The sewing machine does not work? Are you on vacation and only have needle and thread at hand? Knowing how to fix a hem by hand is an unparalleled skill - it won't be difficult once you master it. In addition, a hand-sewn hem can be practically invisible and, therefore, is an ideal solution that allows you to achieve a flawless finish on your garments.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Form the Hem
Step 1. Iron the garment you need to fix
It is important to remove any wrinkles and irregularities in the fabric so that it stays taut and a neat hem can be sewn.
Step 2. Measure the hem
Put on the garment in front of a mirror and decide where you want to make the new hem. Mark the length with chalk or pins.
- Ask a friend to help you complete this task.
- To determine the length of the hem it is advisable to wear the shoes chosen for that particular garment, because they ensure greater accuracy in the final result.
Step 3. Cut the fabric to the appropriate length under the chalk mark or pin line
You need to have enough fabric to make the crease. For example, if you want to make a 1.3 cm hem, fold in 1.3 cm. You need enough height to fold the hem, but be aware that too much fabric can weigh down the look.
A 2.5 cm hem is recommended for a pair of trousers, a 2 cm hem is fine for shirts
Step 4. Fold the hem back
Most of the time you just need to fold the obverse inwards. The "reverse" of the fabric is the inner side of the garment, which is the one that is not seen. The "obverse" is the external side visible from the outside.
Part 2 of 3: Choose the Stitch to Sew with
Step 1. Use the overedge stitch if you don't have a lot of time
It is the easiest, but the one that lasts the least because the thread is exposed and, therefore, can fray easily. On the wrong side of the fabric it produces oblique stitches, while on the right side the stitches are small and barely visible.
- Hide the knot and pull the yarn through the bottom of the fold.
- Moving from right to left (or left to right if you are left handed), pass the thread diagonally and gather some fabric (as weft thread) over the fold. Orient the needle in the direction you are working.
- Thread the needle in and out of the fold.
Step 2. Try the cross stitch for more elasticity and strength
The cross stitch creates a lightly woven effect on the wrong side and small, almost invisible stitches on the right side. Be aware that it moves in the opposite direction to where you normally work. Right-handed people will go left to right, while left-handed people will go right to left.
- Hide the knot by threading the needle from under the fold.
- Orient the needle in the opposite direction to where you are working. Gather some fabric (a few weft threads) just above the hem and insert the needle into the fabric.
- At this point, take some of the hem fabric and thread the needle, always facing the opposite direction.
Step 3. Try the slip stitch to get a nearly invisible seam
This technique produces crisp, small stitches on both sides, right and wrong sides, giving the seam a clean look. It gets its name from the stitches that slip through the fold of the hem. Right-handed people will work from right to left with the needle pointing to the left, while left-handed people will work from left to right keeping the needle pointed to the right.
- Start with a small stitch at the top of the hem, on the wrong side of the garment. Make it 5mm to 1cm long. The needle should not go outside the garment, but horizontally caress the inside of the fold.
- When you pull the needle out of the fold, pick up some fabric (a few weft threads) just above it.
- Pull the thread through and reinsert the needle into the fold, just below the end of the previous stitch.
- Repeat the first three steps.
Step 4. Try the dead stitch to get a long lasting hem
This is a very sturdy stitch, but very noticeable because it leaves a row of diagonal stitches on the obverse. If you are dealing with rather double fabric, try using this method, without passing the needle from one side of the fabric to the other, so the stitches will not be visible on the outside. Right-handed people will work from right to left with the needle pointing to the left, while left-handed people will work from left to right with the needle pointing to the right.
- Hide the knot by inserting the needle inside the upper part of the hem.
- Pull it out of the fabric along the edge of the hem, giving a stitch about 6-13mm long. Finish by threading the needle through the weave along the top of the fold.
- Start the next stitch right above the end of the previous one.
Part 3 of 3: Sew the Hem
Step 1. Measure and cut the thread
The useful length depends on the circumference of the hem, but it is always better to have more thread than little. A good rule of thumb is to use about 45cm of wire, which equals the length of an arm. Choose a thread that matches the color of the garment.
Step 2. Thread it into a fine needle
Tie a knot on the other end of the thread. Turn the garment inside out. Work with the hem in front of you.
Step 3. Start by making a small stitch along the line to sew on the wrong side of the hem
Basically, pass the needle from behind the top edge of the hem fold. Do not pass the stitch on the right side of the garment.
Step 4. Sew along a predefined line
Continue sewing around the hem, working right to left or left to right (see Part 2 for details). Make small points, evenly spaced. While the stitching shouldn't be too loose, don't pull the stitches too tight.
Step 5. Tie the thread once the hem is finished
Give a small stitch twice in the same place on the edge of the hem fold, but the second time don't pull all the strings. Pass the needle twice through the ring that will form, then tighten the knot by pulling the thread.
- Hide the rest of the thread by inserting the needle horizontally a little over 2 cm into the fold of the hem. Do not let it come out on the right side of the garment.
- Bring the needle to the wrong side and cut the remaining thread.
Step 6. Put on the dress to see if the hems are the same
If you have done the steps properly, the garment is ready to use. If not, you will need to fix, unstitching and mending any areas that look uneven.
If you used the overedging stitch for sewing but want your hem to last longer, replace it with another suggested method, or machine the edge again. The beauty of the quick method is that it allows you to make quick changes and to check the length of the hems, which is ideal during a trip, a fashion show, a photo shoot and similar circumstances
Advice
- After you have cut the fabric, you will need to finish the hem. Some fabrics require more work than others.
- For an even more flawless hem, try the blind stitch.
- If you can choose between hand and machine hem, be aware that machine allows you more options and a much stronger hem. However, if you prefer to use the blind stitch or do a haute couture finish, it's best to sew by hand. Machine hems always give a commercial look to clothing.
- Remember these are quick points, but they require patience. Don't be in a hurry.
- In this type of work it would be better to get help from someone who can judge the correct positioning of the hem. If you don't have any, use a mannequin your height.
Warnings
- Always put the needle back after use to avoid losing it or pricking yourself.
- Keep the needle with at least 6 inches of thread and a double knot at the end. This will make it easier to find it if it falls on the ground.
- The thimble can be useful if you feel pain when you push the needle into the fabric.
