How to Grow Strawberries (with Pictures)

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-02 02:12

Growing strawberries in your own garden allows you to savor them as soon as they are picked. The fact that it is food, but also a decorative plant, means that it can be planted in the garden or in pots. Plus, if you have young children, you can show them how easy and rewarding growing strawberries is. There are various choices, so decide based on what is most comfortable for you and how much space you have available.

Steps

Part 1 of 7: Choosing the Variety

Step 1. Find out which strain is best for your needs

There are basically two types of plants: summer strawberries and perennial (re-flowering) ones. Plants for summer production can be divided into strawberries that will bloom in early summer, mid and late season. There are countless varieties within each species, and some are easy to find, so ask your local nursery. Here is a generic list of the varieties:

• Re-flowering or perennial: this is the best known plant, it lives for five years or more. It produces a good amount of fruit throughout the year (outdoors in temperate climates, in greenhouses in colder areas). These features make it perfect if you want continuous fruit production.
• The June variety: it gives its best from early summer to mid-season, depending on the planting period (summer plantations will produce fruit about two months after planting). Choose this variety if you want fruit to cook or freeze.
• Day-neutral plants: similar to remontant plants, they produce a more limited number of fruits throughout the year. They are ideal if you like to eat freshly picked fruit.

• Mountain Strawberries: This is a variety that bears very small fruit. Despite the size, the mountain strawberry is extremely tasty, so much so that it is perfect for jams.

  

  Step 2. Get the seedlings

  Most nurseries sell strawberry plants, but if you want a specific variety you can search for it online or maybe order it specifically from the nursery. Asking your nursery for advice is always the best way to know which strawberry varieties grow best in your area.

  It is best to buy seedlings when you intend to plant them. Leaving them in containers for too long can damage the roots, reducing the vigor of plants that will grow with difficulty once buried

  

  Step 3. Before purchasing, always examine the plants for any signs of disease or pests

  Strawberry leaves should be a nice bright green, free from spots, dark edges or sagging. The roots should be full-bodied and light in color.

  Consider purchasing disease resistant plants. Although this option is more expensive, these seedlings are known to tolerate various fungal diseases that strawberries are usually prone to

  

  Step 4. Decide where to plant them

  Strawberries do well both in the garden and in pots, as long as you provide them with good soil and fertilizer. It is up to you to evaluate the space at your disposal and the local temperature. For example, if you want to grow strawberries all year round in a cold climate, you will need to think about a mobile location that allows you to shelter them and you can again outdoors depending on the seasons.

  Strawberries grow well in most tropical climates

  Part 2 of 7: Anatomy of the Strawberry

  

  Step 1. A strawberry develops from the crown

  This is what the base of the plant looks like before the root system grows. This crown cannot be buried when planting strawberries. However, it should not be left too exposed; always check that it is right on the ground.

  

  Step 2. The seeds are located on the outside of the fruit

  This position is not usual, but it is what makes the strawberry peculiar. For reproduction through seeds, see the appropriate section below.

  Reproduction through seeds can be difficult and it will take at least a year for the new plant to bear fruit

  Part 3 of 7: Growing Strawberries in the Garden

  

  Step 1. Stop them at the right time

  It obviously depends on the variety you have chosen - consult the label or the vendor you buy them from.

  • The most productive varieties should preferably be planted in summer, usually in the second month of the season and, at the latest, within the first half of the last month.
  • Mountain strawberries should be planted between the second and third month of spring.
  • Remontant plants can benefit from autumn rather than winter planting, as the roots have more time to develop and adapt. This planting method is suitable for vegetable gardens and gardens in temperate areas.

  

  Step 2. Choose a warm and sunny spot

  Strawberries love direct sunlight with no shade. They don't mind even a light breeze. A strawberry seedling will bear fruit even in partial shade, but the harvest will never be as prolific as in the sun.

  

  Step 3. Dig the soil well

  Add plenty of compost to enrich the soil and remove weeds, including the roots.

  • Strawberries like fatty soil. If it's clay or sandy based, add compost of organic material. Mulch after planting to protect the soil around the crown and keep the strawberries clean.
  • If the soil is very acidic, add three quarters of dolomite per square meter of cultivated land before planting.

  

  Step 4. Remove the seedling from the container

  Place the roots in a bucket of water for about an hour. This helps to cushion the shock of the transplant and ensures the right humidity to the root system.

  

  Step 5. Make a hole in the ground

  Place the plant in the hole with the crown out.

  

  Step 6. Squeeze firmly but gently around the base of the seedling

  

  Step 7. Continue burying the plants with the same technique

  Between each plant there should be about 35-40 cm. If you make rows, leave about 90cm between each plant.

  

  Step 8. Water regularly

  Be careful not to give too much water: the superficial roots love water but must not drown. Keep the ground from drying out, but don't create a mud puddle! The right time to water is when the soil appears dry both on the surface and 1cm deep (stick a finger in the earth to check).

  Water the crown. Avoid getting the fruit wet or it may rot

  

  Step 9. Use a liquid fertilizer to feed the plants

  Pick one that you know is suitable for strawberries.

  If the fertilizer is high in nitrogen, the plant will not perform well: it will produce many leaves instead of fruit. If you want to use that type of fertilizer, reduce the dosage to a minimum

  

  Step 10. Remove the first flowers

  By doing this, you will give the plant a chance to grow more vigorously, producing a stronger root system.

  Better to remove the stolons too. If the plant produces them, you will see them grow in about a month. Runners drain the plant's energy, so remember to keep them in check until the strawberry is strong enough. Later you can let them grow to get new seedlings, but it is never advisable to leave more than one at a time or they will absorb every nourishment at the expense of strawberries

  

  Step 11. Check the plants regularly

  The first sign of the transformation of flowers into fruit is given by the appearance of small green strawberries. They will continue to grow until they become red and ripe.

  You may have to contend for strawberries with birds. They love them too and if you find out they're pecking them, you'll need to wear protection. You can use a gardening net to place on top of the seedlings; it will prevent most birds from eating the fruit. Otherwise, you can share strawberries with animals: if the birds are not too greedy, leave some strawberries for them; this solution tends to work best if there is something that scares them, such as a cat, a noisy element, or something that reflects sunlight, such as a CD

  

  Step 12. Collect strawberries

  The fruits are ready for harvest when they turn red. Grab a bowl or basket to pick the strawberries straight from the plant. Always collect them so that the stem remains intact: removing the cap should only be done when eating the fruit directly or when serving it.

  Before eating them, quickly wash the strawberries under fresh water

  

  Step 13. Continue caring for the seedlings

  Strawberries are quite vigorous and will still bear fruit for at least another five years before needing to be replaced. To help them survive the winter in temperate zones, remove weeds, straw and mulch, letting them grow out of control. If it snows, use the mobile container and move them indoors.

  Consider replacing them every two years if you run into plant-destroying viruses. Throw away the old specimens and plant new, healthier plants

  Part 4 of 7: Growing in pots

  Strawberries have shallow roots so they are easy to grow in pots, both outdoors and indoors. You can place the seedlings on a balcony, patio or in front of a sunny window. Although potted strawberries can be planted year-round, it is best to plant them in the spring, and this applies to both indoor and outdoor strawberries.

  

  Step 1. Choose a pot or container that has holes for drainage

  While you can buy special strawberry pots with multiple holes, it's not a must: strawberries can grow and bear fruit in any container that has good soil and is in a favorable position.

  Put pieces of earthenware or ceramic, small stones or pebbles on the bottom. They will serve for drainage

  

  Step 2. Fill two-thirds of the pot with the repotting mixture

  A strawberry pot should be at least 36 cm in diameter. Even if the roots are superficial, plants produce stolons that need space to stretch.

  • Strawberries thrive in soil pH between 5, 3 and 6, 5. It is a good idea to keep the soil rich by adding compost once a month.
  • If the pot is tall, long, and unglazed, add a quarter of peat moss to increase the container's ability to retain moisture.
  • If you choose a hanging basket, line it with sphagnum moss and use peaty potting soil. This too retains moisture. The sphagnum moss will allow the plant to grow on the sides of the pot as well, improving the appearance of the plant.

  

  Step 3. Water until water starts flowing out of the bottom of the pot

  Then make 5 or 6 mounds of soil about 25.4 mm high. If you leave about 1.5 cm between one mound and the other, the runners will have room to develop. Any accumulation of topsoil should be no wider than 76.2mm.

  

  Step 4. Gently remove the seedlings from the containers

  If necessary, cut the plastic to facilitate extraction. Carefully shake off any excess soil as you separate the roots with your fingers.

  

  Step 5. Place the roots in a bucket of water for about an hour

  This ensures the correct humidity to the root system.

  

  Step 6. Remove the seedlings from the water and place one on each mound of soil

  Arrange the roots so that they extend to the sides of the dirt build-up.

  

  Step 7. Fill the pot with more soil bringing it to crown level

  Stems grow from the crown, so don't bury it.

  

  Step 8. Water abundantly

  Keep pouring water gently until the pot begins to drain. Add more soil if necessary, as the water will deflate the air bubbles and reduce the level of the earth.

  Use a sprinkler or watering can to avoid holes in the soil

  

  Step 9. That's it

  Now you can place the pot in the garden (hanging or on the ground), or in a warm and sunny corner of the house.

  

  Step 10. Pick strawberries when it's time

  Wait until you have accumulated some fruit or are simply ripe. How many fruits you will get at each harvest depends on the number of plants you have placed and the size of the container you choose.

  Part 5 of 7: Strawberry Propagation by Seed

  Strawberry plants usually arise from other younger plants, but it is also possible to obtain them through seeds.

  

  Step 1. Purchase seeds from a seed shop or online

  

  Step 2. Fill a container and water thoroughly

  

  Step 3. Use your fingers to make small depressions of about 6 mm in the earth, leaving 1.5 cm between each hole

  

  Step 4. Put 3 seeds in each hole

  Since they are small seeds, some use tweezers to move them.

  

  Step 5. Cover the seeds

  Press the soil firmly to cover the hole. You can use your fingers. Do not compress too much as the soil may compact and the seeds should waste a lot of energy to emerge.

  

  Step 6. Use a plastic bag to cover the top of the miniature nursery

  This will keep it moist while the seeds germinate.

  

  Step 7. Place the mini nursery in a sunny spot

  Strawberries will benefit from the heat and light. During the winter, you can place the pot next to a radiator or other heat source.

  

  Step 8. Water the seeds

  Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Check it daily to make sure it doesn't dry out.

  

  Step 9. Remove the plastic cover when the seedlings appear

  Once they reach the plastic canopy, the seedlings will need space to continue growing, so don't keep them forced. The soil will dry faster when uncovered, so check the humidity daily.

  

  Step 10. Make a selection

  Cut or remove smaller plants. Leave about 1.5 cm between the remaining ones.

  Part 6 of 7: Propagation by Stolon

  The runners are those throats that arise from the mother plant, whose main purpose is to develop other seedlings where possible. They can be used to have new plants for the following season.

  

  Step 1. Fill a container with soil

  Place it near the plant that has runners.

  

  Step 2. Collect the stolon and place it in the vase

  Do not detach it from the mother plant and only cover a part of it; the other side will have to protrude from the pot to maintain proper balance.

  

  Step 3. Leave the stolon like this for at least a month

  During this period of time, water the stolon in pot as well as the mother plant regularly; this will keep the soil moist by encouraging root growth.

  

  Step 4. Separate the stolon from the sole

  After a month, cut it using clean or sterilized garden shears, so as to avoid grafting diseases on the cut.

  Part 7 of 7: Annual Strawberry Calendar

  Here are some basic tips for caring for strawberries throughout the year. You will need to make changes depending on the variety; if you live in the southern hemisphere, you will have to reverse the months.

  • Early winter (Dec-Jan): clean up the soil around the seedlings, remove everything that can lead to the development of fungi or mold. Check that there is no need to cover the plants.
  • Late Winter (Jan-Feb): Sow in seedbeds and keep the plants indoors.
  • Early spring (Mar-Apr): get ready for planting new strawberries. Fertilize existing plants.
  • Late spring (Apr-May): plant the remontant strawberries; they may need to be covered if there are still frosts, but on hot days you have to remove the sheets to encourage pollination. Around the end of April, plant early and late flowering strawberries. Remove the runners and the first flowers. Take precautions against birds.
  • Early summer (Jun-Jul): mulch. Water regularly and watch out for birds. Check for disease and root out diseased plants. Collect the first strawberries. Propagate the new plants.
  • Late Summer (Jul-Aug): Keep watering and propagating. Collect late and mid-flowering fruit and perennial varieties. Make jam.
  • Early autumn (Sept-Oct): remove old or ugly parts from the plants. Fertilize for the winter. Collect the fruit still in production (usually remontant).
  • Late autumn (Oct-Nov): arrange the remontant plants for winter.

  Advice

  • Strawberries are capable of self-pollinating if necessary. However, bees ensure better pollination, leading to the development of more uniform strawberries.
  • Make sure the pot is large enough for the plant. If you see roots sticking out of the drainage hole then you need to repot into a larger container.
  • If you are planting strawberries in a hanging basket or pot, remember to rotate the container often so that the back of the plant gets light as well.
  • If you believe that using the seeds of your own strawberries to produce other plants is a good idea, know that they will most likely grow small, tart fruits, not at all similar to the original ones. The best option is to buy the seeds in the store. But if you want to try, go for it and experiment.
  • Strawberries like birds as much as men. If your crops are plundered, protect them with nets; place a wide cage net on the pot, giving it a domed shape so as not to constrict the plant.
  • Collect the fruits as soon as they ripen; strawberries that remain on the ground for a long time will rot.
  • Most plants will stop producing fruit after 4-6 years. The aging time depends on the variety planted. When it seems to you that the fruit is starting to run out of fruit or is missing altogether, remove the plants.
  • Many strawberry seedlings benefit from a slow release fertilizer; you can buy potting compost already fertilized, or add a fertilizer separately.
  • Adding a few pinches of coffee will raise the nitrogen levels, which is necessary if the leaves appear a faded green.
  • Your strawberries don't have to be completely red to be ripe. The best indicator is taste. If they are sweet and firm, they are ready.

  Warnings

  • It is easy to give too much water to potted plants. If your seedlings don't survive, don't feel defeated. Buy more and try again next year!
  • Strawberries are prone to numerous diseases, including viruses and rot. Sometimes they can be saved with timely treatment, but in most cases it's easier to uproot and throw them away. Typical fungal diseases include botrytis and scab, ascomycetus is also a problem. Ask your trusted nurseryman for advice.