You don't need to take your photo or print to a framer to dry mount it. If you know how to use a ruler and know some arithmetic, you can dry mount the print yourself and save a lot. The result will be a well-fitted print and a full wallet!
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Prepare the Materials
Step 1. Choose a type of iron-on paper for dry mounting
Today there are different types and brands, which can be purchased in pre-cut sheets or in rolls, depending on the desired size. First you have to consider if it is acid-free and if it meets the international archival standard. Usually, the glue can form bubbles and damage the print, but for a little more you can buy a type of iron-on paper that will not risk ruining the print over time. Most glues are permanent, although there are removable ones.
- Fotoflat is a type of thermo-adhesive paper that can be removed with a little heat even after application. There is a risk, however, that it will lose adhesion and detach from the support if exposed to the sun or heat sources.
- MT5 is a type of thermo-adhesive paper that requires high temperatures to be activated and adhere to the print. The downside is that the temperature required for activation could damage or burn the print.
- Colormount is a permanent thermo-adhesive paper made specifically for resin-coated papers, but it requires a lot of precision to heat it to the right temperature: if it is too high, the glue will form bubbles, but if it is too low it will not activate.
- Fusion 4000 is a permanent dry-mount iron-on paper, often considered superior to others, but when it melts it can become too liquid and transfer to the print, or the print may shift.
Step 2. Choose a media
It is possible to mount a print using virtually any type of media, but there are some that have been created for you. Since dry mounting is permanent (or at least it is in most cases) it is important to choose the media well according to your taste. Visit a nearby stationery or home improvement store to see what's available, or make a stand yourself using thin sheets of wood or plastic.
- If you intend to leave the edges of the media as a frame, make sure you like the color before mounting the print.
- Some iron-on dry-mount sheets can be purchased in packs that also include the backing.
Step 3. Trim the print to the right size if needed
Decide whether to cut the print and media to the same size, or to keep the media wider than the print so that the edges remain visible around the print itself. Either way, if your print has some extra paper to get rid of, do it now.
Step 4. Cut the iron-on sheet or roll to the right size
The sheet to be cut must have the same measurements as the print, or it must be slightly smaller. To take your measurements, place the print on top and mark the outline with a pencil.
If you prefer to cut the iron-on sheet a little smaller than the print so as to be sure that once heated the glue does not come out on the sides, remove about 3-4 mm per side
Step 5. Get an iron
The traditional method involves the use of a press, but it is a very expensive tool and not that easy to use. In order not to spend a fortune, an iron can be fine. Use one without steam, or with the ability to eliminate steam (moisture will ruin the print and not make the glue work well).
- It is advisable to keep an iron aside to be used only for this use: the iron you normally use to iron your clothes could have the plate scratched or stained and consequently would ruin the print.
- Instead of buying a new iron, look for one at a thrift store - you'll spend a lot less. The important thing is to check that the plate is clean and scratch-free.
Part 2 of 2: Mount the Print
Step 1. Heat the iron
Consult the instructions of the thermo-adhesive paper chosen to find out what is the required temperature for the activation of the glue. It is generally between about 70 and 90 degrees. Turn on the iron and let it warm up while you prepare the print for assembly.
Step 2. Align the print, the iron-on sheet, and the backing
Arrange the print on top of the iron-on sheet and backing so that everything lines up nicely. Make sure the iron-on sheet does not come off the sides of the print, otherwise the glue could damage the print by melting.
Step 3. Hold the print firmly to the media using tape
You will need to start heating from the center of the print, then attach strips of masking tape (the removable type used when dyeing) to the sides of the print. Make sure that the print, the iron-on sheet and the support are firm and stable because once the glue is activated you will no longer be able to move them.
Step 4. Cover the print with a sheet of blotting paper
Although in theory the print should resist heat without being damaged, it is best to avoid placing the iron plate directly on it with the risk of creating burns or bubbles. Cover the print (already attached to the substrate with adhesive tape) with a sheet of absorbent paper to protect it to prevent damage.
Step 5. Place the iron over the center of the print
The heat from the soleplate will cause the three layers to stick together, holding them in place for the rest of the procedure. Leave the iron over the center of the print (without moving it) for 3-5 minutes. When the print is firmly attached to the media, proceed to the next steps.
Step 6. Also iron the edges of the print to the substrate
Follow the same procedure as above: move the iron over each of the four corners and edges of the print holding it steady each time for 3-5 minutes to heat the iron-on sheet well. Moving the iron up and down has the consequence of lengthening the glue activation process, so just check that the paper does not get too hot, without moving the iron.
- Whenever you are ready to move the iron to another position, first move it to the center of the press and then slide it to the desired position. This will remove any bubbles created by the iron-on sheet under the print.
- Remove the adhesive tape on the sides of the print when it is time to adhere them to the substrate using the iron. Be very careful that the print does not lift from the backing as you remove the tape.
Step 7. Finish the job
When the print has fully adhered to the substrate, the job is complete. Let it cool for a few minutes and then remove the paper towels. At this point you are really done! All that remains is to complete the work with a frame.
Advice
It is possible to purchase pre-cut assembly kits with standard size supports, various colors and ornamental motifs; using one has the advantage of being able to buy a standard size frame instead of having to manufacture one ad hoc
Warnings
- Be careful not to lift the iron when moving it from the center of the print towards the corners: you would leave points of the print unglued from the support causing the formation of air bubbles which would then be impossible to eliminate.
- Water leaking from the iron during the process could damage the print and substrate.
