Growing plants in pots allows you to skip all the weeding and soil cleaning phases, so you can go straight to the fun part! Start by creating the right light and soil conditions for the type of plants you want to plant. When you're ready to plant, carefully arrange the plants in the pot and water the soil to help them settle into their new home. Water, fertilize and prune them regularly, being careful of pests and any diseases. With a little effort, you can keep your plants throughout the season and, depending on the species, for years to come.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Creating the Right Conditions
Step 1. Choose pots that have drainage holes
Containers exist in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes, but the most important requirement is the drainage function. Make sure any container you buy has small holes in the bottom so that plant roots don't get submerged in water.
- If you need to use a pot without drainage holes, also buy a pot that has holes and is slightly smaller than the pot so that it can fit inside the pot.
- Choose a saucer that fits the container you use. The saucer should be placed under the pot, to collect excess water and not let it leak out.
Step 2. Choose plants that prefer light if you want to expose them in full sun
The best location depends on the type of plants. Those suitable for being in full light should be placed outdoors where the sun shines or indoors, near windows.
- If you already have a location for the pot in mind, take a look at the surrounding space before buying the plants. Make sure the plant gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day; otherwise choose one suitable for shade or partial sun exposure.
- Full sun options include most flowering plants, such as petunias, geraniums, sage, lilies, canna, and lilacs. Other sun-loving plants are those that produce fruits and vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. Most aromatic plants - including basil, lavender, and thyme - also require a lot of sun.
Step 3. Opt for shade-loving plants to place them in places that don't get much sunlight
Look for plants labeled "shade tolerant" or "moderate sun". This means that the plant needs 3 hours of sunlight per day, or even less.
- Some good flowering plant options include begonias, impatiens, crocus, vinca, lily of the valley, and some types of tulips. Ajuga and coleus tolerate shade and produce beautiful leaves of various colors.
- Although they grow best in moderate sun, spider plants and snake plants tolerate low light levels. They are common indoor plants and require little attention.
Step 4. Use potting soil that has adequate drainage capacity
Soil from a field would dry out and clod, while the garden soil you buy is too dense to allow for good drainage. If you already have a pack and don't want to spend on potting soil, mix equal parts garden potting soil, peat moss, and perlite.
- Store-bought potting soil is the best choice for most plants. However, some have specific needs. For example, if you plant orchids, you will need soil that is rich in bark and other organic material.
- Fruits and vegetables prefer nutrient-rich or moisture-retaining clay soil.
- Cacti and other succulents prefer well-drained, sandy soil. Search the store for a cactus soil mixture or one that is made up of equal parts sand and loam.
Step 5. Adjust the acidity of the soil to make sure it has the right pH, if necessary
You can test the pH of the soil and correct it to suit the needs of your plants. Add sphagnum peat or sulfur to make it more acidic and lime dust or wood ash to make it less acidic.
- Some plants, such as banksia and grevillea, are sensitive to phosphorus and need a soil with low acidity and low amounts of phosphorus. Camellias and azaleas, on the other hand, thrive in soil rich in phosphorus and acids.
- When buying soil mixes, follow the recommendations on plant labels regarding pH and phosphorus levels.
Step 6. Give the plants the right space
Shrubs such as hibiscus, fuchsia, bougainvillea, and plants that produce fruits and vegetables normally need a lot of space to grow. Use containers that are at least 30-60 cm deep and contain 20-40 liters of soil.
- Plants such as the rubber tree, tomatoes, peppers and carrots do best when isolated, as they have a large root system and consume a lot of nutrients.
- Plants with a more limited root system, such as pansies, cineraria, daisies, ajuga, weed, and succulents also do well when placed side by side with other plants. To give room for their growth, leave at least 10-15 cm of space between one plant and another, or as reported on the labels.
Part 2 of 3: Prepare the Container
Step 1. Fill a third of the vase with stones, pot shards or styrofoam shavings
Unless you're planting a small tree or shrub with an extended root system, line the bottom of the container with stones, broken pot shards, styrofoam shavings, crumpled cans, and plastic bottles. Fill it about 1/4 or 1/3 of the height with materials of your choice.
- The backfill material will facilitate drainage and will also reduce the amount of potting soil used, limiting costs. Small items like stones and shards are perfect for succulents that require good drainage and aromatic plants in small pots. Use larger items, such as jars or plastic bottles, for larger containers.
- Instead, use less drainage material for plants with an extensive root system, such as small citrus trees and other shrubs, tomatoes, and strawberries. A 3-5 cm layer of stones and pieces of pots will offer good drainage without suffocating the roots.
Step 2. Cover with soil up to 2-5 cm from the edge of the container
Empty the sack of soil into a large container or use a gardening scoop to fill a small pot. Make sure the soil stays soft, and to smooth out any mounds, shake the pot instead of pressing. If you leave about 2-5 cm of space between the earth and the edge of the pot, you can water the container without the water spilling out.
The space between the earth and the edge of the container also allows you to dig the grooves in which to house the plants
Step 3. Water the plants abundantly, then take them out of the plastic tubs
Sprinkle them with water to prepare them for the transplant. Take one and place your hand over the tray holding the stem of the plant between your fingers. Turn the bowl upside down and press gently on the sides to loosen the roots and clod of earth.
- Do not pull the stem to remove the plant from the tray and try to move the roots as little as possible.
- Pull out the plants one at a time. Remove one from the plastic, transplant it, and move on to the next.
Step 4. Gently massage the clod of earth to stimulate growth
After removing the pan, lightly massage the roots with your fingertips to soften the soil all around. Do not shell or scrub the sod and do not remove all the earth. Just try to loosen the roots a little to stimulate them to expand into their new home.
Step 5. Dig a hole the same size as the root ball
Dig a groove large enough in the center of the space to accommodate all the roots. This should be deep enough to place the collar (where the roots meet the stem) at ground level. Settle the sod in the area, then cover with more potting soil to level the surface.
If you are only planting one plant in the pot, there is no need to worry about the arrangement or spacing of other plants
Step 6. Place the taller ones in the center if you are planting several plants instead
Start by creating a groove in the center to accommodate the larger ones. Place the root ball into the hole so the collar is level with the soil, then fill the hole to smooth out the surface.
For example, if you have tall plants like dracaena or formio, plant them in the center of the pot. If you have a deep enough pot, you can also employ azaleas, hibiscus, and elephant ears as tall focal points
Step 7. Add the lower plants to the sides of the container
When you're done planting the taller plants, keep filling up the sides with flowers, canes, or other smaller specimens. Create an intermediate layer of flowering or brightly colored plants and arrange the vines that will extend outside the pot about 5cm from the edges.
- Perfect plants as a filling include coleus, ajuga and hostas. Petunias, sage types, pansies, and geraniums are other common options that add a pop of color.
- Beautiful hanging plants, i.e. those whose foliage overflows outside the pot, include soldina grass, clematis, ivy and sedum.
- Space the plants about 10-15cm apart, or according to the instructions on the labels. Don't worry if the pot is thin. Plants need space to grow and will fill in the gaps in a few weeks.
Step 8. Wet the soil when you finish planting
Soaking the earth carefully will avoid transplant shock. Pour in the water until the pot begins to drain and the surface is saturated. Depending on the size of the container, it may take several minutes to fully impregnate it. The water will drain from the bottom of the container, so be sure to place the jar on a saucer.
- Stop watering when water starts leaking out of the drainage holes in the bottom.
- Room temperature water is ideal, especially for tropical plants such as elephant ears, bougainvillea and orchids. If the water from the hose or faucet is frozen, fill a pitcher or watering can and allow it to warm to room temperature.
- Tap water is normally fine, if without water softeners. The one treated with softeners can facilitate the accumulation of salts. Distilled water, on the other hand, is the best solution for carnivorous plants such as nepentas and dionea. These prefer a soil with few nutrients and do not like the minerals contained in tap water.
Part 3 of 3: Caring for Plants
Step 1. Use a saucer to catch excess water
A saucer will keep the dirty water from spilling on the floor, on the edge of the window or on the table. Empty the saucer about an hour after watering to prevent the roots from rotting.
If the container is too heavy and you can't move the saucer, use a blower to extract excess water
Step 2. Water the pot when the soil is dry or according to the instructions on the plant's label
The right amount of water depends on the individual plants, the size of the container and the location (indoors or outdoors). As a general rule, stick a finger in the dirt and wet it only when it feels dry.
- If the soil is wet and your finger penetrates easily, do not water. If the soil is dry and the finger does not penetrate easily, the plants need water.
- For most plants, it is preferable to water abundantly and then let the soil dry completely rather than keeping it constantly wet.
- Most flowering plants, fruit plants, vegetables and aromatic plants need water on a daily basis. Cacti and other succulents, on the other hand, need to be watered every 2-4 days at the most.
- If in doubt, check the plant's label and water as directed.
Step 3. Add slow release fertilizer granules every month or as directed
The earth becomes depleted of nutrients every time you water, so you will need to fertilize potted plants regularly. Regular slow-release fertilizer granules are fine for most plants, but check the plant label for specific instructions.
- Use about half a teaspoon of granules per 4 liters of soil. Spread them on the ground, then use your fingers or a small scoop to get them to about 2 inches deep.
- In general, flowering plants, fruit plants and vegetables need more nutrients than aromatic or succulent plants. At the height of the season or when the fruit is ripe, plants such as tomatoes and peppers should be fertilized every 1 to 2 weeks. Beware of any yellow leaves, however, which can indicate over-fertilization.
- Instead, don't worry too much about fertilizing flavors like basil, coriander, lavender, and rosemary. These tend to over-fertilize, so an application every 3-4 months is the best solution.
- Cacti and other succulents only need to be fertilized once or twice a year.
Step 4. Prune the plants whenever you see dead leaves
Use clean pruning shears to prune dead flowers and leaves. Cut them at a 45 degree angle just below the brown or dead part. Prune the regrowth at a 45 degree angle about 1.5cm above the lump to keep fast growing plants in check.
- The lump looks like a lump or bud where regrowth occurs.
- If you are pruning aromatic plants or a fast growing plant, avoid removing more than 30% of the plant in one go. Cutting away too much can be a shock to the plant and can cause it to die.
- Pruning facilitates growth and makes plants thicker and more robust.
Step 5. Also remove any rotten or infected parts of the plant
In addition to normal pruning, you will need to remove any infected leaves; signs of the disease include black or brownheads, yellowing, white spots, and bad odor. If the problem persists, buy a plant fungicide spray.
- Look for a fungicide formulated specifically for your plant at a garden store or nursery. Read the instructions and apply as directed.
- Common diseases include black or white fungal or bacterial spots, fungal blight (characterized by a rusty-colored layer), gangrene, and dead or rotten areas on the plant stem.
Step 6. Apply insecticides if the plant is infested with pests
To get rid of pests, look for an insecticide in a gardening shop. If you keep plants indoors, make sure the product is suitable for indoor plants. Read the instructions and apply as directed.
- Insecticides are mostly indicated for specific plants, listed on the instructions. Check if they are suitable for your plants or ask a salesperson for advice.
- Common parasites include plant lice, ants, midges, mites, and whiteflies.
- While plant lice, ants and midges are visible to the naked eye, the mites are difficult to spot. Look for layers of thin membrane with small, barely visible dots. Signs of mite infestation include small, light green spots on the leaves and stem, yellowing, and crumpled or dead leaves.
Advice
- Choose containers that you like, but that are functional. If you want to place them in front of the front door, buy pots that match well with the outside of the building. For the living room, choose one that matches the furnishings or adds a touch of color.
- If you already know which and how many plants you want to grow, choose pots large enough to hold them. For example, a few small pots are enough to grow aromas on the windowsill. If you want to plant a rubber tree, choose a container of about 40 liters of soil instead.
