There are many problems and solutions for bike brakes. This article will try to cover common problems with drum brake systems, and will briefly mention counter pedal brake systems.
Steps
Part 1 of 6: Checking the Drums
Step 1. Check the brake pads
The first thing you need to check is if the brake pads are too worn to function effectively. You should see at least an inch of rubber (pad) between the caliper and the wheel when you operate the drum to brake the bike. If the pads are worn, you will need to replace them.
Step 2. Check the cables
Squeeze the brake and make sure the cable moves. If it doesn't, your cable may be stuck inside the casing, or the clamp in the handlebar may be loose.
Step 3. Make sure the drum moves when the cable pulls it
Squeeze the brake and check if the drum opens and closes, or have another person do it while you check. If the brake cable moves, but the drum does not, the cable may be broken inside the jacket and you will need to replace the entire section of the cable.
Step 4. Check if both sides of the drum are gripping the wheel
If one side is blocked, the wheel may only be braked by one pad, not ensuring effective braking. You may need to loosen the screws that hold the drum on the bike, and move it back and forth to unlock it. You can use light engine oil to lubricate these moving parts.
Part 2 of 6: Replace the Brake Pads
Step 1. Purchase new pads
If you know the make and model of your bike, you can visit a cycling shop that can provide you with the right pads for your bike. There are "universal" pads, but they will generally only fit inexpensive bikes.
Step 2. Remove the pad screws and remove them from the drum
On most bicycles, you can do this without taking the drum apart. If you need to disassemble the drum for more room to maneuver, remove the bolt in the top center of the drum, slide the mechanism out, and put the bolt back in its position to prevent disassembly of the mechanism. This will keep the washers, spacers and drum arms in the correct position.
Step 3. Install the new pads, being careful to line up the surface with the rubber
To prevent the pads from screeching, tilt them slightly, so that it comes into contact with the wheel first on the inclined side. Make sure the pad height is level with the center of the wheel's metal rim. Pads mounted too low can slip out of the rim, causing a dangerous situation, or if they are mounted too high, they will rub against the side of the tire.
Part 3 of 6: Repair the Cables
Step 1. Lubricate the drum pivot
Step 2. Check the adjustment of the brake cables
When the brakes are not applied, they should be about an inch from the wheel rim, and when you apply them, they should make contact with the wheel in the middle of the brake lever free play.
Step 3. Lubricate the cables
You can use a lubricant that can be sprayed to apply the oil inside the cable liner where the liner begins near the brake lever. It is recommended to use a light engine oil or a specific oil for brake cables. Some products, such as WD-40, may wash away the factory lubricant, and when they evaporate the cables will be left without lubrication.
Step 4. Only remove the cable from the jacket if it is very stiff or difficult to lubricate
You can do this by removing the caliper on the drum side or the brake caliper side, and sliding it to the other end. If you remove the cable, use a spray solvent to clean debris and dirt from the cable tube. Apply a thin coating of lithium grease or motor oil to the cable, and reinstall it if it is not damaged.
Step 5. Connect the free part of the cable to the caliper you removed it from earlier, and check the brake caliper free play
When the pads are about an inch from the wheel when the brake lever is not tight, squeeze the caliper.
Step 6. Replace the cable or the entire section of the cable if you were unable to troubleshoot the cable with the previous steps
Buy a cable of the same diameter, good quality, and the same length as the original. Remember that replacing the cable yourself is not easy.
Part 4 of 6: Repairing the Brake Levers
Step 1. Check the cable clamps under the brake levers to make sure they are secure
Step 2. Lubricate the lever pin
Part 5 of 6: Repairing the Drums
Step 1. Make sure the drums are centered on the wheel
Step 2. Make sure the springs have the same tension on each drum arm
When you squeeze the brake lever, each side of the drum should advance equally towards the wheel. If one side moves more than the other, you will need to check if the arms move freely and are well lubricated. Tighten the springs on the side that moves the most by bending them with pliers, being careful not to break them.
Part 6 of 6: Backpedal brakes
Step 1. Rotate the pedals in reverse if your bicycle is equipped with counter pedal brakes
The pedal should only move a quarter turn and the brake should engage. The braking action takes place on the rear wheel and maintenance of this type of brakes is not recommended for a beginner.
Step 2. Check the brake arm
On "Bendix" type coaster brakes, the brake arm is a flat steel "arm" attached to the rear axle, on the opposite side of the chain, hooked to the lower part of the frame. Check to see if the attachment point has loosened, allowing the arm to rotate. If the arm has come off, hang it up.
Advice
- Don't buy smaller brake pads.
- If you are not sure which procedure to use to remove and refit the brake pads, let a professional do it.
- An incorrectly mounted wheel will often rub against the brakes. Your problem may not be the brakes!
- Be careful not to drop oily substances on new pads: if this happens they will lose their braking action and will need to be replaced again.
Warnings
- Make sure the pads are securely engaged to ensure maximum braking efficiency.
- Go slowly to test the brakes!
