Emeralds are precious stones known for their intense green color. Mankind has been looking for this stone since ancient times, and many people continue to be interested in it even today. When buying emeralds, the main element to look out for is quality. Color, cut and transparency are the properties that can affect its value. You should also buy these stones from reputable jewelers and retailers to avoid being scammed.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Checking the Quality of the Emerald
Step 1. Begin by considering the shade of the emerald
Hue relates to the purity of its color and is one of the three elements to be evaluated with regards to color quality. Most emeralds have a blue-green hue, while others have yellow-green hues. Those of greater value have no shade, but are of a very pure green.
Step 2. Look for an intense tonal color
Tonal color refers to the brightness of the emerald. Natural ones range from very light to very dark and the most valuable emeralds usually orient themselves on the darkest part of the shade scale. High quality emeralds usually have a medium to very dark tonal color.
Step 3. Choose an emerald with strong saturation
Saturation represents the intensity of the color and is perhaps the most important aspect regarding the quality of the color. An intense saturation corresponds to a greater brilliance, which means that the emerald reflects light better. A weak saturation, on the other hand, will make the emerald look dull and flat.
Step 4. Consider the cut
No shape in itself has a greater value than another, but some cuts can reflect light more easily. The rectangular cut is, predictably, the most common. Round, oval, pear-shaped, teardrop and cabochon cuts are also quite popular.
In addition to giving a high degree of brilliance, the emerald cuts allow gem cutters to obtain marketable products from the raw crystal
Step 5. Expect to find some inclusions
Emeralds are Type III gems, according to the classification carried out by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA - American Gemological Institute). This means that almost all emeralds will have some inclusions, due to the hardness of the stone. It is good to choose emeralds with internal rather than superficial or semi-superficial inclusions, since the internal ones are less likely to cause a subsequent fracture of the gem.
Step 6. Consult the GIA classification for inclusions
The GIA rates emeralds from VVS (very very slightly included - with just hinted inclusions) to I3 (included - with inclusions).
- VVS emeralds (with inclusions just mentioned) have inclusions that can be identified with the aid of magnification, but not with the naked eye.
- VS emeralds (with mentioned inclusions) have evident inclusions with magnification and detectable with the naked eye.
- Sl1 and Sl2 emeralds (with slight inclusions) have important inclusions evident to the naked eye.
- The emeralds I1, I2 and I3 (with inclusions) have enough extensive inclusions to potentially negatively affect both the appearance and the robustness of the gem.
- It is important to consider that the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) and the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) have different but recognized classification systems. Familiarize yourself with these systems if the jeweler you visit adopts them.
Step 7. Learn about the polishing process and other transparency enhancement treatments
The improvements in transparency help seal some cracks and inclusions of the emerald, but are considered completely acceptable.
- Make sure a transparency treatment was used, as green color treatments may have been used to cover or mask an emerald color quality problem.
- Traditional enhancement treatments use cedar oil and other similar clear oils. Emeralds processed with oil may need further treatment once the oil has dried.
- Artificial epoxy treatment and resins are other recognized treatments for emeralds. These treatments deteriorate less easily, but can become imperceptible with exposure to high temperatures.
Step 8. Choose the appropriate carat
Larger emeralds have a higher carat but also cost a lot more, because a large emerald is considerably more difficult to mine. Many believe that it is easier to recognize the quality of a larger emerald. As a result, a large, high-quality stone will look even more beautiful than one of the same quality but smaller in size, while the flaws of a large, low-quality emerald will be more noticeable.
Step 9. Before buying it, find out where the emerald comes from
The finest quality ones usually come from three Colombian mines: Muzo, Chivor and Coscuez. Other high quality emeralds are mined in Brazil, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Madagascar, Nigeria, Russia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Ask your jeweler where he gets his supplies.
Step 10. Learn about the characteristics of emeralds from the most famous mines
In many cases, emeralds from a particular mine share the same qualities.
- The emeralds from the Muzo mine are characterized by a deep green color with a slight trace of yellow or blue. These stones often contain mineral parasites that appear in flecks of yellow-brown or red-brown color.
- The emeralds from the Coscuez mine are often characterized by a faint hint of blue and an intense saturation.
- Emeralds from the Chivor mine are characterized by shades of blue and often have two-phase tubular inclusions.
- Spiral inclusions are also common to all Colombian emeralds.
Part 2 of 2: Buying Smart
Step 1. Choose a sturdy frame
Emeralds have a hardness ranging from 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, so they are relatively hard stones but can still fracture if treated with little care. In order for an emerald to be durable, it is necessary to choose frames that surround the stone with metal and that provide a high level of protection. The bezel and “V” frames are particularly robust.
Step 2. Consider purchasing an artificial emerald
Lab-created emeralds possess all the physical and chemical properties of natural ones. Many consider these emeralds to be less valuable, but in some cases it is possible to find lab-created emeralds of high caliber, with high quality coloration and clarity at an affordable price.
Step 3. Try to buy loose gems in bulk
Some companies purchase large quantities of stones at affordable wholesale prices to resell them individually for a small surcharge. Instead of buying finished pieces, buy loose stones online from reliable wholesalers and give yourself your personalized piece. This option is often more convenient and allows greater customization possibilities.
Step 4. Buy only from reputable jewelers
Go in search of large chains or individual retailers who offer certifications issued by GIA, AGTA, AGL or other recognized and trusted gemological companies.
Step 5. Be wary of discounts when buying natural emeralds
Natural emeralds are quite rare, which is why it is difficult for their price to be subject to large discounts. If you come across a retailer offering high discounts on natural emeralds, you may need to reevaluate their credibility.
