The ceiling cornice is a small detail that adds a touch of elegance to a room. Installing a ceiling cornice is a project that may be intimidating to many amateur handymen, but it's actually not as difficult as it sounds. You can learn how to install the ceiling frame yourself with a little patience and following the steps described below.
Steps
Method 1 of 2: Preparation
Step 1. Buy the frame
Ceiling cornices are sold in different sizes and heights, so shop around the shops to find the one you like. The angle at which it will be attached to the wall varies, generally, between 38º and 52º, so be sure to measure carefully before proceeding with the cut.
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This guide uses a 45º angle as an example; although this angle is always the best choice for clamping, it may be necessary to modify it for other cuts.
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Since the frame is usually made of wood, it will be good to let it get used to the climate of the house for a few days before installing it. The wood expands and contracts according to the temperature and humidity of the house, better to wait for it to settle before nailing it so that it does not crack or bend later.
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Step 2. Create a guide barrier for the bandsaw
Since the frame will be attached to the wall at a certain angle, each joint (i.e. where two pieces of the frame come together) will be a compound corner. The frame will have to be cut to obtain the angle and beveled to perfectly join the adjacent piece. Doing this with two simple cuts is very difficult, but this guide will teach you how to make both corners using just one cut. For this you will need a guide barrier, a piece of plywood to put on the table where you have the saw that can help you place the frame in the same place for each piece.
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Place a piece of frame inside out on the table of the circular saw. The side of the frame that will be in contact with the ceiling must be against the saw table, while the side that will be in contact with the wall will face the vertical barrier of the saw. Make sure the decorative side is facing you and hold the frame at the same angle you will mount it. Secure the frame to the vertical barrier with clamps.
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Get a piece of plywood or wood that is the same length as the table. Apply hot glue to the table, on both sides, and place the plywood on the glue by pressing firmly against the frame. Once the glue has dried, remove the frame and use the circular saw to cut the center portion of the plywood at a 45º angle.
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Step 3. Make the necessary crimp cuts
If a room wall is longer than the piece of frame you have, then you will need to join 2 pieces together with a wedge joint. Measure the point where the 2 pieces will join and put the first piece into the circular saw, upside down and at the same angle as before. Adjust the blade to a 45º angle and cut. Put the second piece in the saw and cut with the blade in the same position, but make sure that the piece you need to hold is on the other side of the blade.
Step 4. Cut the outer corner seams
When two walls meet to form an external angle of 270º, the joinery work is simple. Put the first piece of frame in the circular saw, against the guide you made, and cut it at 45º. Cut the adjacent piece in the same position, this time holding the piece of frame you intend to use on the other side of the blade.
Step 5. Cut the inside corner seams
Internal corners are more complicated to do. The first piece of frame should be cut square, that is, it should be adjacent to the wall. The second piece, on the other hand, should be cut at 45º as before, but then beveled to rest perfectly on the other piece.
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Cut the first piece of the frame. Put it in the bandsaw with the blade set to 0 degrees.
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Cut the second piece at a 45º angle as if you were cutting an outside corner.
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Use a dark pencil to mark the edge of the cut (of the second piece) along the front of the piece.
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Use an openwork bow to trim away the bevel of the cut edge. Follow the line you made earlier by removing as much wood as you want. Only the front of the frame will be visible once mounted, so the cut can be done rough as long as you follow the profile.
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Method 2 of 2: Installation
Step 1. Nail the first piece of the frame
Use finishing nails to install the first piece of the frame. It's a good idea to have someone hold the frame in place while you stare at it. If you were to make a cut to cover the first side of the wall, apply a little glue to the joint on the first piece of frame. Insert the seam and secure the second piece with the finishing nails. Remove the excess glue.
Step 2. Secure the rest of the frame with nails
Going in one direction or the other, fix the rest of the pieces with the procedure described above. It will be easier if done by two people: one will hold the piece in place and the other will fix it, but if necessary you can do it yourself. Apply only a little glue to each joint when attaching another piece and wipe off excess glue with a cloth. Continue until you have installed all the frame.
- If a corner doesn't fit, use a rasp to remove excess wood by continually testing until it's perfect.
- Making small holes in the seams of each outer corner allows you to securely attach the corners to the wall with an additional finishing nail for each hole.
Step 3. Sand the frame
100 sandpaper is ideal for finishing seams on wood. For pre-finished white frames use white paint sealant. This is also good for smoothing the spots above the nails and any other marks. If there is a distance between the frame and the ceiling, consider putting some sealant here too to close and smooth everything.
Step 4. Paint the frame
This step requires paint and a brush. Enamel paints are typically best for this job; you can choose acrylics, which dry quickly and are less odorous than alkyds, which have a flatter finish, take longer to dry and have a stronger odor, but give a deeper, shinier finish that cannot be achieved with acrylics. Whatever paint you choose, use a straight brush and pass it evenly.
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The standard color of the ceiling frames is white, but other colors are also fine depending on the effect you want to create
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You can also paint the frame before mounting it, but remember that you will need to repaint some of the machined parts afterwards.
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Advice
- You can also buy double-sided frames, that is, decorated on both sides. This will lessen the confusion about spaces and orientation when cutting.
- When measuring the corners to cut the frame, don't forget to double check the corners of the room you work in. Sometimes they are not perfectly 90º, and adjustments are needed. Running them before starting work will save you time later.
- Buy more frame than you intend to use. Most stores will have the unused part returned to you, and having plenty of material for the project will save you hassle if you eventually need extra material.
Warnings
- Always wear safety gear when working with cutting tools.
- When working with paints, thinners or other chemicals, the room should always be well ventilated.
