Give an old table a new look with a tile top. This project is best done on square or rectangular tables, unless you are skilled at cutting tiles following curves!
Steps
Step 1. Plan your work
In this regard, making a preliminary drawing will be very useful: it will allow you to create a pattern that you like and to determine how many tiles you will need and which colors. A squared paper is ideal or you could reproduce your design in a graphics program. Pop into your local tile shop and find the ones you like best, then design your own design. You will also need some tools and the material listed at the end of the article.
Step 2. Place the table on a tarp
Remove the old paint or, at least, scratch the table with sandpaper. With the thick grit sandpaper, scrape the paint well. The goal is to create a rough surface for the tile adhesive to set. Unlike when working with wood normally, achieving a smooth surface is NOT our goal!
- If you don't already have sandpaper at home, look for an abrasive brick at your local hardware store - it's a fairly stiff sponge block covered with various types of sandpaper. It works like a wonder!
- If, on the other hand, you already have sandpaper, roll it around an object similar to a blackboard eraser: it will allow you to grab it more easily and protect your hands. Even a small piece of wood is fine, but a wiper will be more manageable.
Step 3. Remove all sawdust dust with a damp cloth
Step 4. Now it's time to check the surface for any defects
If there are any large cracks or if the table is made of various freestanding pieces such as picnic tables, consider adding a base layer to cover these cracks. Because? The movements of the wood can cause the tiles to crack. Schluter Ditra produces just such a product, but it may not be available in as small quantities as you will need. Another option, which I personally would resort to in this project, is plain Masonite, about 0.5cm thick.
Step 5. Cut the Masonite to fit the table
If you don't have a proper saw for the project, measure the table and go to the hardware store to ask them to cut it for you.
Step 6. With the same tile adhesive you will use later, coat the tabletop
Place the Masonite on the glue, spread it well by exerting light pressure on the entire surface. A rolling pin is just the tool for you. Remove excess glue from the edges of the table.
Step 7. Take your design and lay it out on the floor:
this will allow you to touch up your drawing and get an idea of what the final result will look like. With a ruler and pencil draw a line to divide the Masonite in half along the center and then in half again so that you have 4 equal squares or rectangles.
Step 8. Now the hardest part of the project begins:
the arrangement, cutting and laying of the tiles. If you are less experienced, create a design that does not require cutting. You can play with the size of the tiles you buy and the width of the joints between the tiles. That said, you learn with experience, so if your design doesn't allow you to use only whole tiles, hire a tile saw to complete the project. Most tile shops rent them. For this project it is assumed that you have a symmetrical design that follows the two lines you drew and that does not require cutting.
Step 9. Some tilers prefer to spread the adhesive directly on the surface they are covering and lay the tiles over it
The adhesive is spread over a small area of the project and the tiles are laid directly on top of the adhesive. However, you must be careful not to spread the adhesive over an area that is too large otherwise it will risk drying out before being able to lay the tiles on it.
Step 10. An alternative approach is "buttering the tiles"
Sounds yummy, doesn't it ?! This technique involves taking some glue and applying it to the back of the tile as if you were spreading it with a butter knife, then you have to spread it all over the back of the tile with a notched trowel. With a smooth trowel, take some glue and put it on one edge of the tile, then take the notched trowel and pass it spreading the glue all over the tile, then passing it in the other direction. The goal is to obtain a smooth and evenly spread coating on the entire back of the tile. The thickness is important here: each tile must have a consistent thickness of glue to then obtain a straight surface, but it must not be too thin to avoid that it does not adhere. Put enough of them so that, after having done the two spreading steps with the notched trowel, you don't see anything on the back of the tile and that the total thickness of the adhesive exceeds the entire depth of the trowel teeth by a few millimeters.
Step 11. Lay the "buttered" tile on the Masonite in the center, where the lines intersect
With light pressure, move the tile horizontally so that it is well anchored to the Masonite. The buttered tile approach has two advantages: the glue does not dry out and you can always see the lines that will help you place the tiles.
Step 12. To help keep the tiles evenly spaced, place three tile spacers right after placing the first tile
These small plastic crosses need to be placed on the corner where the tile meets the two drawn lines and at the corners of the tile along the other sides. Position the spacers so that the lines run through the center. If you are making a project that does not involve grouting, simply align the edges of the tiles along the lines of the design.
Step 13. With that done, the road is all downhill
Continue to place the tiles following the instructions given in the "buttering" step and fix them firmly, gradually adding the spacers. You can also do it without the latter, but they make things much easier for you and make grout joints much more precise. At the edges of the table, be sure to remove all excess glue so the edges are clean and ready for the next molding.
Step 14. If your design includes a grout joint along the edge of the table, this is the right time to attach the molding to the edge
Before starting, let the tiles set. The tile adhesive instructions will tell you how long it will take to wait.
Step 15. For such a project use a simple rod
This is a flat piece of wood about 0.5cm thick and wide (or tall, if you prefer) enough to cover the entire edge of the table and the thickness of the tile. For example, if the tile is 1cm thick and your table 4cm, you will need a 5cm wide rod. If you find a ready-made 5.5 cm wide rod, that's fine too: let the excess run out towards the bottom of the table top.
Step 16. To attach the molding to the edge, you must first think about how you want the end result to be
The most accurate method is to cut a 45 ° corner as you see in the image. To do this, you need a miter box and a saw, and since it could be a complex (and slow) job, we use the simpler method.
Step 17. Measure the shorter side of the table and add the thickness of the molding
Carefully mark the measurement on the bar. Now take the marked rod and place it along the short edge of the table. Make sure the mark you made includes at least the thickness of the rod beyond the side edges of the table. It can be longer, but not shorter! When cutting the bar, be very careful. Start putting one of the finishing nails about 2.5 cm from the end and roughly halfway the width of the rod (check that it is under the tiles anyway, so you can hit them). Hold the bar along the short edge of the table so that the tile top of the table and the side of the bar are perfectly matched. Use masking tape to get the molding to hold that position. Push the nail halfway into the table.
Step 18. With a batten, check that the molding is aligned with the edge of the table along its entire length
Add another nail in the center of the molding, threading it halfway through. Check the position of the molding and insert a third nail at the other end of the molding. If everything is perfectly aligned, insert the nails all the way in. Hit softly with the hammer so you don't dent the molding. Add more nails so that they are all spaced about 6 inches apart. Try to follow an order in placing the nails as well. With the help of a punch, push the nails just beyond the surface of the molding; later you will fill these holes with wood putty.
Step 19. Next, repeat for the long side of the table
Match the end of the molding with the one you have already attached. While holding it in place (again, duct tape is ideal), measure it so that the molding has the same overhang at the opposite end. Mark the molding and cut it carefully. Remember: better a little too long, rather than too short. Cut the rod carefully, start inserting a nail and continue to stick them on the long side of the table as in the previous step. Repeat these operations for the two remaining sides as well.
Step 20. Finish this step by placing masking tape along the top edge of the molding
This will protect it as long as you put the putty on. The duct tape should not touch the area where you are going to put the grout, which is perfectly aligned with the inside edge of the molding. Fold the excess down along the outside face of the molding.
Step 21. Okay, now you are ready for the putty
Step number one is to remove the spacers between the tiles - they may have stuck. If they are, use a sharp, pointed object such as a hairpin or knife to grab and remove them. You can retrieve them for a future project.
Step 22. The grout can be sand-based or not, it depends on the width of the joints and the type of tiles you are using
Consult your tile dealer for more specific recommendations - there is a risk that, with a sand-based grout, a shiny tile will scratch, so consider your choice. In addition, sand-based putty can scratch the edge of the molding or stain it (hence the protective tape used in the previous step).
Step 23. Stir the grout until it reaches a rather thick consistency, like a batter
If it is too wet, it will have less strength; if it is too dry, you will not be able to put it inside the joints. When the grout has reached the right consistency, take a trowel and pour a good amount on the surface of the tiles and spread it so that it goes down into the joints with a spatula. Using the right pressure, hit the floor several times to make sure the joints fill up completely. Remove the excess.
Step 24. Then dampen a sponge and wash away as much of the excess grout as possible
Be careful that the sponge is not too wet as it may take away too much. Most tiles have a bevel along the corners where the smooth surface ends and the rough part begins. Keep the grout at that level, so just below the surface of the tile.
Step 25. Now you need to be patient and let the grout get pretty dry
After 15 minutes, take a damp (but not wet) sponge and, in a circular motion, start cleaning the surface of the tiles. This action is particularly important if you have added grout along the profiles between the tiles, in which case you will need to pay attention to how to pass the sponge. Apply a little more pressure along the joints to make them concave and reach the desired level in relation to the tiles.
Step 26. Rinse the sponge frequently
If you see that the grout gets a lot of dirt on the sponge when you scrub it, let it dry for another 5 minutes. This may be the most boring step since there will seem to be an infinite amount of residual putty. The goal is to get the grout joints where and how you like and remove most of the grout and residual dust.
Step 27. Let it dry for a few hours, then finish the cleaning process
Use a dry cloth to completely remove dust. Warning: the putty will give you the perfect timing directions to do all this, so follow those guidelines for a perfect result.
Step 28. Almost done
Once you've got your beautiful new tile surface, it's time to waterproof the joints. You can try spreading the waterproofing agent over the entire surface and spreading it with an ad hoc sponge or apply it carefully only on the grout. Your technique will depend on how you want to proceed. If you need to make the tiles waterproof, in addition to the joints, apply it first on the tiles to prevent it from stagnating on them for too long and staining them. It is not exactly a stain, but rather a nuance in the color since, if you pass it first on the joints, a quantity of product could reach the edges of the tile and it could then be difficult to homogenize everything.
Step 29. Apply as many layers as recommended on the package; more if for an outdoor table
Let it dry overnight.
Step 30. The last step is to finish the molding
Remove the protective tape and stick a strip on the tabletop instead: now you want to protect the grout and tiles from the paint you will apply on the molding. Glue it well on the edge between the stucco and the molding, so that you do not see the stucco. At the corners of the table, use the blade of a knife to get a straight end. Paint the molding carefully and let it dry.
Step 31. Check the corners where you matched the moldings
You should have a perfectly perpendicular corner with no excess molding. If this exceeds it slightly, wipe it with fine-grained sandpaper.
Step 32. If you used nails instead of the duct tape method, fill the nail holes with wood putty
With a putty knife, remove the excess. Some fillers are water based and can be cleaned with a simple damp cloth. Remember how you did to clean the joints: the cloth must not be too wet! Wipe with intermediate-grit sandpaper or a fine steel wool sponge. Wash the molding with a slightly damp cloth and let it dry.
Step 33. One aspect to consider here is the use of a combined paint and finish paint
On the market you will find various valid products. Such a product will spare you the final step, in which it is planned to pass a clear varnish over the regular varnish. If your goal is to use the table outside, DO NOT opt for this type of product. You can simply use a good wax paste to go over the varnish or an oil-based finishing varnish, such as flaxseed. It all depends on the effect you want to achieve or where you need to put the table.
34 Congratulations
Your new tiled table is ready to be admired! Put on it for a nice aperitif, invite some friends and show everyone your work. After all, what matters is the satisfaction of a job well done and appreciated, right ?!
35 Remember:
on a tiled surface nothing can bounce like it would with a wooden table, so the glasses will almost always break. A small price for an elegant tiled table!
