As is well known, a sharp blade is safer than a cordless one. This applies to both chisels and any other tool, so it is important to sharpen your chisels, to have a clean and well-sharpened blade, once or twice a year, depending on how much you use them. Move on to the first part to get started.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Prepare Your Tools
Step 1. Plan to sharpen your chisels before using them
New chisels won't be sharp enough for a wood carving job, so you'll need to sharpen them before starting a new project. Sharpening takes a very long time, so plan to sharpen them once or twice a year, unless you use them heavily.
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If the chisels are old or have a damaged bevel, it may be necessary, before sharpening them, to restore them to a correct shape using a grinding wheel. Place the damaged bevel on the wheel and hold it well parallel to it to remove large grooves, dirt or rust.
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Step 2. Get a sharpening stone
You will need a stone with 3 different grits - coarse, medium and fine - to get a very sharp edge. You can find sharpening stones at home and garden stores, as well as hardware stores. The stone you purchase will be supplied with lubricant (or there will be a recommended one, to be purchased separately). There are two types of stone, both effective:
- Water stones use the latter as a lubricant. They should be soaked in water for a few minutes before use. Stones of this type are the most used in Japan.
- Oil stones should be lubricated with petroleum-based lubricant prior to use.
Step 3. Prepare the stone
Follow the instructions attached to it to prepare it for sharpening. In the case of a water stone, you will need to soak it in a basin. An oil stone will need to be lubricated with the right type of mineral oil.
Part 2 of 3: Sharpen a Chisel
Step 1. Start with the flat side
The flat side of a chisel should become mirror-like after proper sharpening. Start by sliding it back and forth the full length over the coarse-grained side of your stone. Use both hands to hold it steady as you move the chisel back and forth. You should be moving smoothly and steadily, rather than jerky. When the whole flat face shows the signs due to the action of the stone grain, repeat the process with the medium grain, and then again with the fine one. The maintenance on the flat side will be finished when it is as shiny as a mirror.
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Do not move the chisel to the side, and do not swing it.
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Use the entire surface of the stone for a smoother finish.
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Clean the blade and your hands when switching from one grain to another, to prevent dust from preventing you from seeing the surface of the blade clearly.
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Step 2. Use a sharpening guide to set the angle of the bevel
You can also sharpen the bevel freehand on the stone, but it is very difficult to make sure you get the desired angle without a special guide. Insert the chisel into the guide and tighten the screws on both sides to hold it in place. Depending on what type of chisel you have and how you use it, you will need to set the guide to create an angle of between 20 and 35 degrees.
- For a finishing chisel, set it to 20 degrees.
- For normal chisels a good slope is 25 degrees.
- If you don't want to buy a guide, you can build your own, as many do. You will have to cut a wooden wedge at the desired angle, glue two strips to the sides to act as "rails" (the chisel will be placed between these), then screw a third strip to the rails to be able to fix the chisel in its place.
Step 3. Sharpen the bevel
Place the bevel parallel to the coarse-grained surface of the stone. Grasping the guide with both hands, move the chisel back and forth over the stone, following an elongated and flattened "8" path. When you begin to see grain marks on the surface of the bevel, switch to medium, and then fine, cleaning the surface between passes.
- Use the entire surface of the stone as you sharpen the chisel. If you focus too much on the same area of the stone, a depression will form in it, and the stone will lose its ability to sharpen well.
- After sharpening the bevel, you may notice a slight indentation on the flat side. This result is sought after in Japan, where the chisels are specially sharpened in this way, because they are easier to sharpen the next time.
Part 3 of 3: Optional Finishes
Step 1. Add a micro-bevel
In most cases you will be able to stop at this point, but if you want to get an even better sharpness, you could add a micro-bevel. Basically you will need to create a second tiny bevel at the tip of the main one. This step is not necessary, unless you have to engage in jobs that require a high degree of accuracy. To create a secondary bevel, set the guide at an angle 5 degrees narrower than the one you used previously, and repeat the sharpening using only the finest grain.
You will have to do little work on the stone this time, as you will have to remove a very small amount of metal
Step 2. Pass the chisel over the strop
Some people prefer to finish with strokes on the strop, in order to polish the chisel well. Attach a piece of leather to a flat surface and cover it with an even layer of sharpening paste. Rub the flat side of the chisel into the sharpening paste a few times, then switch to bevel (or micro-bevel) a few more times. Clean the blade when done.
