In old houses with an inadequately waterproofed basement, installing a drainage pump is an excellent way to reduce or even eliminate the problems of humidity or stagnation of water. If your problem is having water in the cellar, learn to recognize the causes and evaluate if a pump is the solution for you.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Identify the Causes
Step 1. Take a look at your basement when it rains a lot
Most basement water problems are not the result of basement problems, but the consequences of poor external drainage. Before starting work, check that there are no other problems.
- Make sure that the gutters are not blocked and that they are free of leaves and other debris so as to allow the water to drain easily.
- Make sure that the downspouts channel rainwater far enough from the house and that there are no reflux problems. The downspouts should drain the water at least 4-5 meters from the foundations.
- Make sure that the land around the house slopes towards the outside. If you have a well near your home, before installing a pump, check that this is not the cause of the presence of water in the cellar.
Step 2. Check for a gravel subgrade underneath the concrete foundations
Most of the houses built in the past thirty years have been built on a gravel sub-base to level the bottom of the excavation. You can get this information by contacting the company or the builder of the house or directly from the neighbors.
Before you demolish the floor, consider all possible solutions to find this information
Step 3. Check where to place the sump
We recommend that you place the sump near a wall in the basement, since the pump discharge pipe will have to convey the water at least 3 meters away.
- Identify a convenient spot to work and not too far from the wall that you will need to drill to create a connection hole with the outside where the water can drain.
- Keep a distance of at least 20 cm from the foundation wall, to avoid hitting the foundation (if you have the house plans, check the distances).
- Make sure you do not cut the water pipes. The pipe that carries the drinking water inside the building can run on the wall or on the floor. A thorough reading of the technical drawings can help you.
Step 4. Proceed to mark the shape of the cockpit lining on the floor, leave a space of at least 8-10 cm around it
You will have more wiggle room to insert the liner into the hole.
Part 2 of 3: Dig the Pit
Step 1. Remove the concrete floor
This can be quick if you use an electric jackhammer that you can easily rent. Cut the concrete by breaking it into pieces and avoid crushing it. After making the vertical cut, move the pneumatic hammer at an angle to undermine the pieces and remove them from the work area.
- Alternatively, you can use a hammer drill, a good hammer and a chisel. Insert a drill bit suitable for working on concrete and start making holes at a distance of a few centimeters from each other along the entire external perimeter and then use a hammer and chisel to break the concrete between the holes.
- Keep drilling and splitting the concrete until you can remove it in blocks. If the floor was reinforced with steel mesh, it may need to be cut with a pair of wire cutters or a grinder / flex.
Step 2. Dig the pit hole
The excavation should be at least 30 cm deeper than the sump lining. Use buckets to take the excavated material outside.
- Insert medium-sized gravel into the bottom of the hole so that the sump liner rests level. The gravel will favor drainage and carry the water into the well from where it will then be pumped out (instead of stagnating in your cellar).
- Depending on the type of coating used, it may be necessary to make numerous holes in the sump lining to allow water to enter and ensure that the pump conveys it outside. The holes should be smaller in diameter than the size of the gravel used, to prevent this from being dragged into the pit.
Step 3. Position the lining inside the excavation
Place the gravel around the sump lining, up to about 10/12 from the floor level. You can use gravel with a size ranging from a minimum of 1 cm to a maximum of 2.5 cm.
Step 4. Cover the hole with concrete
Mix the concrete and pour an approximately 12 cm layer of concrete over the gravel, using a trowel, to the edge of the sump liner, creating a smooth surface. Let it dry well (at least 8 hours) before resuming work.
Part 3 of 3: Install the Pump
Step 1. Assemble the connecting pipes from the pump to the hole made in the wall towards the outside
Most pumps use 380mm PVC tubing, so be sure to check your pump's mounting instructions first to be sure. Leave a piece of pipe to the outside, possibly you can connect a flexible pipe to convey the water to the sewer or elsewhere.
- When assembling the pipes, make sure everything is perfectly dry before fixing anything. Work in a well-ventilated environment to minimize exposure to any toxic vapors and perfectly seals the openings to the outside. The installation of pipes and joints will depend on your home and the type of foundations of the building, so it is advisable to have adequate experience.
- Use a cup drill to make the hole. It is always better to make the hole from the outside to the inside than vice versa.
Step 2. Position the pump level, join the connecting pipes and plug in the electrical outlet
Step 3. Check the position of the float
The pumps are equipped with different types of floats and it is important to make sure that the float is free from obstacles, so that it can rise and fall according to the level of water present in the sump. In fact, as the water enters the sump, the float must be able to rise up to the point where the pump is activated and therefore, when the water has been completely eliminated, fall back without getting stuck between the pump and the covering wall of the cockpit. Place the pump in the center of the sump and check for proper operation.
Step 4. Install the check valve
This valve is used to avoid the backflow of water that remains in the pipe after the pump is turned off. Place it and tighten with a screwdriver.
Step 5. Verify the correct functioning of your system
Fill the well with water using a bucket and check that the pipes have no leaks, that the water flows outside and that the valve is working properly when the pump turns off.
Advice
- It is possible to add an additional 12 volt "deep cycle" battery backup pump complete with battery charger, float switch and a "high water" alarm. In the event that the power fails during a storm or in the event of heavy rain (a situation in which the pump is essential), you may find yourself with water in the cellar. Use the second pump until the battery is completely discharged or until the electricity returns.
- It uses flexible rubber tubing, makes it easy to clean or replace and also reduces noise.
- Put a filter outside the sump liner and possibly also on the bottom if you used a bottomless liner, this will prevent soil and sediment from entering the pump.
- Most drainage pumps are electrically powered.
Warnings
- Wear protective gloves when preparing and using concrete.
- Use protective gear such as a mask, goggles, and earplugs when demolishing concrete.
