Gun maintenance is an obvious procedure to anyone who owns one and is absolutely necessary for optimum safety and efficiency. Maintenance will allow you to inspect the gun and its components for damage or breakages. Without maintenance or low maintenance, your firearm will be less and less reliable. Unreliability could have dangerous consequences if, when using the firearm, there is a malfunction.
However, if done well and consistently, the entire cleaning procedure increases technical safety when handling the gun, which will help you in all situations.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: Unload the Gun Safely
Step 1. Hold the gun securely
Always keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction, treat the firearm as if it were loaded, and keep your fingers away from the trigger.
Step 2. Eject the magazine
Step 3. Empty the breech
- Pull the slide back and visually and physically (using your finger) check that there are no cartridges in the magazine mouth or in the breech.
- Make sure a second time that the gun is unloaded. You don't want a sudden burst as you take it apart.
Step 4. Make sure to remove all nearby ammo, possibly taking it to another room
Method 2 of 4: Disassemble the Gun
Step 1. Disassemble the gun safely
In modern weapons this is a fairly easy procedure. Disarm the dog (or let it snap), push the wings. After a push to the rear of the receiver, the slide should move free from the front of the gun.
- This actual procedure could vary greatly depending on the model of the gun being dismantled.
- Glock & Steyr Users: Make sure your firearm is unloaded several times, as you will need to pull the trigger to begin this procedure.
Step 2. Identify the parts to clean
There are 4 fundamental parts in a semiautomatic pistol (which could be connected in different ways).
- Carcass: it is the handle (the grip) of the pistol. Usually the trigger mechanism and the magazine mouth are located inside the receiver.
- Slide - the piece of metal on the weapon; it seals the breech, reduces the recoil (in many semiautomatic ones) and inside is the firing pin (and some other components). If you have a polymer carcass, then 70% of the weight is there.
- Barrel: which includes the barrel and the breech. Pay attention to the muzzle, the opening of the barrel, and the initial part (inside), because these are the most delicate parts that could compromise the functioning of the gun if damaged.
- The guide pin and recoil spring: often in one piece. The pin guides the slide during recoil and the spring pushes it back when you fire a shot.
Method 3 of 4: Clean the Gun
Step 1. Clean the components by wiping them with a cloth
- Remove as much of the accumulated and encrusted carbon as possible, created by friction and the use of dust. Also, clean the oil and any dust build-up.
- Clean the inside of the magazine thoroughly, the extractor, the guide rails and the area around the culotta. You will notice that the cloth has turned black in some places (clean these places well).
- There is no need for precision for this step; do it quickly.
Step 2. Apply solvent (preferably non-corrosive to the skin, such as M-Pro 7 solvent) where possible
- Many gun manufacturers design the components (even the polymer) in such a way that they can be used with solvents, but make sure it is a solvent recognized by the manufacturer.
- There is no need for a lot of solvent.
Step 3. Let the solvent work for a few minutes
Make sure the solvent is absorbed by carbon-soiled areas or where there are dust residues.
Step 4. Scrub the entire gun with a brush (that doesn't have metal bristles; use something like a toothbrush)
This serves to make the solvent more effective and to dissolve the residues accumulated on the gun. Try to do this in all the crevices and nooks and crannies.
Step 5. Clean the gun with a lint-free cloth (you can buy pre-cut fabric but an old cotton t-shirt or socks are fine too)
Pass it where you put the solvent (pretty much anywhere).
Step 6. Wipe the gun with the cloth (inside and out) again, see if there are any spots where the cloth has turned black and wipe them clean
Step 7. Use the spike to remove large buildup of carbon or dust in tight areas of the gun
The part where there is a lot of carbon accumulation is the breech. accumulations settle at the corners of the pieces of metal
Step 8. Use a pipe cleaner to remove buildup in the barrel
- Use the pipe cleaner at least 5 times along the barrel (even more if you have used the gun for a long time without cleaning it).
- Do not reverse the direction of the brush in the barrel. Instead, push it all the way through and all the way back (letting the bristles change direction "out" of the barrel).
Step 9. Run a solvent-soaked cloth over the barrel
Repeat with a clean cloth (always soaked in solvent) until it remains clean. After that, do it again with a cloth soaked in oil, which will protect the barrel from rust.
Step 10. Oil all components that need lubrication
Often the gun manual will indicate the specific areas to lubricate, but if you look closely at the worn areas, you will understand for yourself where to lubricate.
Step 11. After cleaning the gun, the next step is to properly lubricate it
Lubricating is important, perhaps more important than cleaning the gun. To avoid malfunctions, adequate lubrication is essential and prevents corrosion of metal parts. Many people use Rem oil, but there are more efficient options. When choosing a lubricant it is important to understand your goal. the main goal is to prevent corrosion and wear. Understanding what causes these factors helps you decide what to use to keep firearms in shape. Firearms produce great continuous force when firing. These forces can release a layer of oil between the mechanical parts which in contact can wear them. To prevent this, manufacturers add microscopic solids to the oil to create a "protective limit". Basically, it is more difficult to expel microscopic solids than liquids. The products known to create this limit protection are "anti-wear" or "extreme pressure" (AW / EP) additives, so try to find one, such as Lubrikit FMO 350-AW oil. This oil is excellent and penetrates tight spaces but is thick enough to stay where you apply it, promoting good boundary protection.
- A tip, when applying oil to a component, apply enough oil to cover the entire part and leave your mark after touching it with your finger.
- Apply the oil to all necessary components. Often the gun manual will indicate the specific areas to lubricate, but if you look closely at the worn areas, you will understand for yourself where to lubricate.
- Be sure to lubricate the areas around the rotating parts, such as the hammer base or trigger mechanism.
- Keep the oil away from the firing pin (the oil may accumulate dirt and dust, thus preventing the gun from firing).
Step 12. After lubricating the gun, you should apply a light grease to the sliding parts
The use of fat is much discussed online, but still being a new concept, a lot have not used it yet. Qualified gunsmiths recommend using it, especially on automatic pistol casing rails.
- Fat works best on the sliding parts, as these tend to use up the oil quickly. By scrolling back and forth, the oil is pushed out leaving the metal parts exposed. The grease is designed to stay in place on sliding parts, a good example is Lubriplate SFL-0 grease. The adhesion of the grease guarantees continuous protection, even after continuous use.
- Make sure the grease is good for the metals you apply it to. Aluminum or lithium based grease is best (chloride compounds are not good).
- Make sure the grease layer is not too thick to inhibit the action of the gun (normally NLGI # 0 is the best hardness). Also check the work hardening, resistance to acids / alkalis and water (especially water) and preferably choose a grease that does not stain (it would not be nice to find black stains on clothing).
- do not forget to use the grease in the guide rails and the grooves where these slide, carcass and carriage.
- Use a good anti-wear and anti-corrosion oil for general applications and a light aluminum grease for the sliding parts of your fire cabinet, and you will be comfortable for ages.
Method 4 of 4: Reassemble the Gun
Step 1. Reassemble the gun and make sure everything is working fine
- A quick test is to pull the trolley; make sure it comes back into place (forward). If it does not return, the recoil spring may not be installed correctly.
- Make sure the gun is unloaded (see above) and pull the trigger, you will hear a click. Pull the slide again or, if the pistol is double action, cock the trigger again.
Step 2. Clean the gun with a cloth and remove excess grease
Step 3. Clean the slide with a dry cloth before firing to remove any oil residue
Advice
- When in doubt, ask a certified gunsmith with many years of experience.
- If you want to clean the barrel thoroughly, before using the oil-soaked cloth, apply a cloth (or two) soaked in solvent copper (other than regular solvent) through the hole. This is to remove residual particles from the shell of the bullets.
- If you use lead bullets, you may need to soak the barrel in solvent (if you haven't cleaned it for a long time). Dip it in a solvent that is not corrosive to the skin or use plugs to seal the ends of the barrel after filling it with solvent.
- A light (almost invisible) layer of oil on the outside of the metal parts will prevent rust formation by preventing moisture saturation.
- Some cotton swabs and / or compressed air can be used to remove the solvent from tight areas.
- When you push the brush into the barrel, push it back and turn it (slowly turning it) to 45 degrees, push it through the barrel again and twist it in the opposite direction. This will help clean the grooves better.
Warnings
- Keep the oil away from the firing pin (the oil may accumulate dirt and dust, thus preventing the gun from firing).
- Keep oil and solvent away from ammo. Oil may seep into the cartridge case which will prevent it from being fired. Sometimes, however, the solvent causes the firing of a bullet.
- Always clean the gun in a ventilated area, as breathing in oils or solvents is bad for your health.
- Make sure the solvent is suitable for your gun and preferably non-corrosive to the skin.
- Wash your hands after handling the gun and cleaning products.
- Never use electric tools to speed up the cleaning process, unless you are the owner of a licensed gun shop.
