Before laying a new lawn, take the time to prepare the ground so that the grass can grow as robust and healthy as possible. Install a sod (i.e., rolled) lawn if you want to use it right away. Alternatively, you can plant your garden grass seeds if you prefer to save money or take advantage of the experience of working a lawn "from scratch".
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Preparing the Ground
Step 1. Remove old plants with a hoe or machine
If there is old or weed grass, remove it before laying the new lawn. Use a garden hoe if the area is small. For larger lawns, or to save time and effort, rent a sod cutter from a building and gardening equipment service.
- It may be easier to remove grass when the soil is moist.
- If you use herbicide products, follow all safety instructions and wait long enough for the herbicide to break down in the soil. Most modern herbicides, if used correctly, will break down within three weeks.
Step 2. Level the soil
If the soil is flat, garden weed seeds grow more evenly, but the roots also take root better. Although it is possible to lay sod on inclined surfaces, it is still recommended to level the ground in flat areas. To help drain water away from homes and buildings, level the ground at a 1-2% slope away from buildings. In other words, the ground should drop 30-60cm over a 3m distance (or 1-2 meters every 100m distance).
While doing this, remove stones and other large items that could hinder root growth. Do not bury building debris or other materials not naturally present in the lawn, as you risk damaging the roots of the grass you are going to fix
Step 3. Enrich the soil (if necessary)
A lawn needs at least 10-15cm of high-quality soil in order to grow and stay healthy. If the soil has a sandy or clayey consistency, use a shovel to thoroughly work the organic material at this depth. You can use high-quality compost, manure, peat, or potting soil purchased from a garden supply and equipment store.
It is not enough to simply place the new material over the old. In this way, you risk creating several layers of soil that water or roots have difficulty penetrating
Step 4. Submit samples for soil testing (optional)
If you want detailed information on the soil, take soil samples and send them to an appropriate testing laboratory. After analyzing it, it will tell you if it is appropriate to add additional nutrients or elements to the lawn to change its pH.
- In the United States, the Cooperative Extension Service is the competent body for soil testing. It has several offices scattered throughout the territory, which offer services for conducting soil analyzes. In Italy, there are several laboratories that carry out sampling and chemical analysis of the soil. The Italian Association of Public Agrochemical Laboratories was also established, which associates laboratories that carry out analytical activities of significant interest in the agrochemical and / or agro-environmental field. However, much of the site is still under construction, so if you want to know which laboratories conduct chemical tests on soil samples near you, type in your favorite search engine keywords such as "soil chemical laboratory" and the name of your city.
- If you don't have access to a soil analysis laboratory, you can find some useful information for testing soil pH at home in this article. Most of the time a lawn's soil pH is around 6.5-7.
Step 5. Add a starter fertilizer
The so-called starter fertilizer has a high content of phosphorus, which promotes the growth of the roots of the new lawn. The presence of this element is easily identifiable by reading the central number on the package: usually, the wording "5-10-5" or "10-20-10" is found on starter fertilizers. Always use the amount recommended on the package, otherwise you risk being harmful to plants if you use it in abundant quantities. Do not introduce it deeply, but use a rake to spread it gently on the surface of the soil.
If you don't have starter fertilizer available, use a balanced fertilizer (for example, from "10-10-10")
Step 6. Water the soil and let it sit for a week
If you have had to add soil or level the area considerably, water the worked soil. For best results, let it sit for a week before implanting.
Step 7. Gently compact the soil
The grass will grow better if you remove the air pockets from the soil, being careful not to create a layer that is too hard and massive for the roots and allowing the water to penetrate easily. With a garden roller compact the surface of the soil, wetting it no more than 1/3.
Step 8. Decide which installation method you intend to use
You can purchase strips of grass that are already growing in the shape of a sod. They may take some effort when positions, but they will be usable right away after installation. Garden grass seeds are much cheaper, but it could take months to create a proper lawn and even a year or two for the surface to become even and pleasing. They are not recommended in areas with significant differences in height, as they risk slipping away when it rains. Keep reading the following sections according to your choice.
There are other less common methods of laying a lawn. The so-called "plugs" are small pieces of sod that are planted at intervals and then left for the grass to spread to the rest of the bare areas of the soil. The "sprigs", also called "stolons", are stalks of grass that grow along the ground. They can be treated as if they were seeds, but be careful that the largest nodes on the stems are under the ground and water regularly
Part 2 of 3: Lay the Clods to Give Life to the New Lawn
Step 1. Choose a sod variety
Turds, or rolls, are strips of grass already growing and attached to the ground. They come in many varieties, so choose the one that suits your climate and purpose. Warm season grass thrives during summer heat, while cold season grass prefers lower temperatures.
The varieties are described in more detail at the beginning of the section on seeds for garden grass. Often it is easier to choose the sod, because you can see and touch the grass before purchasing
Step 2. Purchase freshly cut sod
Turf grass doesn't live indefinitely, so buy freshly cut turf rolls. The soil in which they will be installed must be moist, not dry and crumbly.
Install the sod immediately. Clods are often sprayed with a light dose of liquid nitrogen just before they are cut. If left stacked on a pallet for too long, nitrogen can create heat that would kill the turf
Step 3. Spread the clods by staggering them
Lay a row of sod along the edge of the lawn, placing the end of one adjacent to the end of the other. Start the next row offset from the previous one, as if you were forming a line of bricks. Try not to pull the sod or overlap two pieces.
Step 4. Cut the sod with a utility knife or sharp scoop
If you need to fill a gap with dirt or remove one section overlapping another, cut a sod into smaller pieces with a utility knife or a sharp scoop. Make the necessary corrections until there are no holes or overlaps.
Step 5. Water generously during the first ten days
Give the lawn a good watering after you've laid it down. The water should seep into the turf until it reaches the ground below. When you lift a corner of sod after watering, it should be soaked with water. Water frequently during the first ten days, keeping the lawn moist.
- Whenever you can, water early in the morning to give the grass time to dry out before the fungi can settle.
- Do not water too much to saturate the soil and create puddles, as this will cause the root ball to rise and interfere with root growth.
Step 6. Reduce the frequency of watering
After the first ten days, water less frequently. Continue to give enough water for it to penetrate well into the soil and promote root growth. Check if the lawn edges are wilted and water more thoroughly in these spots if necessary.
Step 7. Avoid walking on the new lawn
Do not use the lawn during the first week or so and walk on it a little during the first month. After this period, it should take root, and, therefore, be used normally.
Step 8. Only mow the lawn when it has taken root
Let it grow to a height of at least 6.5 cm before cutting it. Do not mow when the sod is wet and soft, and make sure the mower blades are sharp. The use of manual lawnmowers is recommended until the clods have developed deep roots. The wait can take several weeks.
Part 3 of 3: Growing the Lawn from Seeds
Step 1. Select seeds based on climate
Most warm-season grass is dormant and turns brown in low temperatures, while cold-season grass will not stay green during the summer heat. Decide which type thrives best in your climate or consult an expert who takes care of each step of laying the lawn. For your choice, you can also refer to the time of year and temperatures.
- Cold-season grasses, such as bluegrass, ryegrass and fescue, should be sown in the fall when maximum soil temperatures are between 20 and 30 ° C.
- Warm-season grasses, such as bahia grass, centipede, gramignone and buffalo, are best sown in spring or summer, when the maximum soil temperature is between 20 and 35 ° C.
Step 2. Choose a particular type of seed
If you already have an idea of what your lawn will look like, try choosing just one grass species. Normally, lawn grass seeds are sold in varieties of a single species or in combinations of various species to offer better resistance to diseases and environmental factors. Take a look at the characteristics to understand which of these two types is best suited to the sun exposure your lawn enjoys, the texture you prefer, and which is more resistant to drought and tightness in relation to the passage of people. Avoid purchasing low-quality seed blends using the following tips:
- For best results, check that the germination rate is greater than 75% and that the expiration date is no more than ten months.
- Look for garden grass seeds containing less than 0.5% weed seeds.
- Avoid annual ryegrass, which dies in winter permanently. Avoid perennial ryegrass used in agricultural practices or mixes that contain more than 20% of any type of ryegrass, otherwise it will dominate the lawn with its texture and irregular appearance.
- Avoid seeds that are sold without the variety being specified.
Step 3. Work the lawn in sections
If the lawn is quite large, divide it into zones of approximately 6m x 6m. Work each section separately, following the steps below, before moving on to the next. This way, if necessary, you will distribute the work in multiple sessions, while ensuring that every portion of the lawn receives all the care it needs.
Step 4. Sow the grass
If you can, spread the seeds with a seed dispenser or spreader to ensure even coverage. Pour the seeds manually, if you have no other solutions, but always refer to the recommended sowing density on the package. For even distribution, plant half of the recommended seeds as you traverse the lawn lengthwise, then sow the remaining half as you walk horizontally. If no sowing density is indicated on the package, use the following indications:
- You can sow 15-20g per square meter of general purpose grass (designed for moderate to frequent use).
- Most "ornamental" grass (designed for light use) can be sown in 20-25g per square meter.
- High quality ornamental grass can be sown in 30g per square meter.
Step 5. Rake the soil lightly
Use a rake to cover most of the seeds with a light layer of soil, no thicker than 3mm. In this way, you will protect the seeds from birds and wind, but at the same time you will not hinder the birth of the tender grass sprouts from the ground.
For grass seeds planted in the summer, it can be helpful to spread a thin (6mm) layer of mulch to maintain moisture. Mulch made from straw or hay is not recommended, as it may contain weed seeds. Straw or hay mulch is not recommended, as it may contain weed seeds
Step 6. Don't step on the lawn as it grows
If necessary, install temporary signs or barriers so that people do not cross it. Do not walk on the ground until the grass has sprouted, which is 10-14 days usually. Cross it infrequently and as little as possible for about six months after planting.
Step 7. Water the seeds
Water the seeds immediately after sowing with a sprinkler and repeat this every day until sprouts appear. After that, water it less frequently, but more copiously. Once the grass has taken root, it will not come off the ground. Exactly how often you need to water your lawn will depend on the temperature, humidity and variety. Increase it if the grass darkens, unless it is in its dormant period (winter for warm-season weed, summer for cold-season weed).
If you are using a mix of Poa pratensis, make sure that watering follows a more frequent, but gentle, schedule after the first shoots appear. Over the next few days, carefully observe the growth of the new layer of shoots, as this species can take longer to germinate than others. After this second wave of sprouts appears, you can switch to a less frequent watering schedule
Step 8. Compact the lawn once the grass has reached a height of 5-7½cm
Once the grass reaches this height, compact it lightly with a garden roller - use an empty metal one or a plastic one filled with 4 liters of water. If you don't have a lawn roller, you can try pressing the grass lightly to the ground with the wheels of a lawnmower or stepping on it carefully, but try not to press so hard that the ground is hard and compact.
Step 9. Mow the lawn once the grass has reached 7½ to 10cm high
Do not mow the lawn until it reaches this height, as it will take time for the roots to grow. So once it is this height, cut it gradually, no more than 1.30 cm at a time, and wait at least a few days for the next mowing.
