Unless you have an unlimited clothing budget, which allows you to throw away any garment that needs mending, at some point in your life you will find yourself having to fix or hem one of your dresses. The hems give clothes a finished and neat look and help garments last longer by preventing fraying. There are several ways to sew a hem, depending on the final result you want to achieve, but the double fold hem and the blind stitch hem are the most common varieties. None of these techniques are particularly difficult, although it does take some practice to learn.
Steps
Method 1 of 2: Sew a Double Pleat Hem
Step 1. Decide how to sew the hem
You can choose between two modes: by hand or with a sewing machine. While the second option is undoubtedly faster, the first will allow you to make a hem without using too many tools. You can also set up your sewing machine in ways specifically designed to make hems: for a double folded hem use a straight stitch.
Step 2. Fold the hem
Place the garment on a leaning base facing down, with the hem facing you. Fold the fabric up about 1.5 cm and use the iron to flatten it. Starting from the edge then create a second fold over the first by about 1.5 cm, so that the raw edges of the first fold are hidden under the second.
The 1.5 cm size is the standard size used as a seam allowance, but you can use whatever size you prefer
Step 3. Pin the hem to hold it in place
Use several straight pins to stop the crease. Insert the pins so that the colored end (often decorated with a bead) comes out of the hem, while the pointed end fits snugly into the fabric. This will make them much easier to remove as you sew (if you are going to use a sewing machine).
Step 4. Sew the hem
Whether you are sewing by hand or using a sewing machine, remember to use a thread that matches the fabric and sew in straight stitches along the top edge of the fold. Work the entire length until you have sewn the entire hem, then lock the thread and cut off the excess.
Step 5. Iron the hem
You're almost done! To complete your hem you need to iron it so that it stays perfectly flat. If the fabric allows it, use a little steam to help the process. Once finished, turn the fabric up to the front and enjoy your beautiful brand new hem.
Method 2 of 2: Sew a Blind Stitch Hem
Step 1. Find out if you have the tools you need
While it is possible to sew a blind hem by hand, it can be quite complicated; this process is certainly much easier using a sewing machine. To sew a blind hem with a sewing machine, you need two tools: a blind hem foot and the appropriate type of stitch. You can buy the Blind Hem Foot at most haberdashery shops for around € 10. Also remember to check if your sewing machine has a stitch that looks something like this: ^ ---- ^ ---- ^.
Step 2. Prepare the fabric
If you haven't already, wash the fabric to prevent it from shrinking later. Then place it on a support surface, so that the straight side is facing down.
Step 3. Fold the hem
Determine your seam allowance so you know how tall your crease should be - a traditional seam allowance typically measures about 1.5cm. Then fold the fabric up and repeat the process a second time. This will hide the unfinished edge under the fold and it will be invisible in the completed hem. Use an iron to flatten the fabric.
Step 4. Pin the hem to hold it in place
Use a set of straight pins to hold the fabric in place. Insert the pins so that the colored / beaded part appears on top of the fabric, while the pointed part should come out towards the edge of the hem.
If you are using a sewing machine, fold the ironed portion under the fabric. Take the part of the fabric that you just folded and ironed and fold it in the opposite direction, so that it is hidden from the rest of the fabric. Remember to fold it so that about 5 mm remains visible. The fabric should be facing down, while the half-centimeter fold should be facing the front
Step 5. Sew the hem
- If you are sewing by hand, start at the edge of the fold. Right above the fold, grab a small piece of fabric, then go left about 7-8mm and grab a small piece of fold. Exactly above, take another very small piece of fabric. Continue like this until you reach the end of the hem.
- Change the point to have this form: '- ^ ---- ^ -'. Orient the fabric on the sewing machine so that the half-centimeter piece is on the right and the rest of the fabric on the left. Start sewing the hem from where the fold meets the rest of the fabric. You should keep the edge of the sinker at the height of the divider on the foot. Sew the entire length of the hem to the end of the fabric. You should notice the point a ^ hooking onto the body of the fabric, while the straight stitches should remain on the folded part by about half a centimeter.
Step 6. Finish the hem
Knot and trim the excess thread and unfold the hem. On one side (on the back) you should notice the hem sewn with the '- ^ ---- ^ -' stitch. On the other hand, however, the stitches should be "blind" as you should simply see a small dot where stitch a ^ hooks onto the fabric. If you've done everything right, use an iron to flatten the hem and complete your sewing project.
Advice
- Use thread that is as close to the color of the garment as possible. If you don't have the exact color available, choose a shade a little lighter, as it will be less visible on the fabric.
- If you are able to use it, use an overlock machine on the edge to be fixed, to prevent it from fraying.
