Frogs are among the animals with the greatest variety, with several thousand species living everywhere, from deserts to aquatic environments. Children can enjoy catching tadpoles from a nearby stream and raising them until they turn into frogs. Other amphibian enthusiasts love to see their exotic pet develop and live, sometimes, even 20 years or more. Due to their incredible variety, it is advisable to do research on the species to understand which is the right choice for you before buying or capturing one, always in compliance with national or regional laws that limit and regulate their possession.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Creating a Home for the Tadpoles
Step 1. Learn about the laws regarding tadpole farming in your area
Many countries and regions require a license to be applied for before legally obtaining authorization to breed these amphibians. It may be forbidden to keep some species under any circumstances, usually when it comes to endangered species. Search online for information on national and regional provisions in your area, or contact the relevant wildlife office or forest ranger.
- In particular, Australia has strict rules regarding the breeding of frogs, and these vary from state to state. If you are interested in knowing the Australian legislation you can find a summary of the laws at this link (site in English).
- If you buy tadpoles at a pet store, you can ask the shop assistants about the regulations in the area.
Step 2. Get a plastic or glass container
If it is low and wide it is more suitable than tall and narrow ones, because the greater the contact surface between water-air and the greater the amount of oxygen that the animals receive. You can purchase a plastic "puppy tank" from pet stores, or use any clean plastic or Styrofoam container. Do not use any metal containers or tap water flowing through the copper pipes.
- Try to get a large container to avoid overcrowding with tadpoles. Use a plastic paddling pool if you plan on raising a large amount.
- Frog eggs can also die if kept in a confined space, although the reasons for this are not entirely clear.
Step 3. Fill the container with chlorine-free pond, rain, or tap water
Tadpoles need clean water and could die if you put them in tap water that has not been treated to remove chlorine and other chemicals. The ideal would be to get water from a pond where tadpoles swim, or rainwater. If this is not possible, treat the tap water with tablets to dechlorinate it, which you can buy at a pet store, or leave the container with the water in the sun for 1-7 days to break down the chlorine.
- Do not take rainwater if acid rain occurs in your area or there are large industrial businesses nearby.
- If your tap water contains fluoride, it may be necessary to use filters to remove it before filling the tadpole tank.
Step 4. Add the sand
Some species of tadpoles look for small food particles in the sand and thrive in environments with a layer of about 1.5 cm of clean sand at the bottom. You can use small non-cutting gravel from aquariums, or collect sand directly from a river bank.
Sand collected on beaches and in quarries is not suitable, as it contains dangerous levels of salts or other substances. If you want to eliminate these substances, fill small containers (not the tank for the tadpoles) halfway with sand, then fill the other half with water. Let it sit for 24 hours, drain the water away, then repeat the process with fresh water at least six times
Step 5. Add rocks and plants and find a way for the frogs to get out of the water
Almost all species of tadpoles need to get out of the water easily once they are transformed into frogs, as they may no longer be able to remain permanently submerged. It is a good idea to find rocks that emerge from the surface of the water. The dense aquatic plants you find in pet stores provide more oxygen and also a place where the tadpoles can hide, but they must not cover more than 25% of the surface, otherwise they prevent the oxygen in the air from entering the water.
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Note:
place the rocks near the sides of the tank, as some species of frogs can only come out of the water from the edges of the container and not from the center.
- Do not insert plants that have been treated with pesticides or other chemicals, as they may kill the tadpoles.
Step 6. Maintain a constant temperature
Tadpoles, just like aquarium fish, are sensitive to changes in temperature and could die if you transfer them to a container with a water temperature that is much higher or lower than the water they came from. If you buy tadpoles or eggs at a pet store, find out what temperature you need to maintain. If you are harvesting them from a stream or pond, use a thermometer to measure their temperature and try to keep it in your container as well.
- If you can't find an expert who can identify the species and can give you more precise advice, try to keep the water between 15 and 20 ºC.
- Be prepared to move the tub indoors before the frosts arrive. Keep the water in a partially shaded location if the weather gets too hot.
Step 7. Consider adding an aquarium aerator
If the container is large and there are aquatic plants in the sand, but they do not reach the surface, there is probably enough oxygen from the air and an additional aerator could inflate the tadpoles. If you are only keeping a few tadpoles, they should be able to get enough oxygen even if conditions are not ideal. If, on the other hand, you are keeping a large number of them and your container does not meet optimum standards, then it is worth adding an aquarium aerator to keep the air moving.
Step 8. Purchase frog eggs or tadpoles
Taking into consideration regional and national laws, you can catch tadpoles or frog eggs from an area pond or river. Another possibility is to buy them at a pet shop, but avoid exotic or imported species if you then intend to release the tadpoles into the wild. Frogs can survive many years and require a lot of care, so you should only breed local species, at least on the first try.
- Use a soft net or small bucket to collect the tadpoles and place them in a transportable container filled with the water they swim in. Be careful because they can injure themselves if they are bumped or scratched and if they cannot breathe.
- In general, each 2.5 cm long tadpole requires about 4 liters of water. Keep in mind that most tadpoles grow and get much larger before transforming into a frog. If the tank is too crowded it can lead to illness or oxygen starvation.
Step 9. Add the eggs or tadpoles to the new container, but only when the water temperature has equaled that of their natural habitat
If it is different than the original water, put the tadpoles container in their old water inside the new container, but keeping the opening of the tank above the surface so that the two waters do not mix. Leave them there until the temperatures equalize, then drop the tadpoles into the larger container.
Part 2 of 3: Caring for Tadpoles
Step 1. Feed small amounts of some soft green leafy vegetables to the tadpoles
They thrive best if they are fed soft plant material, which should be given to them in small quantities whenever food is reduced. You can collect algae growing leaves from the bottom of the river or pond and feed the tadpoles. Alternatively, thoroughly rinse some new spinach leaves (never ripe spinach), dark green lettuce or papaya leaves, cut them into small pieces and freeze them before feeding your tadpoles. Ask the clerk at the pet store or find out online before giving the tadpoles any other type of plant.
Flaked fish food is usually not as high quality as the right vegetables, but it represents an alternative as long as it contains mostly spirulina or other plant substances, and not animal proteins. Crush large flakes into small pieces and put a pinch in the tub daily
Step 2. Occasionally feed the tadpoles with insects
While they should get some animal protein from time to time, their digestive systems are unable to handle large amounts. To make sure you don't overdo these protein supplements and that the tadpoles are able to eat them, use frozen food intended for fry, such as chironomids or frozen daphnia. You can feed these foods to tadpoles in small quantities once a week. You can give them large quantities of insects instead, once they become frogs, although for a short time they cannot eat as a result of the transformation.
You can find fry food wherever live fish are sold
Step 3. Clean the water regularly
Whenever it gets cloudy, smelly, or when you notice that the tadpoles remain clustered near the surface of the tank, it's time to change it. Make sure you use the same type of water that tadpoles swim in, and treat it with dechlorination tablets if necessary. Leave the new water outside until it reaches the same temperature as the present one, otherwise the change in temperature could kill the tadpoles. Replace 30-50% of the old water with the new one at a time.
- The water stays clean longer if you don't put in large quantities of food at once. Each serving of food should run out within 12 hours at the latest and be replaced immediately.
- Do not use aquarium filters to keep the tank clean unless you are certain they are too weak to drag tadpoles or force them to swim upstream. The sponge filters can be used safely.
Step 4. Provide them with calcium
Tadpoles need calcium to develop their skeletons and may not be able to acquire enough calcium from their normal diet. Pet shops sometimes sell "cuttlefish bones" for this purpose; make sure they are thoroughly rinsed before placing them in the container, as they are then left inside permanently. Alternatively, get a liquid calcium supplement for aquariums, add one or more drops for every liter of water - depending on the directions - every time you replace it.
A 10 cm piece of cuttlefish bone should be enough for a small tub
Step 5. Prepare for morph
Depending on the species and age, tadpoles can become frogs within a couple of weeks or several months. When they begin to develop legs and lose their tails, the "frogs" should try to get out of the water. Make a plan as soon as you start seeing changes in the tadpoles:
- Most frogs cannot breathe underwater indefinitely, so make sure there is a rock or other non-metal platform on the edge of the tank on which they can climb and reach the air. Some species cannot climb on their own, so you may need to help them with a soft net when you see that the tails are half gone.
- Put a secure lid on your container, with lots of air holes. Place heavy objects on top of it if it doesn't stay airtight to prevent frogs from jumping out.
Step 6. Know how to free the frogs
If you have collected the tadpoles in your area, you can release the frogs into a moist vegetation environment near the same water source where you caught them. If you can't release them immediately, keep them in a plastic tub with a layer of leaves and pieces of bark large enough for them to hide under. Do not fill the container with water, but leave a shallow bowl of water for the frogs to get into, and spray the sides of the container with water once a day.
If you wish to breed frogs, or need to care for them for more than a day before releasing them, continue reading the next section
Part 3 of 3: Caring for Adult Frogs
Step 1. Identify the needs of the frog species you wish to breed before purchasing
Some species require a lot of care, so make sure you know the needs of the one you want to buy before committing to managing a new pet. If you are a beginner, you may want to start with a non-poisonous species that does not grow too large when it becomes an adult. Many frogs dislike being handled or standing still for long periods of time, so these species may be less attractive to children.
- You can choose a local species that you can legally release again if you change your mind and no longer wish to breed it.
- Be aware that some national or regional administrations require a license to breed amphibians, or sometimes prohibit harvesting altogether. Search online for the laws that apply in your region.
Step 2. Find out if your frog lives on land, in water, or in both environments
Many species must have access to both land and water to grow; this may require a special container divided into two parts that allows them to move in both areas. Other frogs on the other hand just need a shallow vessel of water to stand on, while still others are completely aquatic and can breathe underwater, even when they become adults. Make sure you know your frog's needs before installing a tub.
If you collect frogs in the wild, find a biologist or someone with natural resources expertise to identify the species
Step 3. Get a glass or clear plastic container
Glass aquariums or terrarium tanks are best suited for most species. Clear plastic containers are fine too, but be aware that some frog species require ultraviolet light which could damage the plastic in the long run. Make sure the tub is waterproof and escape-proof, but also has plenty of air holes or a lattice structure to ensure adequate ventilation.
- Do not use wire mesh as the frogs may injure themselves.
- For tree frogs and other climbing frogs, choose a large, tall container with space to put branches and structures for them to climb.
Step 4. Maintain the right temperature and humidity
Whether you need a heater and / or humidifier is highly dependent on the frog species you procured and the climate in the area, so seek expert advice or do an online search for more information on the ideal temperature for your frog. If you need to ensure a certain humidity, consider buying a hygrometer to measure it, so you can spray the edges of the container with water if the humidity drops too much.
If you have the container divided into two parts (for air and water), heating the water with an aquarium heater may be the most effective way to keep the environment warm
Step 5. Cover the bottom of the tub with natural material
Whether outdoors or in the water, the frog needs a natural base on which to walk. Again, the exact way to get the right environment depends on the species. Your pet store clerk or experienced frog owner who knows your species may recommend that you use sand, gravel, peat, moss, or a mixture of these.
The Australian species, for example, requires a thicker layer for it to burrow into
Step 6. Install ultraviolet light if needed
Some frogs require ultraviolet light for 6-8 hours a day. Research the species to find out if it is necessary for your case, and ask the pet shop employee which UV light is best suited. There are many types, some of which can overheat the container or emit the wrong wavelengths of light.
As for normal artificial lighting, fluorescent lights produce less heat and therefore dry out the frog's skin less quickly than incandescent bulbs
Step 7. Provide clean water and change it regularly
For terrestrial species, put a plate of rainwater or other water safe for the frog that is large enough for the amphibian to fit comfortably up to the shoulders. If the species you procured requires the container divided into two parts or one completely covered with water, handle it as if it were an aquarium. This means using rainwater or other safe water, installing an aquarium aerator and water filter, and replacing 30-50% of the water with clean water of the same temperature whenever it becomes cloudy or smelly. Change it once every 1-3 weeks for better results, depending on how crowded the tub is.
- Tap water can be treated with dechlorination tablets and, if necessary, with a fluoride filter to make it safe. Do not put tap water if your plumbing system has copper pipes, as some traces of this mineral can be toxic to amphibians.
- If the container is not being kept warm, as it should be for some species, first heat the new water that you need to place in a stainless steel saucepan until it reaches the right temperature. Do not use hot tap water.
Step 8. Add plants or branches as needed
Underwater aquarium plants installed in certain areas of the container can help clean and oxygenate the water, and provide hiding places that frogs like. Climbing frogs need natural or artificial branches to climb, although most species like to hide under large upside-down pieces of bark.
Step 9. Choose suitable live foods
Almost all species eat live insects in nature, so you should stick to guaranteeing them a diet based on various insects. Worms, crickets, moths, and insect larvae are usually appropriate foods; many frogs do not have special needs for what they eat, as long as they are not already used to following a particular diet. However, it is always wise to check your frog's needs, so that you can provide food appropriate to the size of its mouth. Mice or other meat - other than insects - can strain the frog's organs, unless it's a species that was already used to feeding on this type of protein.
- Do not feed them with large ants, as they may kill the frogs.
- Many frogs don't recognize objects that don't move as food, but you might try feeding them single dead insects by bringing them close to their mouth with a pair of tweezers.
Step 10. Supplement your food with calcium and vitamin supplements specific to amphibians
Frogs need a source of these elements, as they cannot get enough by feeding on insects alone. These products are available in powder form and you can spray them on insects before feeding them to frogs. There are many brands available, the best one depends on the diet and characteristics of the frog. As a general rule, you should use separate supplements, one calcium and one vitamin, to be consumed no later than the expiration date, and you should avoid phosphorus-rich supplements if crickets are the frog's main food.
It may be easier to put the bugs with a small amount of powder in a jar, and shake it so that the bugs are sprinkled with supplements
Step 11. Choose meal times based on age and climate
The exact needs of the frog depend on the species, but you can follow these guidelines if you don't have other specific instructions that match your frog. Young individuals cannot eat any food as soon as they emerge from the water, but they will soon start eating quickly and must always have food available to them. Adult frogs usually get well fed once every 3-4 days and eat 4-7 insects suitable for their size. During the cold season they don't need a lot of nutrition.
Remove dead bugs floating on the water whenever you see them
Step 12. Learn how to handle your frog
Many frogs dislike being touched and can also irritate the hands or be damaged themselves by contact with human skin. However, if your frog belongs to a species that you can safely touch, does not fidget or urinate when you pick it up, you can handle it gently. Research species to find out if yours is safe to touch. Even if you don't need gloves, wash your hands thoroughly before and after picking it up and then rinse two or more times to remove all traces of soap or lotion.
Advice
- If the tadpoles have a hard time eating lettuce, boil it for 10-15 minutes to soften it first, then chop it up and freeze it.
- Use an anti-fungal spray diluted to 1/3 the recommended dose if you notice hairy or powdery mildew growing on frog eggs.
Warnings
- If you see any snails in the tadpole tank, remove them immediately and do a complete water change right away. The snails of some areas contain parasites that can cause deformations in the frogs that will grow from the tadpoles.
- Immediately remove the mosquito larvae that live on the surface of the water, if you live in an area where mosquitoes transmit diseases.
- Some trees, such as oleander or pine, can fall leaves that harm the tadpoles. Keeping the container away from trees will minimize this risk and facilitate the necessary cleaning operations.
