Making a brace can be a difficult and time-consuming task, but there are ways to simplify the process enough to make it feasible even for a beginner. Read on to learn more.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Part One: Preparation
Step 1. Find or make a template
For starters, finding a corset pattern online or in a pattern catalog is more advisable than trying to make your own. A good model will be adjustable for your size and should give perfectly satisfying results.
- Remember that a simple basic corset pattern will certainly be better for a beginner than a complex one. Corsets can be difficult to make, so don't get too complicated the first few times.
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You can find corset patterns for free and for sale, but the best types usually end up in the latter category. Some sources worth checking out include:
- https://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=27&cat=3&page=1
- https://www.corsettraining.net/corset-patterns
- Alternatively, you can also make a personal pattern for your corset, but the process involves exactly representing your measurements on graph paper.
Step 2. Determine your size
A good model offers multiple sizes, usually from S to XXXL. Find your size by measuring your chest, waist and hips.
- Measure your chest at its widest point with a tape measure, wearing an unpadded bra to get the exact fit.
- Find your waist measurement by measuring with the tape measure around the thinnest part of your waist, approximately 5cm above the navel.
- You can find your hip measurement by measuring around the widest part of your hips with a tape measure. The exact point should be approximately 20 cm below the waist measurement.
Step 3. Prepare the fabric
Check that the fabric for the corset is in good condition. If necessary, dye it and shrink the texture.
- You can shrink the texture of the fabric by lightly steaming it with an iron.
- Check the grain. The textures should be perpendicular. Tighten and secure them by pulling the fabric on the diagonal thread in both directions. This will help the textures align. Iron along the grain direction and perpendicular to the grain to fully arrange the textures.
Step 4. Pin the pattern to the fabric
Place the pattern on the fabric with the grain following the direction of the widest part of the pattern. You should avoid excessive widths around the bust. Pin the pattern to the fabric.
You can also use paperweights. If you use this method, draw the outlines with chalk before cutting
Step 5. Cut the pieces
Make sure you cut the pieces according to the pattern's instructions. Even a small difference can have a huge impact on the final result.
- Cut the inner center pieces twice, at the fold and without bleed for the back seam.
- Cut the outer center pieces once, at the fold and without bleed for the front seam.
- Cut all other pieces twice.
Step 6. Create the channels for the battens
Use your sewing machine to sew a series of evenly spaced lines along the back piece of fabric. These lines will serve as channels for the battens, for the buttonholes and for the finishing of the battens.
- Keep the lines as straight as possible.
- Create channels wide enough for the thickness of the steel slats.
Part 2 of 5: Part Two: Seams
Step 1. Pin the pieces together
Assemble all the pieces as directed by your model's instructions. Pin the pieces together to prevent them from shifting as you sew.
- You can also baste them lightly to get the same result.
- If the seams meet, and match properly, you may be able to match the ends and drive the machine as you sew without pins or tack.
- Make sure the seams are on the inside of the fabric.
Step 2. Sew the pieces together
Use the sewing machine to sew the pieces together in a straight line.
- The contours of the fabric should be facing out, with the inner sides facing in the same direction. The seam bleeds will be covered by the boning channels on the outside of the corset.
- Do not sew the last back panel in the center yet.
Step 3. Open the folds of each seam
Once all the seams are finished, you should open the folds and press them against the fabric. They should be flat when finished.
- Trim excess fabric if necessary to avoid buildup.
- Remember that you can also squeeze the seams, opening them, as you make them.
Step 4. Sew the torso tape in place
Stretch the sling along the tightest line of the corset. Baste it on the front and back, as well as on every seam.
The length of the webbing should be determined by taking your bust size, adding 5cm and dividing by two. You will need to cut two lengths of tape or ribbon for this measurement, one for the front and one for the back
Step 5. Sew the final center piece
Sew the missing center piece in a straight line, catching the ribbon in the middle of the fabric as you sew the stitches together.
- Once finished, squeeze the seams by opening them and removing the excess as before.
- It may be a good idea to check the length of the bust before cutting the abundance of the seam.
Part 3 of 5: Part Three: Exterior Cladding
Step 1. Cut strips of tape
Cut strips of bias tape, meaning that they will go diagonally to the weave direction and onto the fabric as you cut. Cut others following the grain or parallel to the edge of the fabric.
- The cross strips create the lining for the curved lines. The strips following the weft become the vertical cladding that will hold the steel slats.
- Each strip should be about twice the size of the splints you intend to use and will be as high as the corset. Usually, the strips should be about 2.5cm wide.
- The number of liners should match the number of battens you intend to use.
Step 2. Squeeze the strips sideways
Use a crosswise press to turn the strips into slat containers. After that, the strips should have perfectly straight edges.
If you don't have a crosswise press, fold and squeeze the strips so that the long edges meet in the center of the strip. The containers thus obtained should be about 0.95 cm wide
Step 3. Sew decorative cross strips first
Any crossbeam you intend to use for decorative purposes should be placed on the front and sewn along the contours.
- These linings will fold, usually stretching from front to center, just below the bust, towards the lower sides of the front.
- However, these coatings are not necessary.
Step 4. Sew the vertical linings
Pin the linings along the front of the corset. Sew them to the contours and once again in the center.
The liners should only line up on the front of the corset. You might need one for the vertical center and three for each side. The number will change according to the width of the battens. If you use wider sticks you won't need many, while for thin sticks you will need more
Part 4 of 5: Part Four: Edges, Sticks, and Buttonholes
Step 1. Snap the edges in place
If you are using faux or genuine leather, you will not be able to pin it. Rather, you should place hydrophilic clear sewing adhesive along the bottom exterior of one of the rear center panels. Attach the hem to the adhesive, fold it over the edge and also pin it on the inside.
- You can also use satin, cotton or any other type of pre-made crosspiece. The choice is yours, but remember that each fabric will give the corset a different look.
- Attach the rest of the transverse edge in place using the same technique.
Step 2. Sew the edge
Use your sewing machine to make the stitches in a straight line and secure the edge in place.
For now you should only add the border to the bottom of the corset. You need to add the battens before you can close the top edge
Step 3. Cut the battens
Use tongs to cut the metal strips to the correct length. Fold the sticks back and forth to break them apart.
Find the right length by spreading the splint over the channel sewn into your corset. Measure it so that it is as long as the entire channel, minus the bleed for the seam
Step 4. Attach a hood to each cue
Use pliers to pinch each cap onto the tip of each splint until it settles.
If you have trouble covering the battens with caps, you can use hot glue or putty that adheres to both metal and fabric
Step 5. Insert the battens
Thread the splints into the channels of the corset.
Secure the edge with a seam to keep the battens from coming out. Do not sew on metal, as it may break the machine needle
Step 6. Hem the top edge
Use the same method with adhesive and stitching applied to the bottom edge of the corset to hem the top as well, with another crosspiece of the same type.
Step 7. Insert the eyelets
Space the eyelets about 2.5 cm apart from each other along both sides of the corset. At the waist, space out four pairs of eyelets closest to each other about half an inch apart.
- Use a fabric or leather hole punch, or awl to punch holes for buttonholes.
- Secure the eyelets with a rubber mallet on both sides.
Part 5 of 5: Part Five: Final Touches
Step 1. Insert the laces
Start from the top towards the waist using a crisscross weave. Work bottom up in the same way, always stopping at the waist. Tie the laces together in "rabbit ears" or "sneaker" style.
- You will need approximately 4.5m of lace in total.
- Ribbon and twill are the most accurate forms of lacing, but flat or rope shoelaces are more durable in the long run.
Step 2. Put on the corset
The top should rest just above the breasts and the bottom should extend to the hips without rising.
