4 Ways to Take Care of a Baby Turtle

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

Aquatic turtles spend their time swimming and eating in water or basking on land. They are beautiful and fun pets, but they need proper care to survive and thrive, especially when they are just born. If you want to make sure your baby turtle is healthy and happy, you need to provide him with adequate habitat, feed him the right foods and keep the aquarium clean to prevent possible diseases.

Steps

Method 1 of 4: Set up the Habitat

Step 1. Get a large aquarium

You need to find a rectangular or square glass container that is the right size for the turtle when it is fully grown, so it needs to be spacious enough to allow it to swim; it must also contain a stone or a platform on which the animal can lie down and remain completely out of the water. The bigger the aquarium, the better, but make sure it has the minimum required capacity and measurements:

• At least 120 liters for turtles from 10 to 15 cm long;
• 200 liters for those from 15 to 20 cm;
• 280-480 liters for adult specimens exceeding 20 cm in length;
• The minimum length must be 3-4 times that of the turtle;
• The minimum width must be 2 times the length of the animal;
• The minimum height must be 1.5-2 times the length of the turtle; it should be 20-30 cm higher than the maximum point that the animal can reach.

Step 2. Install a heater

Turtles are unable to regulate their body temperature, so you need to make sure the water is hot at the right point by putting this device in the aquarium. Most still young creatures need temperatures between 25 and 28 ° C, but you can do some research online if you want more detailed information about the specific type of turtle you have.

• Make sure the material covering the heater is plastic or metal and not glass, as the animal could break it.
• Consider using two heaters to maintain an even water temperature, which will also prove useful in case one malfunctions.
• Check the temperature regularly with a thermometer.

• Check that the heater is powerful enough:

  • 75 watts for an 80 liter aquarium;
  • 150 watts for a 160 liter container;
  • 250 watts if the capacity is 250 liters;
  • 300 watts for a volume of 280 liters.

  

  Step 3. Install a UVB lamp and a basking lamp

  This reptile needs UVB rays to synthesize vitamin D; You also need to provide him with a light that he can bask under to warm himself, as he is a cold-blooded animal and cannot regulate his own body temperature on his own. Then install artificial lights that provide UVB rays and heat.

  • UVB lamp: available in compact or tubular format; use a model with 2, 5 or 5% UVB rays, such as those for tropical or swampy terrariums, as those for desert environments are too powerful. Install the lamp 30 cm from the water if it has a power of 2.5% or 50 cm if it is 5%.
  • Basking Lamp: This is a normal incandescent or halogen light bulb. The type is not as important as the right distance to properly heat the area in which the turtle basks. For puppies, the central area in which to warm up should reach 35 ° C, while the outermost sides should be cooler; use a thermometer to make sure the temperature is correct.
  • Timer: the lamps must remain off 12 hours a day to imitate the natural cycle of the sun; to do this, consider setting a timer.
  • Attention: never look directly at the lights you install, as they could cause damage to the eyes; place them in such a way that they are not visible to people sitting in the room.

  

  Step 4. Put a metal net over the aquarium

  It aims to protect the animal from any objects that may fall inside; this is important as UVB bulbs can sometimes explode, especially if splashed with water, and the glass splinters could injure the little reptile. Make sure the shroud is metallic, as UVB lights cannot penetrate a solid glass or plastic lid.

  

  Step 5. Provide her with a completely dry space

  This can be a stone, a piece of wood or a floating element; make sure it is on a slope, so that the turtle can easily climb it when it comes out of the water; also check that it is big enough:

  • It should cover about 25% of the entire surface of the aquarium;
  • Check that it is at least one and a half times the length of the reptile and that it is solid enough not to break;
  • The lid of the container must be 25-30 cm above the land area to prevent the baby turtle from escaping.

  

  Step 6. Make sure the water is deep enough

  For a baby turtle, it should be at least 2.5 cm deeper than the width of the animal's shell, so that it can swim freely; as the reptile grows, add more water.

  

  Step 7. Install a filter to reduce the frequency of water changes

  Turtles get dirty more than fish, as they urinate and defecate a lot. Without an adequate filter, it would be necessary to change the water every day to prevent the animal from getting sick; with the filter, you can instead perform partial changes every 2-5 days and a complete one every 10-14 days. There are specific filters for turtle aquariums, but you can also use a normal fish filter, as long as it is suitable for aquariums with a volume 3-4 times greater than yours; otherwise, it would not be able to clean up the dirt produced by the reptile. On the market you can find different types of filters.

  • Internal filter for aquariums: it is usually attached to the edge of the tank with suction cups, but it is too small to be considered the main one of an aquarium that contains more than 80 liters; however, you can also use it in larger containers to encourage water circulation.
  • Basket filter: it is the best for turtle aquariums, it is usually installed under the tank and guarantees excellent filtering; often uses ultraviolet light to kill algae and bacteria. Again, get one that fits a container 3-4 times larger than the tub you have. You can do some research online to get more details on the most common filters.
  • External filter: this is a filter designed to be installed near the water in fish aquariums; Since a turtle tank contains less water than a fish tank, it is necessary to adapt the filter - for example by installing it where the glass has a lower edge than the rest of the tank - so that it can work properly for your little reptile. Remember to always get a filter system suitable for an aquarium that is 3-4 times larger than the one you own.
  • Sand filter: The reverse flow pumps the water up through the sand at the bottom of the aquarium, so that the bacteria in the sand filter it. For maximum yield, it should be used with a substrate of at least 5cm of pea-sized round gravel. Unfortunately, this model does not filter out large food residues, which have to be constantly removed in other ways, however, making cleaning more difficult as they remain under the gravel.

  

  Step 8. Insert an air pump or air stone to aerate the water

  Keeping the water well oxygenated discourages the growth of anaerobic bacteria, which dirty the aquarium and compromise the turtle's health.

  Method 2 of 4: Add Plants

  

  Step 1. Consider adding artificial plants

  Although the real ones offer some benefits, such as the elimination of nitrates from the water, they mainly perform a decorative function. Artificial specimens free you from the worry that the turtle may eat them or that the plants may die.

  

  Step 2. Add substrate if you have decided to plant real plants

  It can be sand, gravel or soil that covers the bottom of the aquarium; in itself it is not necessary for the little creature - indeed it makes the cleaning process of the container much more difficult - and a painted backdrop would suffice. However, if you have decided to install rooted plants or want to give a more natural look to the tank, consider adding one of the following substrates.

  • Fine sand: use the fine-grained sand, such as that of sandboxes for children; it is great for soft-shelled turtles who like to burrow; however, many owners find it challenging to clean.
  • Aquarium gravel: it is a nutrient-poor substrate for plants, which has a mainly ornamental purpose; make sure the granules are large enough to prevent the reptile from eating them.
  • Fluorite: it is a type of porous clay gravel and is the best choice if you have also planted some plants with roots; as soon as you add it, the water gets a bit muddy, but after a few days of proper filtration it should be clear again.

  

  Step 3. Insert the plants

  These are not necessary, but they make the environment more natural and the little turtle is less likely to get stressed. In addition, aquatic plants can keep the environment clean by "absorbing" pollutants and grabbing the carbon dioxide needed by algae to grow. Make sure you choose plants that are well suited to the species of turtle you have.

  • Elodea: grows well in low light and inhibits the growth of algae; it is perfect for mud and moss turtles; however, plant-eating specimens, such as Trachemys Agassiz, Pseudemys concinna, and the painted pond turtle, can destroy it.
  • Java fern: it is a sturdy plant, which requires little light, has hard leaves that turtles are unable to eat.
  • Singapore moss: it is a resistant moss that grows in poorly lit environments and is not a food for these reptiles.
  • Antocerota: plant with branched fine leaves that develops like a floating platform; it tolerates poor lighting and grows fast enough to resist Trachemys Agassiz, Pseudemys concinna, and Painted Marsh turtles, although it is sometimes eaten.
  • Ludwigia glandulosa: although it is not edible for turtles, it can however be uprooted from the substratum in which it is planted; it needs more light (2 watts per 4 liters) and is great for small turtles, such as mud, moss and painted pond turtles.
  • Varieties of Anubias: they are hardy, tolerate low light and are not edible for turtles.
  • Cryptocoryne varieties: they adapt to low light environments and are robust, but they must be planted in a substrate and do not respond well to uprooting; they are more suitable for smaller turtles in spacious environments.
  • Aponogeton ulvaceus: tolerates poorly lit environments, is resistant and is not eaten by turtles; grows in a simple gravel substrate.

  

  Step 4. Create a good environment for the plants

  They need nutrients, light, and usually a place to take root. Here's how to offer them the best conditions to thrive:

  • If you have chosen plants that require a substrate, get one of clayey gravel, such as laterite or fluorite, which provides nutrients to the vegetation and makes the aquarium less dirty.
  • Increase the lighting or choose plants that tolerate a reduced one. Most plants need 2-3 watts for every 4 liters of water in the tank, while aquarium lighting is typically 1 watt for the same volume. You can add other artificial lights, but do not place the aquarium near a window, otherwise the environment will overheat and stimulate the formation of algae.
  • If the plants look sickly, you should add some specific fertilizer that you can buy at pet stores.

  Method 3 of 4: Feeding the Baby Turtle

  

  Step 1. Feed her every day

  As soon as it is born, the turtle needs a lot of food to grow; give her everything she wants and throw away the leftovers. Keep in mind that each meal can be very long, from half an hour up to several hours.

  

  Step 2. Make sure you put the food in the water

  Aquatic turtles must be in the water to be able to swallow.

  

  Step 3. Consider feeding the baby turtle in a separate container

  This way, you keep the main aquarium clean and free of food residues; if instead you decide to keep it in the same tank for eating, do your best to collect the leftovers.

  • Add only the amount of water needed to cover the reptile.
  • Use the same water as the aquarium, so as to offer the same temperature and not cause a shock to the animal.
  • Give him half an hour or even several hours for each meal.
  • Pat it dry when you put it back in the aquarium to get rid of any possible food residue.

  

  Step 4. Offer a wide variety of foods to the young turtle

  Although the specific food for these animals contains all the necessary nutrients, a varied and well-balanced diet is the best way to keep them healthy. Also, in some cases it is even difficult to get her to eat, so it is important to offer her a wide range of foods until she finds what she likes. Among the most suitable products consider:

  • Feed in flakes and pellets. You can find several specific types for baby turtles at pet stores, which offer all the vitamins and nutrients the little creature needs.
  • Stick feed that is great for newborn and adult specimens;
  • Live earthworms, crickets and mealworms (particularly suitable as baby turtles are attracted to movement).

  

  Step 5. Expand the variety as the turtle grows

  When she reaches a few months of life, you can start giving her various different types of food. You can do an online search to find the one that best suits your reptile species. However, in addition to the specific food for turtles and live insects, as described above, other typical foods are:

  • Lesser wax moth and small beetles;
  • Small fish or shrimp
  • Eggs cooked in shell;
  • Fruit (pieces of grapes, apples, melons, strawberries);
  • Vegetables (kale, spinach, romaine lettuce but not iceberg or cabbage).

  

  Step 6. Be aware that a newborn turtle may not eat for a week or more

  It can survive thanks to the yolk residue of its egg; you can offer her food, but don't worry too much if she doesn't eat.

  

  Step 7. Check that the tub water is warm enough if you notice the reptile not eating after a few weeks

  If it is too cold, this animal will not eat or digest food; use the heater to maintain the correct temperature for your little friend.

  

  Step 8. Give her some privacy when she eats

  Many turtles do not eat if they feel they are being watched; if yours also behaves this way, move away at mealtimes.

  Method 4 of 4: Keep the Aquarium Clean

  

  Step 1. Clean it regularly

  In this way, you maintain a healthier environment for the baby turtle and you can extend the time between a thorough cleaning and the other.

  • The aquatic turtle must eat in the water because it does not produce saliva. Unfortunately, food scraps decompose quickly and easily soil the aquarium; you can use a net to collect leftovers once the meal is finished.
  • Use an aquarium siphon to clean substrate (such as rocks or gravel at the bottom of the tank) every 4 to 5 days. Use a bulb pump to start the siphon and put the end of this in a bucket at a lower level than the aquarium; the force of gravity favors the flow of water to the lowest container.
  • For even better results, you can use the siphon to partially change the water; just make sure you suck up enough liquid (read more below) and replace whatever you remove.

  

  Step 2. Clean or replace the filter regularly

  The material inside the filter retains dirt, food scraps and faeces. If it is a sponge, you have to clean it every week with water; you can also wash the foam filters or, if you are using those made of fabric, synthetic wadding or activated carbon, you have to change them every seven days. Filters are full of germs, so you need to make sure you:

  • Disconnect the filter from the socket before proceeding;
  • Work away from foods and the areas where they are prepared;
  • Wear gloves or avoid cleaning the filters when you have scratches or open wounds on your hands;
  • Wash your arms and hands with soap and water at the end of the procedure;
  • Remove and wash clothes that have become wet with water splashes from the filter.

  

  Step 3. Change the water regularly

  Even if you have a filtration system installed, you still need to replace the water on time to prevent particles and nitrates from accumulating. While it is necessary to change more frequently when you feel it is too dirty, general guidelines are listed below.

  • Small tanks (less than 120 liters): change 20% of the water volume every two days and replace it completely every 10-12 days.
  • Medium to large tanks (more than 120 liters): change half of the water every 5 days and replace it all every 12-14 days.
  • If your aquarium is equipped with high-quality, high-capacity external filters, make a 50% water change every 7 days and a full replacement every 17-19 days.

  

  Step 4. Test the water to make sure you make enough changes

  You need to pay attention to the quality of the creature's habitat, especially in the early stages, to make sure it lives in a clean environment.

  • If the water changes color or emits a strong odor, it means you need to completely change it and clean the tub.
  • The pH (the criterion that measures acidity or alkalinity) should be between 5.5 and 7.0. Purchase a measurement kit of this value at a pet store and use it to check the quality of the water every About 4 days during the first month of the reptile's life; in this way, you can check that the acidity is always at the correct level.

  

  Step 5. Clean and disinfect the tub when you change all the water

  You can do this every 45 days or so, as long as you add reptile-safe disinfectant products (available at pet stores); if not, you need to sanitize the aquarium more frequently to ensure the turtle's good health. If there are real plants rooted in the substrate, you cannot proceed with a complete washing; in this case, you need to monitor the water quality more carefully to make sure the animal is okay.

  

  Step 6. Obtain the appropriate materials for washing and disinfection

  You must prepare everything you need in advance and do the work away from the environments where food is prepared. Be sure to use a turtle-safe disinfectant (buy it from specialty pet stores) or make a solution with 125ml bleach and 4 liters of water. The other necessary products are:

  • Sponges;
  • Scrapers (such as metal spatulas);
  • Tubs of soapy water and clean water for rinsing;
  • Kitchen paper;
  • Trash bags;
  • A spray bottle or bowl with the disinfectant solution, plus another container of clean water for rinsing;
  • A large container in which to soak artificial plants, stones and other mobile elements of the aquarium.

  

  Step 7. Clean the tub thoroughly

  First, remove the animal and place it in a separate container; a bucket with enough water to cover the turtle can do. You must then wash the aquarium, the substrate, the stone or the "land" area and all other elements (such as the heater); use the bathtub or bathroom sink, not the kitchen sink, to avoid contaminating the surfaces where you prepare meals.

  • Unplug the power sockets and remove all electrical devices: heater, filter, lamp, and so on.
  • Wash the surfaces of electrical elements that remain below the water level, using soapy water and a spray disinfectant; rinse carefully.
  • Remove the stone or land area. Wash it with soap, water and then soak it for 10 minutes in disinfectant; then, eliminate any chemical residue with plenty of clean water.
  • Remove the substrate. Wash it with soap and water, soak it in disinfectant for 10 minutes and at the end proceed with a thorough rinse.
  • Clean the aquarium with soapy water and a sponge. Fill it with disinfectant (a mixture of 9 parts of water and 1 of bleach) and wait 10 minutes; after the time has elapsed, empty it and rinse it carefully.
  • Put everything back into the tub, making sure the water is at the correct temperature before pouring it into the bowl.
  • Wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly to avoid contracting diseases such as salmonellosis.