Sewing a coat requires basic sewing skills. It might sound complicated, but most coats are made up of a few easy-to-assemble pieces, as these garments are not designed to fit snugly. When choosing the style for your coat, prefer simple sleeves and a front that is as unadorned as possible. Avoid coats with a complicated or original trope line. The easiest coat to sew resembles a large "T", with or without a collar. The simplest coats - fleece or heavy wool - may not need a lining. The liners, however, are not complicated to put in and will make the coat more comfortable. In this article we will go through the first steps to tackle this project together.
Steps
Step 1. Invest in good cloth
Be prepared to spend at least ten euros per meter for good quality fabric. If you prefer to use wool instead, you may also find it at cheaper prices. Cotton denim or velvet is also suitable for most coats.
Step 2. Choose a good cover:
the cost for the type of fabric is variable. You might think about buying blouse or skirt fabric instead of basic linings, which are sold by most stores. A printed lining can add a pop of color to a solid color coat. Avoid stretch fabrics, knitted fabrics, and rayon.
Step 3. Choose a good interlining
Sewing instructions will often require the addition of a flexible interlining. It is a fabric that is applied by ironing and which serves to stiffen the fabric of the coat. It is typically a lightweight product that is applied to the back of many collars and lapels, but also to the front of many coats, to help keep their shape.
Step 4. Choose buttons you like
Have fun searching for vintage buttons in thrift shops and haberdashery to create a unique look for your coat.
Step 5. Look for different models
By searching online stores you can get an idea of the style that suits you best. Get someone to help you and write down your body measurements so that you can create a template that suits you.
Step 6. Make sure you assemble the coat by following the instructions
All the material you might need is readily available online. Read the template instructions carefully to know everything there is to know. The thread you choose for sewing should also be suitable for your coat. The needle should be larger than usual if the fabric you have chosen is thick. A size 14 needle will work for heavier fabric. If you want to add a double seam (like those on denim), you may want to consider making a topstitch with a twin needle. You can safely buy all the material you will need from home, in your free time.
Step 7. Buy a model
You can search for your model online, or go to a DIY or fabric store and look for catalogs. Most of the models on sale will show a photograph of the finished product, thus giving you the opportunity to evaluate which one comes closest to your expectations. Read the back of the envelope containing the pattern to find out more about the stitching. You will also find the measurements and the necessary fabric listed. The price of a model can range from 1 euro (in flea markets) to 15 euro (for a new model).
Step 8. Choose a model of difficulty that suits your current skills
If you are still a beginner, choose a model with few seams; starts with a "tunic" style. A lapel neck is already a more advanced design, while a simple neck can be a good place to start.
Step 9. Evaluate how difficult it might be to modify the template according to your wishes
To change the model without too much effort, try varying the colors of the collar and lapel, or changing the shape of the pockets.
Step 10. Choose the material
For a winter coat you will need an appropriate weight and texture, as well as other characteristics such as waterproofing.
Step 11. Open the envelope containing the template and spread it out over a large area
Read the instructions in full. Try to understand right away which are the most confusing, difficult or challenging parts. Compare these steps with your sewing manual - it may offer you some helpful tips to understand how to tackle the more difficult steps. Try to do all the necessary research before starting!
Step 12. Cut
Spread the pattern on the wool. Remember to make sure that the guidelines (arrows) follow the orientation of the wool. You can use heavy books to hold the pattern in place while arranging the fabric. Once the fabric is arranged as evenly as possible, pin it all together to keep the parts in place. Cut evenly. Use long scissors, not short or rounded scissors. Some people mark each cut piece with a card, applying it to the back side of the wool: this way you won't risk confusing or swapping the pieces when you need to sew. Lay the fabric on a large table or a smooth, clean surface. The model may require a central fold: apply it parallel to the selvedge.
Step 13. Cut out only the pieces of fabric you will need to use
Pin the pattern paper, leaving a seam allowance of approximately 15-20 cm. Measure the paper pattern onto a shirt or top. You will find yourself with a kind of jacket shown on the card. Have a friend check the measurements: are the shoulders okay? The back? Chest? The length? Arms? Pin each fold. Staple any tight spots and enlarge the area with additional paper. When the measurements are perfect, you will be ready to cut the fabric.
Step 14. Follow the template instructions
Secure the thread after each seam. Iron over the seams. Iron the surface by applying a cloth to the fabric and seam to protect the iron from any sticky residue. Do things calmly. Keep the material you are using in order by storing it in special cases. If you are tired, stop.
Step 15. Check your coat measurements
Once the body of the coat is complete, put it on to check the measurements. Let a friend check you too, just to be on the safe side. Length? Shoulders? Chest? Neck? If there is a need to shrink the bodice, do so before adding the sleeves. Reduce the seam of the sleeves to the same size that you reduced the body of the coat, in order to maintain the proportions. If your coat needs shoulder pad padding to achieve a more classic look, apply it right now.
Step 16. Iron
Do a final brush: place a linen cloth or damp fabric between the wool and the iron to iron your coat, or take it to the dry cleaners. Done! You just made your first coat.
Advice
- Sewing Machine: Make sure you have size 14 needles and wind more than one spool of the right thread, so you don't have to stop to reload. Use a loose type of stitch, especially when sewing thick fabric. Increase the stitch width so that the seams are visible. Stitches that are too tight may tear the fabric.
- Find a source of inspiration. Search the internet, look in stores and wherever you can look for models and find a style that suits you.
- Practice your sewing machine before starting this project. Try to learn how to sew a straight line leaving a straight seam allowance about 6 to 8 inches from the edge. If you are unable to make buttonholes, commission them to a competent tailor. This is certainly not a beginner's project, but any tailor who has had a bit of experience with sewing patterns should be able to make a simple coat.
- Try to always keep a good sewing manual on hand. You can use any manual you have at your disposal: in particular vintage publications may be useful.
- Make a scrapbook with all your ideas. This way you can always review them in case of need and think about how to develop them. Take some time to think and don't limit yourself. Add in anything that might help you find inspiration for your winter coat, including images from magazines, patterns, fabrics, and more. Once you have an idea of the type of coat you want to make, you will be ready to start getting busy.
- Shrink Fabric: Most cotton or wool fabrics will need to be shrunk before they can be used. You can send woolen fabrics to the laundry, or steam them with a good iron. Cotton can be pre-washed and then steamed.
- Buttons: if you have a good buttonhole hole, try to make some practice holes to reproduce the best size. In general, the buttonholes should be wider than the diameter of the buttons by about 3-6 mm. Be careful when cutting the buttonhole; loosen the upper thread, so that the buttonhole appears shinier and smoother. You can always have a tailor perform these steps, especially if you want to achieve a circular and defined effect.
- Lining: should be sewn and inserted into the hood after sewing the sleeves. It is not difficult, just follow the instructions. The padding will "cover" the neck seam and create a lapel. When you are almost done with your coat, create a hem for the lining and attach it to the wool. You can always use a ready-made hem to apply and iron, if you don't want to sew it (as is often done in professional clothing).
- Topstitching: To make a topstitch it is best to use double thread and large stitches. Place a spool of thread on the second spindle of your sewing machine and sew it together with the original thread. The use of a double thread will give the seam a heavier appearance, very suitable for wider seams. Experiment, so you can choose the stitch that best suits your seam. You can use the edge of the foot as a guide to set the highest seam distance from the edge. It is generally used to leave 3-6 mm from the edge.
