Any landlord wants their home to be as safe and secure as possible. Everything starts from the roof. Although roofing materials generally have a life cycle of 20-30 years, roofs sooner or later deteriorate and a professional repair can cost several thousand dollars. Thankfully, with the right materials, design, precautions and the right elbow grease, any homeowner can replace their roof safely and economically. Read the following tips for more information.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Get the job started
Step 1. Learn the local building construction laws
Many codes in this regard regulate the number of tiles that can be installed on a roof, as well as the materials in order for the roof.
Coastal areas prone to strong winds and hurricanes have different requirements for loads and structural designs than inland areas. If you live on the coast and want to build the roof of your house, you will need to pay more attention to the necessary permits to ensure the safety of the project
Step 2. Obtain all necessary permissions
Check with local government agencies if there is a need to obtain building permits before replacing the roof. Permits are usually provided by your town hall's construction department. In general, they will be able to approve your project if you provide:
- A certificate attesting to the ownership of the building
- A permit application document (provided)
- A repair statement, stating that you will replace the roof to be removed to comply with construction laws
- A drawing of the building
- A drawing of the building heights
Step 3. Choose an appropriate type of shingle
Shingles come in many varieties, some of which are more appropriate for particular climates and roof styles. Choose something that suits your area, your home and your personal style.
- The asphalted shingles they are the most common type of roof shingles. They are quite durable, and can last for 20 to 30 years under the right conditions. Reinforced with glass fibers, asphalt shingles often have a layer of coating substance or tar glued on top of them.
- The slate tiles they are the heaviest and most durable tiles you can find. Since they can break easily, you need a special tool to cut them. The shingles are three times heavier than traditional ones. Using slate is recommended if you are an experienced roof installer and are looking for a challenge. Slate shingles are perfect if you want to create a unique and durable roof for your home and you want to work hard.
- The laminated tiles they look like slate tiles, but are layered like asphalt shingles. They are similar, but somewhat thicker than asphalt ones, so working with them will be a fairly similar activity. If you like the look of slate but want the job to be a little easier, consider this type of shingle.
- The wooden roof tiles they are cedar, fir or pine tiles, often broken by hand. Common in the coastal regions of New England, wood shingles expand and acquire that naturally worn look that many like. They need to be spaced slightly differently to allow for expansion, but if installed correctly they usually last up to 30 years.
Step 4. Calculate how many shingles you will need for the job
The area that the tiles cover is defined as a square of 9.29 square meters. However, shingles are typically sold in piles, with three piles usually covering a square.
To figure out how many shingles to buy, measure the length and width of each section of the roof and multiply them together to calculate the area. Add the areas of each section, then divide by 100 to calculate how many squares the roof is made of. Multiply this number by 3 to find the number of stacks you will need
Step 5. Measure the length of a newly installed tile on the roof
This will help you determine how the shingles will be installed across the width of the roof. Many asphalt shingles are 91.4 cm long. If the width of the roof is not a multiple of the length of the shingle, you will have a small piece of shingle protruding at the end of each row.
The row of tiles on the bottom must expose beyond the edge of the roof. If you are using wooden shingles, you will need to cut the ones that will go to the edges to create a straight line and align everything
Part 2 of 4: Prepare the Roof
Step 1. Take the right safety precautions
Many roofs are particularly high and require roof connectors to make work safer. Scaffolding and walkways will help secure the area on and around the roof to prevent tools and equipment from slipping off the roof and hitting passers-by.
Prepare 20 connectors 90 cm from the edge of the roof. Work glasses and gloves are also useful
Step 2. Rent a waste container
It will be convenient for you to rent a large waste container in which to throw the old tiles. You can usually find it close to home, at a cost of around 150 Euros. If you leave it as close to your home as possible and cover the air conditioner units, porches and all the things you don't want dented or smeared from roof nails and other debris, you can remove the container later. at the time of cleaning.
Step 3. Begin removing the shingles from the furthest peak of the waste container
Use a garden pitchfork or special shovel designed specifically for roofs to work under the shingles and remove them faster, or work by hand and use a hammer. Lift the nails, first loosening the siding, then the tiles, and finally removing the tiles themselves with the shovel in the direction of the roof supports. Take plenty of breaks to unload the tiles in the trash. Don't worry about collecting all the nails right away. Some will come away with the tiles, some will not.
- It's usually the hardest and dirtiest part of the job, so make sure you've thought about the time and effort it takes to get it done. The shingles are often heavy and dirty so don't stack them too much before removing them, placing them on the supports and then throwing them away.
- Be very careful with your feet and make sure you work in pairs. Invest some money in purchasing a safety harness if your roof is very high.
Step 4. Remove the metal cladding around the chimneys, vents, folds in the roof
Some roofing installers reuse coatings if they are in good condition. In that case you will have to lift and remove the nails very carefully. Coverings on the folds of the roof are almost always thrown away, so choose wisely whether to keep them or not. Consider replacing all the upholstery in the middle of the job. If it appears to be in poor condition, remove it and install new upholstery.
Step 5. Clean the roof
Sweep the roof to make it as clean as possible, taking the time to remove any remaining nails that haven't been removed with the shingles. Reattach the loose trim boards. Examine the lining for any damaged boards, replacing any parts that are not in good condition.
Step 6. Install a water and ice cover and asphalt sheeting sheet
This waterproof layer serves as a temporary barrier against any adverse weather conditions. If you have gutters, completely coat them with the same protective layer. Pin it every 12 inches to keep it in place. Once the whole section is fixed along the marked line, lift the bottom part, remove the back layer and let it fall back into place. The protection will immediately glue to the roof.
Unroll all the liner you need along the roof, using the tacks to secure it properly so you can walk on it and to prevent it from being blown away. In this case a hammer stapler (costing about 20 Euros) would be very useful
Step 7. Complete the "weather" protection of the roof with the asphalt sheet
Use round metal discs about 5 cm below the nails to secure the sheet and prevent it from flying away if wind comes before installing the tiles.
Keep the sheet well aligned by marking a chalk line on the roof boards and measuring from the bottom to the front. Do not use the bottom of the roof as a reference line. This will ruin the paper, leaving you with ripples in the material. It causes the layer to extend by a measure ranging from 6.5 mm to 1 cm from the bottom edge of the roof
Part 3 of 4: Install the new roof
Step 1. Mount the drip tray around the perimeter of the roof
Use the special nails, spaced 30 cm from each other, extended to a distance between 6, 5 mm and 1 cm beyond the edge of the roof, beyond the protective sheet.
Step 2. Place the siding in the folds of the roof, formed by two sections
Nail them like you did with the drip tray. The coverings are prefabricated, fold or flatten them and cut them if necessary.
Some installers reuse coatings in good condition. Those in the folds of the roof are usually worn out. You judge if they are in good condition. Generally, they need to be replaced
Step 3. Mark a series of chalk lines, 15cm apart
Use chalk to keep the tiles aligned.
Step 4. Install the starting line of shingles
Follow the chalk lines, nailing the tiles at 15cm intervals. Space each nail 7 cm from the top edge of the tile. Depending on the type of shingles purchased, there will be a special row of starting shingles or a roll of ribbon material to be cut along the length of the roof.
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If using shingles with tabs, drive the nails 1.8 cm past the cuts, where the tabs meet the top of the shingle. Also plant a 2.5 cm nail on each end of the tile, in line with the other two. In total, you will use 4 nails for each tab with tabs to secure it.
Reroof Your House Step 17
Step 5. Install the first row
Draw a horizontal chalk line along the starting row as a guide, and remove the plastic strips on the back of the tiles in the package. Cut 20 cm from the length of the first line of nailed shingles, then use the rest to the full size. Changing them in this way will allow you to join the first regular row of shingles installed with the other starting shingles.
Alternatively, you can use an initial row of standard size shingles, turning them with the tabs up
Step 6. Install the second row of tiles
Prepare the first tile of the second rear row halfway (17 cm) from the edge of the first tile in the first row so that the bottom of the flap touches the top of the slot in the bottom tile. The half tile must be cut at the point where it slopes from the left edge of the slope.
Continue installing the shingles in the same basic way, breaking up shingles to fit into the spaces left at the end of each row. Leave some space around the vents, chimneys and cladding to have time to dedicate to these areas
Step 7. Install the shingles around the vents and chimneys
Cut a square of liner that extends 15 cm from the pipe, with a hole in the center large enough for the pipe to fit snugly. Install the shingles on the siding, using the adhesive to secure them, and cut a special shingle that goes beyond the pipe to complete the job.
- The "boot" of the breather tube (a real lining) is made in such a way that it can slide on the tube, thus offering additional protection. A rubber gasket allows it to fit snugly and ensures leak protection.
- To install the tiles around the chimney, cut a few strips of cladding to be folded and create a joint between the outer edge of the chimney wall and the roof. Install them as normal and continue installing the tiles up to the edge of the roof. Use the roof adhesive and install the shingles on the siding as normal.
Step 8. Install the right shingles for the ridge of the roof
Use adhesive roofing cement on each nail, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Ridge or facing shingles are used to connect the two sides of the roof, concluding the peak installation with a uniform appearance.
If prefabricated roofs are the best, it is still possible to form ridge tiles starting from a normal tile. Cut them to size and shape them on the peak of the wood, installing them normally
Step 9. Finish the job
Installing a roof will cause a lot of mess, so it's important to have time to clean properly afterwards. Nails, unused pieces of shingle, and other debris will likely be littered in the garden and surround the home. All of these pieces can be dangerous if left lying around.
Some installers use rotating magnets (metal detector-like tools) to collect nails by sliding them. Sometimes you can rent one of these tools from special suppliers, or maybe borrow it for a couple of hours to avoid forgetting a dangerous nail lying around
Part 4 of 4: Do maintenance on your roof
Step 1. Do a thorough inspection of the roof at least once a year
If you've gone to great lengths to properly install a new roof on your home, write it down in a regular inspection to make sure it meets the requirements. Wait for a nice day to come to inspect it and do a further check after a period of rain to check for any leaks and other issues. Especially in areas that are very ventilated and subject to bad weather conditions, it is essential for any owner to take out the ladder and check the roof of the house thoroughly.
Step 2. Look for any openings or rust in the upholstery
Metal is particularly subject to these phenomena. Examine any exposed coating for signs of such damage and reseal all affected areas.
Step 3. Look for any curled shingles
Properly installed shingles should remain relatively level throughout their life cycle, but can begin to swell and curl at the ends as they begin to wear out. It won't be a problem for the first few years if all are installed correctly. It is a good idea to re-fasten any shingles that appear to be loose.
Hammer any loose nails, or pull them off and use roofing nails to secure the shingles. Save the adhesive to repair any damage later and stake a bit around where needed. Seal any lining that appears to stand up
Step 4. Uproot all the moss on the roof
Mosses and lichens are a scourge on roofs. They hide moisture and can significantly shorten the life cycle of the tiles. Remove dead moss with a broom and consider purchasing and applying a moss poison (they cost around 20 Euros).
For a natural alternative, sprinkle the roof with baking soda. Some moss poisons have copper or zinc oxide, which are harmful to groundwater and animals. Spreading baking soda on areas prone to moss will help keep their growth at bay
Step 5. Look for any asphalt granules in the gutters
As the shingles begin to wear out, you will begin to see small protective beads that fall off the shingles themselves in the rain and end up in the gutters. It is a sign that the shingles are near the end of their life cycle and need to be replaced as soon as possible, that they can no longer withstand the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Start planning the installation of a new roof.
Step 6. Check for early signs of leakage
In the house, take a look and look for any signs of leaks. It is best to find them as soon as possible before they become a more serious structural problem. If you find a leak, have a professional do an assessment and determine what needs to be fixed. Search for:
- Paint peeling under the protrusions
- Moisture or dark areas on the ceiling or around fireplaces
- Water stains around any blowhole
Advice
- Keep tarpaulins handy in case of a sudden change in weather conditions before installing the roof. Legal firmly.
- Use a strong magnet (or rent one) to make sure you don't leave nails in the grass. These lost nails can end up puncturing a tire or injuring someone while using the lawnmower.
Warnings
- Secure the ladder securely to prevent it from moving while holding a load.
- Be honest with yourself. If you are not in good physical condition, do not go to work. Reinstalling a roof is a physically demanding operation, which causes strain on the back, legs and muscles.
