Frogs are very cute little creatures, which makes them very unusual pets, but they are very rewarding. However, there are many species of them, and each one needs proper care. Consider the information in this article as simple guidelines on how to choose and care for your house frog, but be prepared to do more detailed research into what breed it belongs to.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Picking the Perfect Frog
Step 1. Familiarize yourself with some species more suitable for beginners
When it comes to frogs, the first thing to understand is that they are present in a huge variety of species; some are easier to care for, while others require a lot of time and specific knowledge. If it's your first house frog, you should consider choosing from beginner species, such as one of those listed below:
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The African dwarf frog:
it is a great choice for a beginner, as it is small, active and easy to care for. It does not require live food and is totally aquatic.
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The red-bellied toad:
this frog is perfect for beginners who prefer to have a land frog. This species is very active and does not overgrow.
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White's tree frog:
also known as the "Australian green tree frog", it is the simplest of all to look after. She has her own way of being active, is very easy to feed and tolerates being touched from time to time (unusual for frogs).
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The horned frog:
it is a very large land frog, and it is very easy to care for. Specimens of its species tend to be somewhat sedentary, which reduces their need for space, but they can be boring pets for children.
- As a beginner, you should avoid buying poisonous or very expensive frogs. Poisonous frogs tend to be very fragile and need special care, while expensive ones can be a risky investment for someone who has never had one. Better to start with something cheap and easy to care for, and gain experience along the way.
Step 2. Avoid choosing a wild frog as a pet
Not the best choice, there are several factors to consider:
- First, it can be difficult to identify the species of the frog caught. Depending on the species, in fact, frogs have different needs in terms of nutrition, temperature and habitat, so if they are kept in the wrong conditions they risk death.
- If you plan on keeping a wild frog, you need to make sure you note the habitat you take it from. You must be able to replicate the environmental elements of the frog, such as the forest bed, the pond or a large stone.
- In any case, it is always best to know the exact species it belongs to by looking for pictures on the internet, consulting books on frogs or asking a local wildlife expert. This will allow you to identify your pet's specific needs.
- Second, many of the species found in the wild are facing demographic declines and even extinction. Taking a frog out of its natural habitat can put the entire community of wild frogs at risk, especially if they are part of an endangered species.
- In some areas it is illegal to take wild animals from their habitat, so make sure you are familiar with regional and state laws before bringing a frog home.
Step 3. Consider the size of the frog and its space requirements
The first things to consider when choosing a house frog are its size (at a mature age) and that of the terrarium that will contain it.
- Usually the cutest little frogs found in pet shops become giant monsters as they grow up. African bullfrogs, for example, measure a few centimeters at a young age, but can reach 20 cm.
- Larger frogs require a lot of space. For example, a mature bullfrog requires a terrarium of at least 300 liters. If they are placed in smaller terrariums they may feel miserable and ill.
- Larger terrariums take up a lot of space in the house and are quite difficult to clean. The frogs that inhabit them naturally require a lot of food, which makes them more expensive than the smaller varieties.
- This is one of the other reasons why you should research the species you are interested in before buying it.
Step 4. Consider the food needs of the frog
Before you rush into purchasing the prettiest (or ugliest, depending on your choice) frog in the store, you need to take a moment to figure out what it eats.
- Most species are happy to eat crickets, worms (such as earthworms) and other small animals of the genus. It's important to keep in mind that frogs usually prefer live food, especially if these things make sense to you.
- Larger frogs often need more food, including mice, goldfish, or guppies. It can be difficult to feed your frog with these pets, and it's definitely not for faint hearts!
- You will also need to consider where the feed comes from. There is probably no "live cricket" department in the supermarket! Do you live near a good pet shop that deals with exotic creatures?
- Sure, you can always find good food in your backyard, but it's not a reliable and time-consuming method. Furthermore, the pesticides that are used in gardens can expose the frog to intoxicating chemicals, putting its health at risk.
Step 5. Find out how active your species is
This is a second consideration, and it is especially important if the frog becomes a child's pet, as they prefer the fun and interesting ones.
- Often the most popular frogs among beginners are the very large, funny or bizarre colored ones; however, these frogs are often the least active. They stand still like statues or sleep all day. They can get bored very easily.
- If you are looking for a more active frog you have to choose between smaller ones, aquatic frogs and some species of tree frogs. These swim or jump often, so they are more pleasant to see.
- You also need to keep in mind that even the most active frogs do nothing more than hopping and eating a few crickets. You can't take a frog for a walk, you can't teach it tricks, and you don't have to handle it. This is a very important issue to consider, especially if you are planning to keep or give it to your child.
Step 6. Having a frog as a pet is a serious commitment
It is important to understand that the level of care a frog requires is not the same as that of a goldfish. Some frogs, in fact, can live for more than twenty-five years!
- As a result, you will need to be prepared to care for your frog for many years to come, feeding it, keeping its habitat clean and treating it for disease.
- You also need to think about how to organize yourself in case you want to go on vacation, as someone will have to take care of the frog while you are away. It can be difficult to find someone willing to do this, especially if your frog only eats live hamsters, or even mice!
- If you want to get rid of the frog because you find that you can't manage it or find that keeping it is too expensive, you will need to do it right.
- If you picked up a wild frog from a local park or a nearby area you should be able to drop it in the same place you found it. Try to place it as close as possible to where you found it, even if it was under leaves or near a river.
- However, if your frog was purchased from a pet store, it is not possible to release it into the wild. You will need to bring it back to the store, or you can decide to resell it or donate it to a local school as a class pet. You could also contact a local animal protection organization.
Step 7. Find out if you need a license
Some places require a license to keep certain types of frogs indoors as pets, especially if they are dangerous or poisonous.
- Smooth xenope, for example, is illegal in two of the United States of America, California and Oregon, because it could endanger local wildlife if released into the wild.
- Contact the relevant local offices for more information on licensing in your area.
Part 2 of 3: Host a Frog
Step 1. Find out what kind of terrarium your frog needs
Each species has its own specific needs when it comes to terrariums, so make sure you know before buying one.
- Terrarium: is the simplest vessel, but should only be used for species that come from dry climates.
- aquarium: is used only for aquatic species.
- Amphibian: it is the most common type, half of the container is filled with water, while the other is dry. Many frogs thrive in this habitat.
- Arboreal terrarium: it is made especially for tree frogs who prefer to spend time climbing on branches. These terrariums are often taller and narrower than others.
- Pond: In some situations it is possible to keep wild frogs in a garden pond. Sometimes building a pond is enough to attract local frogs to your garden, so you don't even have to go catch them! In any case, captive-born frogs should never be left outside, as they could disrupt the local ecosystem by feeding on local frogs or endangered insects.
Step 2. Now that you have the terrarium you just have to choose where to place it
- It must be kept out of direct sunlight, as it could raise the temperature making the habitat too hot and causing discomfort to the frog.
- The terrarium should also be kept away from the kitchen, as smoke and other cooking vapors can be dangerous for the frog.
- Also remember not to expose it to any type of spray (like paint cans or hairspray) because the frogs' skin absorbs any substance it comes in contact with, and these can cause a lot of damage.
Step 3. Use the correct substrate for your terrarium
The substrate is the material that is used to cover its bottom. To choose correctly, you need to know what kind of habitat you want to create, wet or dry, and how difficult it is to clean the material.
- Gravel is the best choice for the most common frog species, it is easy to clean and comes in various sizes and colors. Other great choices include potting soil, pine bark, cedar shavings, and pine shavings.
- Once you have placed the substrate materials in the terrarium, you can decorate it according to your frog's tastes! You can cover the gravel substrate with a layer of moss to give the habitat a more natural look. Make sure the moss is always moist by sprinkling it with distilled water from time to time, and remember to watch out for mold.
- Add rocks or stones to the terrarium so the frog will have something to climb on. Be careful that the rocks have no sharp sides, otherwise it could get injured.
- You can also decorate it by adding plastic branches or live seedlings. Also, an empty trunk always provides a good hiding place. Buy or make a nice background for your terrarium, such as a beautiful rainforest landscape. It will make the frog feel comfortable.
Step 4. Find out what is the best light and temperature conditions for your frog
These parameters vary substantially from one species to another, so be well informed before making any purchases.
- Unlike lizards, snakes, and turtles, many frogs don't need special lighting, as they get their vitamin D from the foods they consume.
- In any case, it is necessary to provide it with a light source for at least 12 hours a day, especially if the terrarium is not exposed to natural light.
- Fluorescent lighting is the best option for frogs because it maintains a mild temperature. Warm lights could be dangerous if the frog decides to jump on them.
- In terms of heat, the ideal temperature for the frog depends on the species to which it belongs. The best way to change the temperature in the terrarium is to change it throughout the room.
- Alternatively, you can buy heating bulbs (which are above the terrarium, rather than inside) or heating supports (which wrap around the outside of the terrarium) to increase the temperature.
- If you intend to heat the water in the aquarium or amphibian you will need to buy a glass tube or immersion water heater.
- Test each heater a couple of days before placing the frog in the terrarium. This way you can monitor its temperature and make sure it's okay for the frog.
Part 3 of 3: Feeding and Caring for the Frog
Step 1. Feed the frog with crickets (and other such pets)
As mentioned, most common species of frogs eat crickets, worms and other insects, while the larger ones can occasionally feed on mice and goldfish.
- The amount and frequency of food depends on the specific type of frog and may require a trial and error process at first.
- You can start with three crickets a day. Let a few days go by, if she eats them quickly and then appears hungry you can increase the number. If, on the other hand, he only eats one or two and ignores the rest, you can reduce it.
- You can also experiment with different types of food, such as flour and wax moths, or grasshoppers to see which one they prefer. Aquatic ones usually like frozen bloodworms or pickled shrimp.
Step 2. Keep the frog clean and hydrated
It is very important to provide the frog with fresh water every day, both for drinking and for bathing.
- Frogs absorb water from their skin, rather than drinking it with their mouths. For this reason they tend to spend a lot of time sitting in ponds or tubs of water. Remember that the water must not contain chlorine.
- You will also need to clean the terrarium at least once a week to eliminate feces, wipe the windows with a cloth, look for traces of mold or algae, and generally maintain a healthy environment for the frog.
Step 3. Avoid handling the frog
Frogs don't like being raised, there's no clearer way to tell. You must try to leave it in the terrarium for as long as possible and be content with looking at it.
- If you can't resist the urge to take it, remember to wash and dry your hands well and avoid putting on creams or lotions because frogs absorb substances from the skin and can be harmful.
- She may try to wriggle out when you pick her up and squirt piss all over you. This reaction is a symptom of the frog's stress, you should put it back in the terrarium as soon as possible.
- Be careful not to drop the frog while holding it, even if it struggles. Falls from high heights could seriously injure you.
Step 4. Keep an eye on his health
When a frog gets sick it is very difficult to cure it, and the prognosis is rarely good. This is why it is better to prevent all kinds of diseases.
- If the frog starts to look thin or malnourished, rethink its diet. A frog cannot survive on a diet of crickets and worms. For example, frogs often suffer from calcium deficiency, so sometimes it is necessary to sprinkle their feed with powdered calcium supplements.
- Keep an eye out for any symptoms of red-leg, a form of bacterial septicemia that usually affects frogs in captivity. The syndrome manifests itself as a redness of the skin in the lower part of the frog's hind legs and in the stomach. During the course of the disease the animal becomes sluggish and apathetic. If you think your frog is affected by this disorder, you must immediately take the terrarium and clean it to remove the parasite; then you have to take daily frog baths in sulfadimidine for a period of two weeks.
- Also watch out for yeast infections and diseases like edema and ranicidal bacteria. In these cases you will need to consult a veterinarian who can prescribe an appropriate antibiotic for your frog.
Advice
- NEVER (or rather, almost never) trust the guidelines of pet shops! They might be wrong! Some stores are particularly careful, but do your research anyway.
- Do not leave small children near the frog, they could squeeze it or hurt it!
- Don't squeeze the frog!
- Frozen dry flies are also great food for frogs, you can find them in many pet stores.
Warnings
- This article is about frogs in general. Do more research on the species you own.
- Always use chlorine-free water! Tap water can kill the frog, unless it is chlorine-free.
