The gutters are a fundamental part of the roof and serve to convey rainwater into special drains, so that the humidity does not damage the walls and foundations of the building. In addition, they prevent soil erosion, moisture damage on external walls and water infiltration in the foundations. It is essential that the gutters are of the right size and that they are installed with the correct inclination that allows adequate water disposal. Installing gutters is an operation that anyone can do on their own, with a little effort and the right equipment. Read on to learn how to install or replace gutters on your roof.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Preliminary Operations
Step 1. Calculate the overall length of the perimeter of your roof and purchase adequate quantities of gutters, mounting brackets and drain pipes to complete the job
The gutters must be fixed to the eaves line, which is the lowest line of the roof itself and surround the entire building with drainpipes that bring water to ground level or, more often, to underground drain pipes that eliminate the water in the sewer. If the gutter is more than 10 meters long, it must be installed in such a way as to ensure a constant slope starting from the center towards the two sides where the drain pipes will be connected. The gutter must be secured with supports positioned approximately 80 centimeters from each other.
- Depending on the material and diameter of the gutter, the costs vary from 3 to 5 euros per meter for aluminum gutters, while in copper they cost much more, up to 30 or 40 euros per meter.
- The exhaust pipes have similar costs and the support brackets cost between 5 and 10 Euros on average.
Step 2. Inspect the roof edge to make sure it is solid and for signs of leaks or other moisture damage
It is not recommended to install supports on a surface that could fail, in which case it is best to consult with a professional appraiser or installer to decide how to proceed.
- Evaluate whether to restore the roof even only for the final part if sufficient.
- If you believe that the infiltrations are due to the humidity that originates from the old gutter no longer suitable, with the new installation you should solve this problem.
- If, on the other hand, you believe that the damage from humidity has another origin, find the solution first to avoid wasting time and money.
- In the case of gutters longer than 10 meters, you must provide a slope that starts from the middle and goes down equally towards the two ends.
- Gutters shorter than 10 meters can have an inclination that starts from a point to go down towards the drain.
- The aluminum foil you add can be pre-painted to have the same color as the other elements.
- Make the aluminum foil a few centimeters longer than the segment to be covered. Cut a triangular piece on the top edge, and then fold each end over the corner of the eaves, creating a uniform and precise visual effect.
- To attach the drain hose to the fitting, use pliers and bond the metal, or use silicone or other water-resistant glue.
- For a better seal, use metal rivets or special screws.
- Try the new gutters. Do a leak test by introducing water with a garden pump at the highest point, to verify the correct inclination and drainage of the system.
- By placing a metal mesh screen (or other special accessory that you find on sale) in correspondence with the drains, you will avoid obstructing the pipes with leaves and other debris, which will remain in the gutter which will need to be cleaned more often.
- Repair any damage to the roof or shingles before installing the gutters.
Method 2 of 3: Define the Slope of the Gutter
Step 1. Take a measurement and mark with pinstripe thread
The gutters must be effective in removing water from the roof, and for this purpose they must be slightly inclined towards the drain pipe.
Step 2. Find the highest point to attach the first support
As just explained, if the length of the gutter exceeds 10 meters, the highest point must be positioned halfway along the length, while if the overall length is shorter it will be sufficient to position the highest point on the opposite side of the drain.
Mark the highest point with a trace about 3 centimeters below the tiles
Step 3. Now find the end point, which is where you will install the drain hose
This is usually located at the corners and a drain pipe can receive water from the two gutters that flow into the same corner.
Step 4. The end point of the gutter is established by applying an inclination of about two centimeters every three linear meters
For example, if you calculate the slope required for an 8 meter gutter, the end point should be about 5 centimeters below the highest point
Step 5. Mark a line with the pinstripe thread between the highest point and the bottom point
Try to get as straight a line as possible. This line must be a track for fixing the gutter, so it is best to be as precise as possible.
Method 3 of 3: Measure, Cut, Install the Gutters
Step 1. Cut the gutters to the correct length for each segment to be installed
Use a hacksaw or metal shears. If there are corner joints, you will need to cut a few segments at a 45 ° angle.
Step 2. Secure the fixing brackets on the roof, choosing the points corresponding to the roof support beams
Find the support beams, which are usually spaced at even intervals, by looking for telltale signs on the roof. Once located, mark one out of two and plan to install the brackets in correspondence.
Depending on the type you have chosen, the gutter is fixed on the brackets with fixing screws or by interlocking
Step 3. Mark the drain hole on the gutter
Use a jigsaw to cut a hole in the intended place to fit the drain pipe.
Step 4. Secure the drain fitting and end piece with silicone sealant and short screws for a better seal
Each end must be closed with a special element that seals the gutter and avoids water leaks in case of intense flow rather than obstruction of the drain.
Step 5. Install the gutters
Insert the gutters into the supports by tilting the gutter until it fits into the support, and then snap them into place. Check the specific instructions for the section and type of gutter purchased. Once in place, the gutter should not move in its housing.
You must install a support every 60 cm approximately and secure it with screws and dowels of at least 5 cm in length
Step 6. Cover the underside of each corner with aluminum foil, then waterproof it with a silicone layer
this prevents water from getting into the corners of the metal if not professionally welded.
Step 7. Connect the fittings and drain hoses
Make sure the hose is fixed properly to avoid liquid leakage.
