Cage training harnesses the dog's natural instinct to seek a safe haven to sleep in. The aim is to make the cage a place to feel protected by associating it with pleasant things. If done correctly, cage training is healthy for the dog and helps reduce stress. In addition, since his instinct is not to soil the burrow, the cage is a great tool to teach him to do his own needs outside the home. Unfortunately, the downside to this method is that the carrier is often misused as a place to restrict and punish the animal. Such behavior goes against the fundamental principle of this type of training, which is to create strong bonds between pleasant things and the cage.
Steps
Method 1 of 6: Choose and Prepare the Cage
Step 1. Calculate the appropriate size
The cage should allow the pet to have enough space to stand, sit and stretch out, but it should not be too large for the dog to have a corner to use as a toilet and another to sleep at night.
- The ideal is to buy two cages: one for when it is a puppy and another larger one for when it becomes an adult.
- You can also consider adapting a large cage for a puppy by blocking access to an area to accommodate the pet's small size.
Step 2. Choose the type of carrier you want to use
You can find on the market different types and models of cages at different prices. Some even look like real furniture and can even be used as a coffee table, as well as a cage. Be sure to carefully evaluate the benefits of each model before purchasing it.
- Kennel type carriers are made of hard plastic and are closed (excluding the ventilation holes of course) on all sides, except at the front, which has an iron door. Many of these are allowed by many airlines, so they can be good options if you plan to travel with your faithful friend.
- The wire mesh cages are made of hard wire, which cannot be chewed and allows the dog to see outside on all sides. However, these do not create a "den" feeling like most dogs prefer, so it may not be the best solution, although it is often the least expensive.
- An enclosure with metal walls, but without the top cover, is another solution for very young dogs, but be aware that adult dogs may knock it over or turn it upside down, so you should only use it under your supervision.
- A hard-bottomed carrier can become more comfortable if you put on some washable cloths or cloths.
Step 3. Determine an ideal place to place the cage
You should find a point that remains constant. You can choose a place that is very popular and where different family members spend a lot of time, but you also need to give the animal some time to rest from various activities, especially at night.
Step 4. Provide distractions within the carrier
If your four-legged friend has a specific toy that he particularly loves and that is a source of comfort for him, put it in the cage to give the pet the idea that this is a nice place to be. However, make sure that whatever is left with the dog is sturdy enough or otherwise resistant to chewing, so that the animal does not risk choking. You must avoid that, when left alone, it can chew something or ingest fragments causing an intestinal blockage.
Step 5. Cover the pet carrier, if it is wire mesh
To help your pet feel more comfortable, cover the top and sides of the cage with wire mesh; the darkness, as well as the feeling of not being constantly controlled, will help make him feel safer. Be aware, however, that anything that acts as a cover, such as a blanket or towel, can be pulled through the cracks in the cage and chewed if the dog is particularly bored or anxious.
Place a piece of plywood on top of the crate, large enough to extend approximately 12 inches beyond the sides of the cage. then spread over it a cloth that falls along the walls. This way the plywood leaves the blanket out of the dog's reach
Step 6. Put some treats inside the cage
As part of cage training, it is important to distribute the goodies inside, so that the dog associates it with a perfect place to be, where good things happen. There is no need to put food or water in, though: healthy, fit dogs don't need water overnight (the longest time the animal can be left in the cage), unless the weather is very hot.
Method 2 of 6: Train him for the night
Step 1. Make the crate comfortable and quiet
Even if it is in a very busy area during the day, it should still be a safe and quiet place in the house at night. Also, it should be in a fairly easy-to-clean area in case the dog accidentally gets dirty - for example, on a tile floor instead of carpet.
Step 2. Use the cage for the night
There will most likely be nights when your dog won't be completely used to the cage, but it's still important to keep him safe at night. Play with him during the day to tire him out, then put him in the carrier, give him a treat to distract him and close the door; finally leaves the room. Ideally, you should only come back and let him out when he is not crying, so that he does not associate the moans with a sudden "release".
Alternatively, you can use a cardboard box for the night. You should place your dog, especially if he is a puppy, in a large cardboard box next to the bed for the first two nights while you do cage training during the day. The downside to this, though, is that if he gets too used to sleeping next to your bed, it will become even harder to move him to the cage later on
Step 3. Give your puppy a few moments during the night to relieve himself
The maximum time your puppy can stay overnight is 4 hours, so you need to set the alarm (ideally every 2-3 hours). When the alarm goes off, take the puppy out of the carrier or box and take him outside to satisfy his bodily needs; then put it back in its "nest". Know that if you have an adult dog he can last longer, but if he is not yet trained to go out for his own needs, you should do the same for him too.
During this operation, do not stimulate him and do not talk to him. You don't have to make him believe that the night is a game time
Method 3 of 6: Familiarize yourself with the Cage
Step 1. Do not force the dog to enter the cage
You must never force him to go in and close the door. Likewise, you must never put him in the cage as a punishment. Remember that it should not be lived as a prison, where you can enter when you do something wrong, but a space where good things happen and where you enter willingly because you feel safe.
Step 2. Restrict the dog to one room initially
You have to make sure that the dog "finds" the cage of his own free will, so that he can get back into it more easily. If you keep him limited to just the room where the cage is, it will be easier for him to find and explore it as he wishes.
Step 3. Leave the pet carrier door open
When you are training your furry friend to familiarize yourself with the cage, you must place the cage in the place you have used and leave the door open. If you have the chance, the best thing is to put a blanket inside that smells like her mother and brothers; doing so will make it even easier for the dog to get close. At this stage of training, always leave the cage door open, so that the dog can enter and exit freely. Closing the door must take place in the later stages of the training process, when he has accepted and recognized the carrier as his lair.
Step 4. Fill the pet with praise
When you see him peering into the cage and approaching, show him a strong enthusiasm and praise him. Whenever it enters, leave whatever it is you are doing and fill it with attention and encouragement. This will help him associate the cage with positive feelings.
Step 5. Scatter the cage of delicacies
Occasionally, you can add whatever special delicacies your friend likes, such as bits of cheese or chicken. In this way you make the environment an exciting place for him, worth exploring, and the delicacies are his reward.
Step 6. Feed the dog inside the cage
Make sure you leave the door open while you feed it. As mentioned, the association with food makes it the perfect place for your new friend. If you see that it only fits partially, place the food bowl no further than where the dog can enter and feel comfortable. As she gets used to eating in the cage, you can put the bowl further and further to the bottom.
Step 7. Close the cage door when your dog is happy to eat his meals there
When you see that he gets used to eating inside and gets into it completely, you can start closing the door during meals. As soon as he has finished eating, you reopen the door; by doing so he gets used to the idea of being closed, without this causing him particular problems.
Step 8. Start increasing the time he spends in the cage with the door closed
Once he gets used to the closed cage during meals, gradually increase the time. The ultimate goal is to get him to accept the idea of having the cage closed for 10 minutes after eating.
- Make sure you follow a slow process, gradually increasing the number of minutes you keep the door closed and giving your dog time to get used to it before moving on to the next step. For example, leave it in the cage for 2 minutes after eating and keep this time for 2-3 days before increasing to 5 minutes; then keep 5 minutes for 2-3 days before increasing the time to 7 minutes.
- If the dog starts whining, you've probably increased the time too quickly. In this case, next time leave it closed for a shorter period.
- Always remember to only let your dog out of the cage when he is not crying, otherwise he will learn that crying allows you to open the door.
Step 9. Use a command to get him into the carrier
During the cage training process, it is also helpful to associate a command with the entrance. Over time, just use the command to encourage him to come in when you want.
- Choose a command like "Caged" or "Kennel" and wave your hand to indicate the cage.
- When the puppy enters, say the command.
- During meals, use the command and then put the food inside.
- Start by saying the command yourself first and when your dog enters the carrier, put a treat inside to reward him.
Method 4 of 6: Accustom the Dog to Being Alone in the Cage
Step 1. Stay at home initially
It is important that the dog does not immediately associate his cage with being alone or abandoned. Therefore, you do not have to use it when you are away from home, until you have accustomed it to staying there for a long period of time.
Step 2. Encourage the dog to enter the carrier
You should give it a treat when it enters it. Close the door and stay close to him for a few minutes. Remember to open it only when it is not crying.
Step 3. Repeat this step regularly
As your dog gets used to the cage, you don't have to stay with him all the time, but you can get up and leave the room for a while. Then come back, sit next to the cage again, wait a few minutes and then exit again. Again, don't let him out if he cries.
Step 4. Gradually increase the time you spend out of sight
Repeat the procedure of caging and exiting several times a day, gradually increasing the amount of time you spend outside the room, before returning and reopening the cage. If the dog is complaining, it means that you have speeded up the times too much, so next time cut them down a bit.
- Remember to only release your pet when it is quiet to reward good behavior rather than teaching it that it gets what it wants by crying.
- Increase the time slowly and gradually before leaving it in the crate for about 30 minutes.
Method 5 of 6: Leave the Dog Alone
Step 1. Start leaving the house
When you see your furry friend starting to feel comfortable in the cage for 30 minutes, you can consider leaving him inside while you leave the house for short periods of time. Over time, you can leave it alone even for longer and longer periods. While there is no set of rules that define how long it is appropriate to leave a dog in the carrier, here are some general guidelines:
- 9-10 weeks: 30 to 60 minutes.
- 11-14 weeks: 1 to 3 hours.
- 15-16 weeks: 3 to 4 hours.
- 17 and more weeks: 4 hours.
- Keep in mind that, with the exception of the night, you should never leave it in the cage for more than 4 consecutive hours.
Step 2. Vary the times you put your pet in the cage
Have him enter at different times between 20 and 5 minutes before exiting. Simply put it inside using the usual method and give it a treat. So go out quietly when you are ready.
Step 3. Don't create any particular expectations when you leave or when you come back
Ignore the dog in the carrier for at least five minutes before leaving and walk away quietly. Upon your return, ignore him for a few minutes before taking him out of the cage (when he is quiet).
Step 4. Get the dog out immediately
In this way he can do his business; at the end, however, do not hesitate to praise him with great enthusiasm: this not only helps to reduce the accidents that can occur at home, but also allows to reinforce the idea that by doing his needs outside he gets praise.
Method 6 of 6: Using the Cage to Teach the Puppy to Go Needs Outside the Home
Step 1. Start training as soon as possible
Using the cage is very effective in teaching him to control his bowels and bladder. However, if you want to train him to go out for his needs using the crate, you should start the process right away as soon as you bring the new puppy home. This significantly reduces the amount of accidents that can occur in the home before the puppy becomes fully familiar with the cage.
Step 2. Begin to get used to the carrier (follow the steps already described above)
While you don't necessarily have to train him to feel comfortable being alone, you still need to make the cage feel like his home. This feeling alone will prevent the puppy from using the carrier as a toilet.
Step 3. Keep it in the crate when you are at home
When he starts to get really very comfortable with the cage, you can confine him there while in the room. Every 20 minutes or so, take him out to give him time to perform his bodily functions.
- If you see that he does not have to fulfill his needs, put him back in the cage. If, on the other hand, he does, reward him immediately with lots of praise, delights, affection, games and maybe even giving him the opportunity to roam freely around the house for a while.
- If you decide to let your puppy run around the house, take him out again after 20 minutes to avoid accidents.
Step 4. Keep a puppy diary
Even if it sounds silly to you, writing down the times she goes to the bathroom is actually extremely helpful. If you have a regular meal schedule, it will likely have a normal rhythm of physiological needs as well. When you get to know the time he actually needs to go to the bathroom, you can start taking him out at these times and avoid going out every 20-30 minutes. When the schedules become precise, you can let the puppy run around the house (as long as it is always under control) for most of the day.
Step 5. Continue praising your fur ball
Make sure you keep praising him a lot every time he goes to the bathroom outside. Eventually, he will understand that it is appropriate to go out to go to the bathroom and will start waiting for you to take him out to attend to his needs.
Step 6. Reduce the amount of time they are in the cage
When your puppy begins to understand that he needs to use the outdoor bathroom and not to litter in the house, you can begin to completely eliminate the use of the cage and simply take him out regularly.
Step 7. Clean up any incidents
Do not punish the puppy if he gets dirty in the house. Just clean using an ammonia-free spray and continue training. Continuously supervise your new wagging friend and give him plenty of opportunities to go out for his needs.
Advice
- If the dog complains when in the cage, ignore it (unless there is some real physical problem). Only let him out when he is calm, otherwise he will learn to associate whining with being released from the cage.
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If your dog gets dirty in your home, be sure to use an effective product to remove the stain and odor so your dog doesn't return to the same spot. Remember: just because you can't smell doesn't mean your dog can't smell it too!
Do not use ammonia-based products, as this substance smells the same as urine for dogs, so the pet may be encouraged to use that specific spot as their toilet
- Remember to take your four-legged friend out to do their own business shortly after eating. Most dogs need to evacuate within a short time after meals.
- Always give him a lot of praise and fill him with affection.
- When you bring your puppy home for the first time, don't put him in the cage right away, otherwise he may get scared. Try playing with him and bring him close to the pet carrier to let him smell and explore - eventually he will understand that he has no reason to be afraid of him when left inside.
- Play some soothing music or a quiet TV show when your dog is in the cage during the day.
- Never force him into the carrier.
Warnings
- Check the cage for any sharp edges or pieces of wire that can injure the dog. For some dogs with bulging eyes, such as Pekingese, there have been cases of eye damage caused by the sharp edges of the carriers.
- Do not leave the animal in the cage for more than a couple of hours at a time (unless it is night).
