How to Sew a T-Shirt (with Pictures)

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

If you know how to use a sewing machine, you can make your own T-shirts. If you've never done this before, it's best to start with a simple t-shirt. Before you get to work, get a paper pattern or design your own.

Steps

Part 1 of 4: Creating the Perfect Pattern

Step 1. Get a shirt that fits you well

The easiest way to design your pattern is to copy the shape of an existing shirt that fits perfectly.

Although this tutorial is only about designing and making a simple short-sleeved shirt, you can use the same basic steps for making patterns for other styles of blouses

Step 2. Fold the t-shirt in half

Fold the shirt vertically in half, leaving the front out. Spread it folded on a large sheet of paper.

The ideal would be to put the paper on top of the cardboard before placing the shirt on it. The cardboard will make the surface stiff enough to draw on it. You will also need to stick pins into the paper, which will be easier to do with a cardboard backing

Step 3. Pin the back profile

Pin the perimeter of the shirt, paying particular attention to the seam of the neck at the back, under the collar, and that of the sleeves.

There is no need for perfect precision pinning on the shoulder, hip and hem seams, because the aim is just to fix the shirt on the paper.
On the sleeves, put the pins right on the seam. Do not leave more than 2-3 cm between each pin.
On the neck seam on the back, pin the seam connecting the neckline to its hem. Leave a 2-3 cm gap between the pins.

Step 4. Draw the outline

With a pencil lightly trace the entire outline of the shirt.

Trace along the shoulders, hips and hem of the stapled shirt.
After drawing the outline, remove the shirt and look for the holes left by the pins in the seams of the sleeves and neck. Mark the holes to complete the outline of the back pattern.

Step 5. Pin the profile of the front

Move the folded shirt to a new sheet of paper, pinning the outline of the front instead.

Follow the same procedure used for the back to pin the perimeter and sleeves to the front of the t-shirt.
The neckline at the front is usually deeper than at the back. To mark it, place the pins under the front of the neckline, just below the hem. Leave 2-3 cm between each pin.

Step 6. Draw the outline

Draw the outline of the front as you did for the back.

Mark the shoulders, hips and hem lightly with the pencil while the shirt is pinned to the paper.
Remove the shirt and highlight the neck and sleeve marks to complete the design on the front.

Step 7. Pin and draw the sleeve

Open the shirt. Flatten a sleeve well and pin it on a clean sheet. Trace the outline.

Insert the pins through the seam as you did before.
Take the mark on the top, bottom and outside of the sleeve while it is still stapled.
Remove the shirt from the paper and highlight the pin marks to complete the design.

Step 8. Add seam allowance to each piece

Use a flexible ruler and pencil to carefully draw a new outline around each piece's existing outline. This will give you the seam allowance.

You can choose the seam allowance that feels right to you, but as a general rule a 1.5 cm allowance will be more than enough to work comfortably

Step 9. Mark the pieces

Identify each piece (back, front and sleeve). It also highlights the fold line of each part.

The fold line of the front and back will highlight the inside profile of the piece, right where you folded your original shirt.
The fold line of the sleeve will indicate its upper part.

Step 10. Cut and match the pieces

Carefully cut out each part of the pattern. When you're done, check that the pieces fit together.

Bringing the back and front of the pattern closer together, the shoulders and armholes should fit together.
When you bring the armholes close to both parts of the bodice, these measurements should also match (not including the seam allowance).

Part 2 of 4: Prepare the Fabric

Step 1. Choose an appropriate fabric

Many t-shirts are made from cotton jersey, but you could also choose a slightly stretch jersey to make the packing process easier.

As a general rule, the more the material used will be similar in manufacture and weight to that of the original shirt from which the pattern was made, the easier it will be to reproduce the fit

Step 2. Wash the fabric

Before doing anything else with the fabric, wash it as you usually do.

Washing the fabric first will prevent it from shrinking once it has been sewn, and will also fix its color. By doing this, the parts of the pattern you are going to cut and sew will be the right size

Step 3. Cut out the parts of the model

Fold the fabric in half and place the pattern on top. Pin the pieces together, mark the outlines and carefully cut them out.

Fold the fabric in half with the right side facing in and try to keep it flat when you arrange it.
Match the fold of the fabric with each "fold line" of the pattern parts.
When pinning the pattern pieces, be sure to catch both layers of the fabric. Mark the entire template with a tailor's pencil, then cut along the marking without removing the pattern.
After you have cut out the fabric, you can remove the pins and remove the pieces of the pattern.

Part 3 of 4: Prepare the Rib

Step 1. Cut a length of rib for the neck

Measure the entire neckline with a flexible ruler or tailor's tape measure. Subtract 10 cm from this measurement, then cut a piece of rib of this length.

Ribbed is a type of fabric with vertical ribs. Technically you could use a smooth fabric for your neckline, but ribbed is preferable as it is much more stretchy.
Cut the width of the ribbed fabric to double the final neck width.
The vertical ribs should run parallel to the width of the neck and perpendicular to its length.

Step 2. Fold and squeeze the rib

Fold the rib in half along its length, then press the crease firmly with the flat iron.

Make sure you do this on the right side of the fabric

Step 3. Sew the rib into a ring

Fold the rib in half its length. Sew the ends of the strip together leaving a 5-6mm seam allowance.

Make sure that the forehand stays on the front as you do this

Part 4 of 4: Sew the Shirt

Step 1. Pin the parts of the bodice together

Put the front and back of the bodice together, with the right side of the fabric on the inside. Only pin around the shoulders.

Step 2. Sew the shoulders

Straight stitch one shoulder. Cut the thread, then sew the other shoulder as well.

You can do this using a standard straight stitch on your sewing machine.
Follow the seam allowance marked on the pattern parts. If you followed this tutorial exactly, the margin should be 1.5cm.

Step 3. Pin the ribbed fabric on the neckline

Open the shirt and place it flat on your shoulders, with the wrong side facing you. Place the ribbed collar on the neckline, open it and pin it in place.

Put the wrong side of the neck over the neckline and hold it over the fabric of the shirt. Pin it in the middle of the back and front.
The collar will be smaller than the opening of the neckline, so you will need to pull it slightly as you pin the rest of the neckline. Try to keep the ribs evenly spaced.

Step 4. Sew the rib

Using a zigzag stitch, sew along the wrong side of the neck, leaving a 5-6mm seam allowance.

You must use a zigzag stitch instead of the straight stitch, otherwise the yarn will not be able to stretch along with the neck when you put on the finished garment by tucking it over the head.
Pull the ribbed fabric lightly with your hands as you sew it onto the shirt. Try to keep it taut enough not to crease the underlying fabric.

Step 5. Pin the sleeves onto the armholes

Open the shirt and place it flat on your shoulders, but turn it over so that you are facing the right side of the fabric. Place the sleeves right side down and pin them together.

Place the rounded part of the sleeve against the rounded part of the armhole. Pin the center of both curves together.
Gradually place and pin the rest of the curve of the sleeve to the rest of the curve of the armhole, working one side at a time.
Follow the process on both sleeves.

Step 6. Sew the sleeves

With the right sides in, sew straight stitch along both sleeves, joining them at the armholes in the process.

The seam allowance should match the one marked in your original pattern. If you followed this tutorial exactly it should be 1.5cm

Step 7. Sew both hips

Fold the shirt with the straight parts touching. Straight stitch the entire right side of the shirt, starting from the tip of the underarm seam to the bottom. When you're done, repeat everything on the left side.

Pin the sleeves and hips before sewing, otherwise the fabric may slip as you work.
Follow the seam allowance drawn on your original pattern. For this tutorial the margin is 1.5cm.

Step 8. Fold and sew a hem

With the straight parts of the fabric touching, fold the hem along the original seam allowance. Pin or iron the fold, then sew around the perimeter.

Make sure you only sew the hem. "Don't" sew the front and back together.
Many knits are fraying resistant, so a hem may not be needed. However, doing so will give the shirt a neater look.

Step 9. Fold and sew the hem of the sleeves

With the right sides touching, fold the opening allowance of each sleeve according to the original seam allowance. Pin or iron the fold, then sew around the perimeter of the opening.

As with the hem of the shirt, you will need to sew around the opening, avoiding to catch the front and back of the sleeve together.
You may want to avoid hemming the sleeves if the fabric is fraying-resistant, but if you do, they will look neater.