Regular replacement of engine oil and its filter is one of the most important operations to ensure the proper functioning of a vehicle. Over time, the oil degrades and the filter becomes clogged with residual contaminants. Depending on your driving style and the type of car, you will have to change every three months (or 5000 km) or you can wait up to two years (or 30,000 km); in any case, it is better to rely on the instructions in the use and maintenance manual to know the exact frequency of interventions. Thankfully, this is a simple and inexpensive job, so it's always best to change the oil as soon as you realize it's necessary.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Raise the Vehicle
Step 1. Park your car on your driveway or in an area with a flat surface and enough space to work
Let the engine idle for 5-10 minutes to warm the oil. Remember to put all safety measures into practice when draining hot or boiling oil
Step 2. Shift the transmission into first gear or select "parking" (P) mode, remove the keys and apply the parking brake
Get out of the cockpit.
Step 3. Insert blocks or wedges to stop the wheels
These should be placed on the tires that remain flat on the ground.
Step 4. Locate the vehicle jacking points
If you have any doubts, consult the user and maintenance manual for details.
Step 5. Lift the car
You will only need to do this on one side
Step 6. Insert jacks under the lifting points
Step 7. Lock the vehicle
Shake the machine hard to make sure it is stable and safe.
Step 8. Place a container right under the engine to catch the oil
Wait 10 minutes to allow the car to cool down. The engine and exhaust system may be hot, so be very careful
Part 2 of 5: Drain the Oil
Step 1. Gather all the materials you need
You will need to get the correct filter and new oil compatible with the engine.
Step 2. Remove the oil cap
First open the hood and locate this element which is above the engine.
Step 3. Find the oil pan
Look for a flat metal receptacle located on the underside of the car, closer to the engine than the transmission.
- Also locate the drain bolt.
- Make sure it is the engine oil valve and not the transmission valve. If you have trouble recognizing it, look for the exhaust system; this is always connected to the engine, since it is a tube that runs throughout the car from the front to the rear. The oil pan and drain bolt are located under the engine.
Step 4. Remove the oil drain bolt
Loosen it by unscrewing it counterclockwise with the help of the correct socket wrench or with an adjustable wrench if you have room to maneuver. You should also remove and replace the paper or felt gasket under the bolt. The metal washer can be reused instead, if it is in good condition.
Step 5. Wait
It will take several minutes for all the oil to drain out of the engine. When it stops leaking from the crankcase, replace the drain bolt. Install a new gasket to the bolt, check and clean the three elements: the drain, the bolt and the gasket. Put a new gasket on the drain valve.
Part 3 of 5: Replace the Oil Filter
Step 1. Locate the filter housing
This element does not have a standard position on various models, so it could be in front, behind or to the side of the engine, depending on the type of car.
- Look at the spare part you bought to get an idea of what to look for. Typically, oil filters are white, blue or black cylinders, about 10-15cm long and 7-8cm in diameter; they are very similar to a can of canned soup.
- Some models, such as BMW, Mercedes and newer Volvos, are equipped with a filter element or cartridge instead of a simple screw-on filter. In that case, you have to open the cap of the built-in tank and lift the filter.
Step 2. Unscrew the filter
Give it a try with your hands first, making sure you have a good grip and turning the element slowly, but steadily, counterclockwise. If you can't disassemble the filter with your hands, you will need a tool to do this that also allows you to avoid oil splashes.
- To minimize splashes and drops of oil when removing the filter, wrap the filter in a plastic bag. Finally, leave it upside down in the bag for all the fluid to drain as you finish the job.
- Always check that the container is under the vehicle and the drain valve to avoid spills. Typically, there is always a certain amount of oil in the old filter that comes out as soon as you unscrew the element.
Step 3. Prepare the new filter
Dip your fingertip in the new oil and then smear it on the O-ring of the replacement part. This way, you lubricate the gasket, create a good seal for the new filter and be sure you can easily disassemble it next time.
You can also pour some oil on the new filter before installing it. By doing this, you reduce the time it takes for the oil pressure to return to optimal levels. If the filter is to be mounted vertically, you can fill it almost to the top edge with oil. If it has to be inserted diagonally, a small amount of oil will come out before the filter is screwed on completely
Step 4. Screw in the spare part, after lubricating it, taking care not to cross the thread
Typically, tightening instructions are printed on the filter itself; read the instructions written on the package, for more details. Usually, you have to screw in the filter until the gasket touches the edge of the housing and then tighten again a quarter of a turn.
Part 4 of 5: Adding the New Oil
Step 1. Pour the new oil into the engine through the opening provided
The exact amount of lubricant should be indicated in the user and maintenance manual, usually in the "fluids" and "capacities" section.
- If you grab the tank so that the spout is up, the oil will flow steadily and without bubbles.
- Make sure you add the right oil. In general, you can safely use 10W-30 oil in most cars, but it is always best to consult the manual or ask the experienced salesman at the auto parts store for information.
- Don't rely on the stick probe to know the exact oil level. This value could be incorrect, especially if you have started the engine before (in this case the probe detects little oil, since it is still in circulation). If you want to check the level with the probe accurately, you should do it first thing in the morning, cold and with the car parked on a level surface.
Step 2. Replace the oil cap
Check the engine compartment to make sure you don't forget any tools inside and close the hood.
Look under the vehicle to make sure there are no leaks. It is always a good idea to immediately clean any oil splashes to their best. While a few drops of fluid on the crankcase are not dangerous when pouring it, they may still emit smoke when the engine warms up. As a result, you would perceive a bad burning smell that could alarm you; moreover, the passenger compartment could also fill up with this unpleasant smell
Step 3. Start the engine
Check that the oil pressure light goes out after a few seconds. Put the gearbox in neutral or park position and apply the parking brake; this way, you can check for any leaks under the car. If the filter or drain bolt is not tightened properly, they may slowly leak oil drops. Leave the engine running for about a minute to allow the fluid pressure to reach optimum levels and to make sure you have each item fitted correctly.
Optional detail: reset the oil change light. This operation varies by car model, so you should consult the owner's manual for specific settings and procedures. In most General Motors cars, for example, you have to turn off the engine and then turn the key without restarting the car. Afterwards, you have to press the accelerator pedal three times in ten seconds. After this procedure, the next time the vehicle is restarted, the oil change light should be off
Step 4. Check the oil level by pulling out the rod probe
When you have stopped the engine again and waited 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle, check the level to make sure it is correct.
Part 5 of 5: Dispose of the Oil
Step 1. Transfer to a sealable container
Once the oil is changed on the vehicle, transfer the old, dirty one to a closed and safe container. The best thing to do is to reuse the tank in which the new fluid was contained. Use a plastic funnel and pour the oil slowly to avoid splashing. Label the container with "used engine oil" so you won't be able to confuse it.
- Alternatively, you can use old milk containers, ones that contained windshield wiper fluid or other plastic bottles. When you decide to use old food containers, be very careful and always clearly label them with the new content.
- Do not pour the oil into jerry cans that contained chemicals, such as bleach, pesticides, paint or antifreeze, as they could contaminate the recycling process.
Step 2. Make sure any oil trapped in the filter has come out
Later, you can add it to the old oil tank (typically around 250ml of fluid). Filters are recyclable items, so keep them.
Step 3. Locate an oil disposal facility near your home
Usually, auto parts stores that sell motor oil can provide you with this information and are often allowed to take back the used oil along with the filters. Petrol stations that do oil changes should also accept the old one, although they may charge some compensation.
Step 4. At the next oil change try the recycled one
Used engine oil is refined several times until it no longer meets the same specifications and certifications as the "virgin" one. Among other things, this process requires less energy than that necessary to extract and refine it from scratch; furthermore, recycling reduces the need to import oil from abroad. Finally, in some cases, recycled oil costs less than "new" oil.
Advice
- Get an absorbent, eco-friendly product in case you spill a little oil. This type of product is able to absorb oil and keep both the garage and the driveway clean. Cat litter or other similar clay-based materials are not as effective as the specific product which is available in many variations and which you can buy online. These are various materials that are extremely absorbent, easy to use and renewable.
- You can purchase oil drain valves to replace the classic original bolt. In this way, oil change operations will be simpler and there will be less chance of dirtying the work environment.
- If you have a lot of difficulty getting the oil filter out, you can use the hammer and a large screwdriver as if it were a "chisel" to turn it counterclockwise. Be aware, however, that once you have made even the smallest hole in the filter wall you will not be able to start the engine until you replace the part.
- To avoid getting oil on your arms when you unscrew the drain bolt, apply some force inward (as if you want to push the bolt into its housing) as you remove it. When it is completely unscrewed, quickly remove it from the opening; if you are lucky, only a few drops of oil will fall on your hand. Tie a rag around your wrist when you do this.
- Put on disposable nitrile gloves. Used engine oil contains toxic substances that are easily absorbed by the skin.
Warnings
- Do not confuse the engine oil opening with the transmission fluid opening. If you pour the oil into the latter you will ruin the system.
- Be careful not to burn yourself. The engine, the used oil it contains and other elements of the vehicle maintain very high temperatures (enough to burn you) for a long time even after they have been turned off.
