Once you decide exactly what you want to knit - a sweater for a baby or a scarf that will keep you warm in the winter - the first thing to do is find a pattern. For those who knit, the pattern is like a map for an explorer. It is a guide that helps to follow the design, the measurement, which explains which needles and stitches are needed. But for a beginner, it will seem like confusing code. But by learning terms and abbreviations, you too will be at ease when you have to interpret a knitting pattern and you can create anything you like.
Steps
Step 1. Choose a yarn similar to that recommended by the diagram. Always buy enough to make a test model. If you need it later, you risk buying a slightly different color bath due to processing variations, even if it is of the same title and color.
Step 2. Choose the needles following the instructions
Knitting needle sizes range from thin (1) to chunky (8, 5) and your chart will be the one to point out the size, even if it's just a recommendation. In reality, the test model will tell you if you need thicker irons than recommended. This is why it is always better to keep the irons, which can last a lifetime. Eventually, if you knit a lot you will end up with a good set of needles of various sizes.
Step 3. Make the sample before starting to work to make sure you have chosen the right needle size and yarn
In the diagram, you will be given a number of stitches and turns to make to get a model usually 10x10. The pattern usually also specifies what kind of stitch to use (usually the same as the project). This is especially important to make sure the finished product is the right size.
- It is advisable to assemble the number of stitches suggested by the diagram to make the model, plus six extra stitches, so as to have a garter border of three stitches. This way the model will not crumple and will have a frame around the area to be measured. Some knitting enthusiasts make different samples.
- Pay attention specifically if the measurements refer to washed, unwashed or indented fabric. Some yarns can change dramatically once washed. Wash the sample with the same method you intend to use for the job once you're done.
Step 4. Measure the sample with a tape measure
Keep it firm on a flat surface with pins, do not stretch it. The area between the garter edges should be 10x10. There should be no need to count the stitches as you did this to fit them on the needle. If you made a sample differently, remember that stockinette stitches look like small v's. Count the v's horizontally for the stitches and those vertically for the rounds.
- If the pattern size doesn't match your specific pattern, you will probably need to try a different size needle. If you need more stitches or rounds per centimeter, use smaller needles. If you have to do less, bigger irons. Each time you try on a new pair of irons, make a new sample to test them. You can also change the pattern by varying the yarn (the thinner one will require more stitches or rounds, the thicker one less) but this is usually inconvenient and shouldn't be necessary if you buy a yarn similar to the one recommended.
- This step can be skipped if you are making a scarf or blanket.
Step 5. Follow the instructions round by round
Better to check at the end of each row. It is also a good idea to mark the turn you are making with a ruler, so that your eyes do not go wrong. This is especially important when you start adding colors or making a design that requires exact counting.
Step 6. Each stitch has a letter or an abbreviation that defines it, followed by a point that indicates how many stitches are needed to make it
The R stands for reverse, D for straight. If your pattern says First Round: 5R, 5D, you should purl five followed by five knits in the first row. Learning the forehand and backhand will allow you to make more complex patterns. These two points are the basis of many schemes. Read the next section to learn other commonly used abbreviations.
Step 7. Repeat the instructions enclosed in asterisks, parentheses, or when "X times" is written
- Example 1: * 1R, 1D implies a forehand and a purl several times until all the stitches on the needle are exhausted. It could also be written like this: [1R, 1R] 2x
- Example 2: 2R, * 8r, 4d, rip. from * ie two purl stitches, eight purl and four straight stitches and repeat from here, ie from eight purl stitches, to the end of the row.
Step 8. Use the corresponding key to interpret your pattern instructions
The instructions will explain what each symbol means. These symbols differ from scheme to scheme so don't worry, practically each one will provide a legend for the symbols and abbreviations to help you understand them.
Method 1 of 1: Common Abbreviations
Step 1.
- cc - contrasting colors; if you work with multiple colors you can find cc1, cc2, etc.
- m1 - make 1 point; it is used in increases
- cp - main color
- ld - straight side, what people will see
- sc. - slide a point
- Mr - stockinette stitch: one row purl, one purl row and so on (or, if you are working in the round, every row knit)
- 2m - straight two stitches together; in other words put the needle through two stitches instead of one and work them together creating a single stitch, it is used for decreases
- ls - left side; the internal one, which will not be seen
- gg - thrown; is used to make increases when you have lace patterns
Advice
- If you are learning, start with something easy. Many schemes specify the difficulty level of the project. Read some manuals. Some have simpler instructions than others. If you try a difficult pattern at first you might get discouraged and let it go. Start with something small and you will improve as you go. Knitting requires patience.
- Use plain yarn for your first project so you can see the stitches clearly. Wait until you've done a couple of things before using hairy, lurex, or very dark colors.
- Buy a crochet hook. If you drop a shirt you can hang it up and work it up to the needle to assemble it again.
- If you use a table, buy a metal board with magnetic strips (at stationeries). You can arrange the pattern on the board and put a strip under the round you are following. This way you will keep track of it while concentrating without making mistakes. Post-its and highlighters are also good for this purpose.
- The wool shop usually provides instructions and answers, so ask. If you don't understand the instructions and there is someone who can explain them to you, don't leave until you understand exactly what you need to do. You may also find a knitting group that meets once a week. It's great for learning and making new friends.
- The finished product size is sometimes referred to as "after return." Indentation is a technique for reshaping the fabric usually after washing it. For example, many sweaters are retracted by placing them on a surface and beating them to fix them while they are still damp, then allowing them to dry.
- Read carefully to understand the instructions before starting. See if there are any stitch or stitch changes. Consider color changes. Count your points every so often to make sure you haven't inadvertently added or lost points (or, if increases and decreases are expected, that you are doing them correctly). A lap counter can also help - if you don't have it you can mark them on a sheet.
- If you have multiple size charts, use a highlighter (a different color for each size) for the one you choose. This will make it easier to follow the pattern changes and you will not spend time scrolling through the lines to find the point you missed.
