get a good even contact
Carefully screw on the new filter. Don't force it! It should screw on quite easily. When it starts to need some force to screw it in, it will only take another 3/4 of a turn. Never over-tighten an oil filter, and you shouldn't need anything but a clean hand to tighten it. Do not use tools, unless they are connected to a torque wrench and you are tightening using the manufacturer's specifications!
Step 8. If you haven't already, move the used oil away from the work area to avoid spilling it around
Check the oil pan's capacity in the manual and use the funnel to pour about half a liter less than the full capacity of oil into the fill hole. Stop and check the level. Add or remove the oil to bring the level to about one third between the minimum and maximum marks. It is better not to pour too much oil! Doing so increases the pressure on the engine seals and may shorten their life. Remember that if you are working on a motorcycle you have to put it straight, with the wheels on the ground and not on the side stand, to check the oil level.
Step 9. Clean everything, double check that you have closed all caps and bolts and you are ready to go
Most stores that sell motor oil will pick up used oil if you pour it into the original containers. It's a complicated job, but don't waste it in the environment! It does not go away anymore, it is very bad for the environment and, most likely, it is also illegal.
Step 10. Finally, be sure to double check the oil level and also the attachment of the filter, drain plug and filler cap after the first spin
Step 11. Congratulations
Job well done!
Advice
- Remember, hot oil flows much better, so go for a ride for about 10 minutes before you unscrew the drain plug. This will help clean the inside of the engine with oil and get it out right. The oil will come out hot and very quickly, so be careful!
- Thoroughly clean the area around the oil drain and the drain plug itself. This will make it very easy to check for leaks when you have refilled the new oil, and will also prevent dirt from entering the engine from the outside of the oil pan. On top of that, leaving oil in that area would attract a lot of dirt and that area would become very dirty.
- If you see leaks after refilling, you may not have tightened the drain plug tight enough, or you may have closed it too tightly.
- Disposing of used oil can be complicated. Pour it into old (but clean) bottles of bleach or detergent, which are durable and have a reliable cap on the top. Most waste collection centers will accept used oil if you are a resident, sometimes only on certain days of the week. Do not pour it into the environment or drains.
- You don't need to get dirt and grime from your tools or workshop in oil, so clean your tools before (and after) the job and keep your work area clean! Small particles of sand in the oil can destroy the engine!
- Make sure you don't overtighten the drain plug. The oil pan is usually aluminum and there is no competition with the hardness of the steel thread of the drain plug. A stripped oil pan would be a big deal. The cap should be screwed on to the torque indicated in the workshop manual and never harder.
- If you drive a sports bike, the oil filter will likely be surrounded by the exhaust manifolds. Since burnt oil stinks, try to prevent used oil from getting into the drain pipes: take some aluminum foil and use it to wrap the drains around the oil filter attachment!
Warnings
- Filling the engine with too much oil increases the oil pressure, overloading the seals. Think about this: those who compete generally use their car / motorbike with even less oil than the manufacturer's instructions, using only the essential oil, in order to keep the weight down. And think about how heavy they go with their engines! Avoid clogging the engine, fill up to 1/3 above the minimum mark. Just check the level often, as you should always do anyway!
- Hot oil is burning! Be careful not to burn yourself.
- Always avoid smoking or using lighters while changing the oil, the battery or working with any other part of the fuel system (tank, pipes, carburetors, injectors, etc.).
- Oil is not very flammable, but gasoline that may have contaminated your oil IS. Oil can burn, remember, but you need a much more powerful heat source than a cigarette or lighter. However, you may have a blocked carburetor float and not know it, and you may find yourself having a lot of gasoline mixed with oil in the crankcase. If a float becomes blocked, excess gasoline should flow out of the float drain. Sometimes, if the exhaust pipe is pinched, plugged, or blocked, the entire contents of the tank could spill into the air cleaner housing and crankcase overnight. The float may get stuck for only a short time, causing a small gasoline leak, but any amount of fuel in the crankcase is very, very harmful. If this has happened, changing the oil indoors could lead to a risk of fire or explosion. An easy way to know what you will be dealing with is to unscrew the oil fill cap, put your nose close to the fill hole and smell. If you smell gasoline, move everything outside to a ventilated area. Also, you will need to find the cause of stray gasoline as soon as possible. If you have a glued float, it could cause all sorts of problems. Gasoline would also contaminate fresh oil and this could cause permanent damage to your engine. A diluted oil is a bad oil!
